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Old 06-Aug-2008, 01:26 PM
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Alright guys, ive done more research now im debating on which motor i would want to boost....

Keep in mind here, i will be changing internals for boost.. pistons, rods, rings, cams.. etc etc

these are my choices in motors so far

B18C (Type R)


H22A ( Type S)


K20A


K20Z1

Which motor would you guys see fit for a dirty boost.. Im trying to start off with a motor that is already generally fast.. Nice HP and torque. I also have been reading alot of posts, and i noticed that alot of ppl have B16's boosted.. is there a specific reason for it?


Another question i have is
when changing the internals for either high compression or low compression.. Is it true that with High compression you don't get turbo lag, but you kill the life span of the motor faster... and with Low compression you get the turbo lag, but you saving the life span of the motor.. fact or fiction gentlemen?

sorry if it sounds stupid, but im gettin wayy to many 50/50 answers regarding this..

Thanks


**edit:

i just read a post from Zeeman :

well, if you change the cams, you NEED to tune right away.
I'm all about the turbo's b/c i'm all about results. I spent so much money building my engine for n/a to make much less than 200whp. At 9.5psi on my b16 i made 276whp off just a street tune. The turbo kit costs less than building my engine for n/a, thats the part that really gets me.
**

interesting.. so its not worth the $$ to upgrade the motor itself, then rather boosting the motor?... but obviously you would have to upgrade some internals to make it ready for boost.

Last edited by iTaLiAn_vIrUs; 06-Aug-2008 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 03:01 PM
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if its your first boosted setup boost the stock engine, its a lot cheaper to replace than a fully built one. Plus that way you're leaving yourself some room to upgrade, b/c my friend boost is very addicting and you'll always want more. If you start off with a fully built engine and a GT35R turbo running 30psi where do you go from there? Now, if you start off with a t3/t4 57trim running 8psi on a stock engine you can turn up the boost to 12psi, then build the engine and turn up the boost even more, then you can still up the boost a little more.

I see all too often people spend $7000 building their engine for boost and only make 300-350whp. Whats the point, just boost the stock engine, if it blows buy another one. $7000 will get you a lot of new engines. If you blow up 2 then i'd maybe consider either finding a new tuner, or building the block.

Higher compression will help spool the turbo faster and will have better off-boost response, at the cost of being closer to danger and having almost no room for error in tuning. Lower compression is safer and will give you the ability to make more power (from running more boost) and will give you a little more room for error with regards to tuning.
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by weirtech
that turbo kit does not fit all those engines, there is a different kit for each engine. that is just a list of applications they offer. if you look at the bottom of the edelbrock link you provided, you will see different part #'s for different turbo setups meant for different motors/chassis. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.
if he doesn't wanna do the research or listen to you, **** it. let him find out for himself.
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 03:25 PM
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btw, what a ridiculous list of engines to boost, esp the H22A lawlz.

I'd keep it simple B18B or B20 block, forged pistons and rods, ARP hardware, mild P&P on the head, stock cams, stock intake manifold, maybe a bigger throttle body. i'd even keep the LS gearbox but with a quaife LSD. i'd spend the money on beefier axles, mounts, and a full race manifold, or at least like a lovefab or sfp.

you could build a B16A stock internals, but you'd be better off getting the B18B for cheap and putting in forged internals to handle more cylinder pressure.
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 04:11 PM
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$600 ebay turbokit with zeemans tune almost pushing 300,000kms on a stock d16y8 and im running 8psi im not far from 200hp if im not almost. 7 g's seems to be a waste unless your hardcore racing, but if you were you would most likely be sponsored
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by zeeman
if its your first boosted setup boost the stock engine, its a lot cheaper to replace than a fully built one. Plus that way you're leaving yourself some room to upgrade, b/c my friend boost is very addicting and you'll always want more. If you start off with a fully built engine and a GT35R turbo running 30psi where do you go from there? Now, if you start off with a t3/t4 57trim running 8psi on a stock engine you can turn up the boost to 12psi, then build the engine and turn up the boost even more, then you can still up the boost a little more.

I see all too often people spend $7000 building their engine for boost and only make 300-350whp. Whats the point, just boost the stock engine, if it blows buy another one. $7000 will get you a lot of new engines. If you blow up 2 then i'd maybe consider either finding a new tuner, or building the block.

Higher compression will help spool the turbo faster and will have better off-boost response, at the cost of being closer to danger and having almost no room for error in tuning. Lower compression is safer and will give you the ability to make more power (from running more boost) and will give you a little more room for error with regards to tuning.

hmm alright fair enough i see what you saying..

I just assumed that it would be a waste of $$ to change the internals on a stock D16, to get it ready for boost.. but i get what your saying..


yea but Tyson, did you have to change any of your stock internals?.. or just bolt up and tune?

alot of people dont like the ebay turbos, hows it running for you?


