Thoughts on this break in method?
#1
Thoughts on this break in method?
Oh and do you believe in this engine break in ?
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely: Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Do you agree with the above method of breaking in the engine?
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely: Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Do you agree with the above method of breaking in the engine?
#2
I was told:
Drive normal for 500km with non detergant(sp?) oil. (non synthetic as well) Then change with a normal, non synthetic. Then change at 1000km with your regular oil.
2 tuners and a machine shop told me that. only difference was the non detergant I read online. The shops never said that. and use 10w40 because I'm turbo'd.
Drive normal for 500km with non detergant(sp?) oil. (non synthetic as well) Then change with a normal, non synthetic. Then change at 1000km with your regular oil.
2 tuners and a machine shop told me that. only difference was the non detergant I read online. The shops never said that. and use 10w40 because I'm turbo'd.
#3
I agree with the oil choice. Dino oil for break in, synthetic after first 2-4 oil changes. Really, you can switch to synthetic anytime when the engine is that new.
on the Lude forums, they were saying many of the ludes that were driven hard during break in, were the engines burning loads of oil when it got older. They also documented that those driven hard before break in, lose more power than those which were broken in with the driving light method.
on the Lude forums, they were saying many of the ludes that were driven hard during break in, were the engines burning loads of oil when it got older. They also documented that those driven hard before break in, lose more power than those which were broken in with the driving light method.
#4
For engine break in, it is best to use an oil with zinc. Zinc has been removed from most gasoline engine oils.
For engine rebuilding, I usually recommend GM EOS (contains a lot of zinc, therefore will protect better on break-in).
Or use a rotella 15w40 or other diesel oils with a CI "SL" rating on it. These products contain zinc and will provide great protection. My only concern with diesel oils would be emissions and the viscosity, but assuming you don't beat the hell out of the engine on break-in, it should be fine.
My personal favourite would be adding an engine break-in addictive. These products contain zinc, typically in the high ppm category.
Also, a side-note.. you shouldn't really be TOO concerned with are OHC engines because we do not use lifters. The main concern for machinist are flat tappet lifters ruining the lobes on camshafts.
For engine rebuilding, I usually recommend GM EOS (contains a lot of zinc, therefore will protect better on break-in).
Or use a rotella 15w40 or other diesel oils with a CI "SL" rating on it. These products contain zinc and will provide great protection. My only concern with diesel oils would be emissions and the viscosity, but assuming you don't beat the hell out of the engine on break-in, it should be fine.
My personal favourite would be adding an engine break-in addictive. These products contain zinc, typically in the high ppm category.
Also, a side-note.. you shouldn't really be TOO concerned with are OHC engines because we do not use lifters. The main concern for machinist are flat tappet lifters ruining the lobes on camshafts.
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