suno_eg

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking at a pair of Skunk2 Tuner Series cams ($650), it's a lot of money to spend.
I want to know from people who have had aftermarket cams if it's worth the money for the amount of HP and TQ you get out of them.
My plans:
Built B20vtec turbo or B16a2 turbo making 250+ HP driven daily. The more TQ I can get the better.
Also: Will I need adjustable cam gears for the new cams?

Thanks!

sol_searchin

dont waste your money spend the 650 into reinforcing the block and then turn up the boost

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

ya, you definately don't need to build the engine to make 250whp. The last boosted b20vtec I tuned with a 2.5" exhaust and a stock block made 281whp @ 8psi on Neptune. My turbo b16 with 2.5" exhaust made 250whp @ 8psi on Neptune.

I'm selling a set of crane stage 2 cams that I used in my car for years (85-90,000kms). They're in incredible condition for the use I got out of them and made 167.7whp on my b16 before I boosted it and the torque curve was flat as hell and didn't drop until just after 8000rpms, with a nice little jump in power @ 6000rpms when vtec engaged.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...sDynosheet.jpg

I only want $250 for them and they're already out of my car (previous buyer backed out).

FPMotorsports

Well im gonna shed some light on this topic.

Skunk2 Cams = Waste of Money.... unless u want to pay $300 for a skunk2 sticker! And in that case let me know...i'll sell u one for a deal

Im sure u all know of the brand called OBX!

Well obx = Skunk2! ( In regards to camshaft )

Skunk2 Stage 1 Tunner series = Obx Stage 1
Skunk2 Stage 2 Tunner series = Obx Stage 2
Skunke Stage 3 Tunner series = Obx Stage 3

Now what is the difference? ***PRICE***

OBX is about HALF OFF!

I have seen numerous Obx cams and Skunk2's there identical! Down to the spec!
Also saw one car with Obx stage 2's upgrade via his smart mechanics suggestion to Skunk2 " the real deal " and made same whp/wtq! He wasnt too pleased... his mech said " your motor is hurt right now, u put x amount of kms on it...with the obx u were making less then the original dyno" I just laughed!

Also... saw one guy take out skunk2 stage 2's for obx's and made same power!

Gee... I was shocked! When there exactly the same what would u expect?

Also... I have used (2) obx L.S.D's!
First was the original... 2nd was then gen2.
Awsome L.S.D! Gen2 = Quaifee!

kingjames1983

I have stage 2 Cat Cams and I love them ... plus I got the valvetrain upgrade and the cams for the price of skunk cams

Mashimaro

i'm running Toda B cams and valvetrain (minus valves) on an ITR motor.

i'll let you know rite now that N/A is expensive in terms of hp/$ ratio. and it helps to have someone know how to properly tune a cam setup once installed (ie: someone who knows how to measure v2v and p2v clearance, can degree the cams in)

Mugen Power

forget obx. first off its tuner series. secondly, blox is the company u need to contact in regards to s2 cams. they've copied every s2 profile, a jun profile and a few others. i would never run obx anything in any of my motors/trannies etc. used cams can be found for cheap and new blox's are about $450

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Thats not part of tuning....thats part of the install.
But i would also HIGHLY recommend having someone degree the cams in, to save any guess work for your tuner.

T-MacK

Skunk2 is B:S! Bottomline.
If you can get a set of Crane Cams of Zeeman for $250...Do It!
Thats a good deal and Crane has some decent cams.....I used to use the Sohc Crane cam and it was the baddest little cam at the time before they dis-continued it.
If you build your bottom end then you can boost all you want without the worries.

LEITNER

why spend the money on cams when you can crank the boost? my friend has a stock b16 in a 5th gen and ran it at 10psi for 70,000kms...making 290whp 220wtq. STOCK B16 FTW

when it blows you use the $650 and by another b16.

Mashimaro

i consider it to be part of the tuning side since you can't turn the cam gears without knowing how far they can go before smacking valves together (ie: tuner advances or retards the gears, but doesn't know how far they can go before going below 'safe' clearances).

almost anyone can install the cams, not everyone knows how to measure it out along with degreeing them in to find out where 0 would be at.

lack of knowledge can destroy motors, and not knowing how far the gears can turn is lack of knowledge for a tuner. that's just my opinion of course and i hope it makes sense!

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

so tuners are supposed to bring cam degree kits/dial indicators with them to tune a car? That would greatly increase the cost of tuning...although, would be cheaper than having to rebuild b/c ur tuner went crazy with the cam gears.

Thats something your machinist will do (if you're using a reputable guy, i.e. gord bush) when putting the engine together. Claying the engine is usually done when assembling the engine.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

I'm with LEITNER though building the head for a boosted setup is sort of a waste. Spend that money on a good boost controller (or get tuned with Neptune and use a boost solenoid and have Neptune and the OEM ecu control boost incredibly well) or a 3" exhaust.