Relax bbarbulo, im doing the research & ive been looking around, im just trying to get different opinions on the topic.

&& what wrong with those engines? they are already producing decent power as is.
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Old 06-Aug-2008, 10:43 PM
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if i were to start over id boost a gsr in stock form, then build it
and have you set goals or budget yet??
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by iTaLiAn_vIrUs
Relax bbarbulo, im doing the research & ive been looking around, im just trying to get different opinions on the topic.

&& what wrong with those engines? they are already producing decent power as is.
really? this is what you call research?

ok well I recommend a T78 on a stock bottom end H22A, minimum 1 bar, with a Vortech 1:1 FRP for fuel management. The H22A already offers big 345cc injectors, so you don't have to worry about that. invest in a really shiny intercooler, prolly like a Greddy or something, it'll make all the difference to this engine. also make sure you get some adjustable cam gears and dial yourself in some more overlap to help the T78 reach full potentail. then just sit back and wait for the ringlands to come out.
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 09:55 AM
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yes 14.5psi will work great on a h22, especially without any sort of ignition timing retard and just a FMU (i'd recommend at least a 10:1 though, the stock FPR is 1:1)....NOT!

ur an *** B...lol.

Tyson's engine was bone-stock with pretty high km's with a cheap turbo kit and when we tuned it he brought like 3 of his boyfriends along for the ride, yet the car still pulled nice....especially for how ghey he is....haha
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 12:15 PM
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pretty good with all stock internals eh.. im assuming he didnt get that much of a hp increase maybe 30-50 hp ? turbo pending that is.. and im assuming a cheap turbo is not the way to start off ;s.. cheap meaning ebay turbo lol


akira, i know its gonna cost some coin, thats cool, you gotta pay to play ive understood that part, everyone keeps telling me that.. && since u guys are all ripping me apart with this.. i figured i would take ur advice and start off slow so i can enjoy it then go from there...


yeahh zee bbarulo likes to bust ***** ive noticed lol
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 12:51 PM
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8 psi on any engine will be at least 50whp....typically 1psi = 10whp.

If you're engine is built for it, or you pick the perfect combo for your application, you can get more WHP per PSI....a nice exhaust manifold and 3" exhaust will help with this.
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 02:13 PM
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lol zee ur a man i can count on, and i appreciate it.

i get what your saying, i already have the exhaust, i need the manifold.. i think if im gonna boost this d series
i think it would be a good investment to get some Vitara Pistons and some forged H-beam rods. & new rings...

this weekend is the compression test, that will let me know if its worth doing or not..


if all is good, do you guys recommend an ebay turbo as a starter turbo.. or invest the $$ now in a good turbo?... keep in mind guys, a motor swap ( motors listed above) will be done later on.. thats when i plan on getting more serious & in-depth (internals)..

Now i just wanna get used to the feeling of a turbo then work from there.
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 03:40 PM
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Besides the h22....every engine you listed cost a **** load just for the swap...Let alone the engine.
And your worrying about saving money on a e-gay turbo?
I don't understand?
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zeeman

Tyson's engine was bone-stock with pretty high km's with a cheap turbo kit and when we tuned it he brought like 3 of his boyfriends along for the ride, yet the car still pulled nice....especially for how ghey he is....haha

you loved being in the car you didn't want to get out...more like get off haha
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by T-MacK
Besides the h22....every engine you listed cost a **** load just for the swap...Let alone the engine.
And your worrying about saving money on a e-gay turbo?
I don't understand?
lol whoa whoa who said it was gonna cost a **** load?
& people have used those turbo's with no problems, it has to be tuned right.
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by iTaLiAn_vIrUs
lol whoa whoa who said it was gonna cost a **** load?
& people have used those turbo's with no problems, it has to be tuned right.
First off when did I trash e-gay turbos??
Second....unless your car jacking for engines....a type-r swap for instance done right is going to cost a'lot of money. And a k swap is going to be double that easily.
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Old 07-Aug-2008, 11:09 PM
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just buy an ebay kit so you can learn your going about this wrong, then when you smarten up and get serious let us know.
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Old 08-Aug-2008, 10:10 AM
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my bad T-mack i thought u were bashing them, and second thing.. my buddie(s) have shops so the dont charge me an arm and a leg for a motor. but i know what you mean.. from any place like teknotik or whatnot its gonna be expensive


lol akira hahaha, alright alright i get you point
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Old 08-Aug-2008, 12:45 PM
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^^Its all good.
I just know mu buddy has dropped about 5'gs this past month treying to do his type-r swap. Thats all I was saying.Good luck with everything.
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Old 08-Aug-2008, 10:36 PM
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HOLY **** thats alot man,, damnn 5'gs.. ;s

is that what he paid for the motor? or thats with labor as well?


AHHHHHHHHHH dammit guys sooo many decisions.. ;s..

question though, do you guys know what brand of inter cooler for hondas that does not involve cutting the rebar ??
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