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Acetylene torch

Old 24-Aug-2003, 09:46 PM
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Acetylene torch

Does anyone have an Acetylene torch I can borrow?

I need to extract a broken bolt out of my rear control arm, the bolt that attaches to the anti sway bar in the rear.

I'm going to try to drill and use and extractor but I'd like to heat it up to ensure that it comes out.

anyone?!?!?
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Old 24-Aug-2003, 11:33 PM
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just use a blow torch, the acetylene torch will just cut the metal
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 12:20 AM
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Originally posted by mrchaos
just use a blow torch, the acetylene torch will just cut the metal

the ocy-acetylene will not blow a hole if you know what you are doing... if you get me a torch i can get the bolt out for you.... athough if you are asking for a torch i assume you know what you are doing.... and if not you probably will blow a hole...

pm me if you dont know what you are doing though....
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 12:22 AM
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you can use and oxy-acetylene torch is used for welding.... how much exygen you use is what makes it cut metal or not....
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 12:23 AM
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thanks rick, good to know

p.s exygen is good stuff, lol
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 01:37 AM
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Originally posted by mrchaos
thanks rick, good to know

p.s exygen is good stuff, lol

your welcome stephen.... i saw you at your work today.... you appeared busy though... i hope your not still driving what you were when i worked there
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 06:17 AM
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well. I used a oxygen/acetylene torch before, I used it in metal shop...

I don't have a torch but I was thinking of just getting the cheapy CT MPS gas/oxygen torch.

I know how t get armber flam and then blue, i was thinking I'd drill through the bolt, use some blue flame to heat it up, then use a bolt extractor.

What do you think??? It's been like 10 years since I've picked up a torch though...
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 10:58 AM
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question... ur talking about the end link bolt, right? Obviosuly your endlink is no longer any good... the nut is stuck on, and the endlink spins inside the joint. Using a nut splitter, you can just pop the nut, or you can use an angle grinder to cut it off. Or is the bolt seized inside a bushing?? You WILL burn your bushing with a torch, have new ones on hand...
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 02:14 PM
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Nah, rear left lower control arm, anti sway bar, attaches to a tear drop piece that in turn is bolted to the control arm. I'm looking to get the bolt that is attached to the control arm and that tear drop thingy.
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 02:43 PM
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http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM

what # item... I'm guessing bolt 32 into bushing 9?
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 08:39 PM
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yeap!

Any suggestions, it's in there REALLY tight
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Old 25-Aug-2003, 09:06 PM
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what i did for my lca bolts (although mine does not have a rear swap bar) but i get a rachet on bolt.... and take a 5 lbs mallot and just go nuts on it.... if its not seized it'll come out from that.... and if it is seazed then i send my luck to you
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Old 26-Aug-2003, 03:10 PM
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What I'm saying is there is a metal sleeve inside the bushing to which the bolt is seized to and is now broken inside of... instead of some crusty aftermarket arm, you pull yours, replace the bushing and the bolt with energy susp/OEM goods, and you are set for 1/2 the cost and OEM parts!
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Old 26-Aug-2003, 08:32 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
What I'm saying is there is a metal sleeve inside the bushing to which the bolt is seized to and is now broken inside of... instead of some crusty aftermarket arm, you pull yours, replace the bushing and the bolt with energy susp/OEM goods, and you are set for 1/2 the cost and OEM parts!
Ohh, nah, it's stuck in the arm part, not the bushing, the bolt goes through the bushing, then the end of the bolt goes into the arm. That's the part that's busted and stuck in there.
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Old 27-Aug-2003, 09:26 AM
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Ahhhh.... NOW I get it Torch the crap out of the area, cuz heat breaks down rust, then spray the crap down with WD40, leave for a day... come back, WD40 again, then drill for an EZ-out, and it'll come out!
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