SOHC vs. DOHC
#1
SOHC vs. DOHC
Hey
So just deciding which route I'll be going with my build, and deciding to go with either a D series or B series engine. The power gain I'm looking for is a boosted 240-260 whp, which HAS to be fuel efficient and VTEC.
So far I've read that the DOHC has 1 cam for intake valves and 1 cam for exhaust valves which makes tuning better. But is expensive to fix?
I haven't fully read into this but would like some input from people here with experience in these honda engines as the site's I'm gathering info from are non-honda sites (SOHC vs DOHC - evolutionm.net).
So does anyone run a DOHC from these engines? (Don't think D series has DOHC right?) How's the maintenance costs? Fuel efficiency? Weight? For those that run SOHC. How is the tunability?
So just deciding which route I'll be going with my build, and deciding to go with either a D series or B series engine. The power gain I'm looking for is a boosted 240-260 whp, which HAS to be fuel efficient and VTEC.
So far I've read that the DOHC has 1 cam for intake valves and 1 cam for exhaust valves which makes tuning better. But is expensive to fix?
I haven't fully read into this but would like some input from people here with experience in these honda engines as the site's I'm gathering info from are non-honda sites (SOHC vs DOHC - evolutionm.net).
So does anyone run a DOHC from these engines? (Don't think D series has DOHC right?) How's the maintenance costs? Fuel efficiency? Weight? For those that run SOHC. How is the tunability?
#3
fuel efficient d or b is that even possible? ppl say if you have a d series just driving at 110km-120km on the highway your boosting?
but Ive always love the under dog even since I got my civic so i say sohc + turbo = hella sick :P
but Ive always love the under dog even since I got my civic so i say sohc + turbo = hella sick :P
#5
well maybe you can do what im also thinking of doing..... but still kinda undecided cuz honda is like lego and its sometimes tempting to do one thing... then your mind changes... its like having some "honda bipolar" issue lol... but yea maybe go for a full b16 swap.... then drop the bottom end out and replace it with an LS bottom end and tune or boost it? ls sleeves is your advantage here... if you want to boost..
#6
This is a really good side for turbo d engines
Turbo D16 • Index page
It is very possible to run 240 -260 whp in a d series engine.... However I believe you may have to upgrade the internals ( piston and rods) to make it more reliable and run more boost
With a b series swap and turbo , its a lot easier to run 240-300 whp , without even upgrading the internals
The main difference is that a d series swap will be a lot more expensive to start with ( assuming you have a d series engine)
The majority of people that have a d series engine and a somewhat low budget prefer to turbo their d series. However a lot of people dont mind spending the extra cash and pay for a b series swap plus the cost to turbo it
Since you are looking for fuel efficiency and you seem to be a noob (like many of us) when it comes to turbo engines. I would say start at the bottom and turbo your d series engine ( easier , cheaper ) ... Just make sure you get it tune and make sure to buy a decent turbo kit
Running 240 -280 whp in stock internals may be a little hard but with the right turbo kit and tune , and a healthy engine , you should be able to do it ...
Personally I dont even think you need 240 -280 whp in a little civic .. 220 should be more than enough to start with
Dont quote me on this but i do believe you can use some parts of the d series turbo kit on a b series swap ( if you decide to do it later)
And if you are looking for fuel efficiency , you are going to have a boost controller ( i believe for what i read) so that your turbo spins at higher rpms ... ( i m sure gearheads can confirm this)
Turbo D16 • Index page
It is very possible to run 240 -260 whp in a d series engine.... However I believe you may have to upgrade the internals ( piston and rods) to make it more reliable and run more boost
With a b series swap and turbo , its a lot easier to run 240-300 whp , without even upgrading the internals
The main difference is that a d series swap will be a lot more expensive to start with ( assuming you have a d series engine)
The majority of people that have a d series engine and a somewhat low budget prefer to turbo their d series. However a lot of people dont mind spending the extra cash and pay for a b series swap plus the cost to turbo it
Since you are looking for fuel efficiency and you seem to be a noob (like many of us) when it comes to turbo engines. I would say start at the bottom and turbo your d series engine ( easier , cheaper ) ... Just make sure you get it tune and make sure to buy a decent turbo kit
Running 240 -280 whp in stock internals may be a little hard but with the right turbo kit and tune , and a healthy engine , you should be able to do it ...
Personally I dont even think you need 240 -280 whp in a little civic .. 220 should be more than enough to start with
Dont quote me on this but i do believe you can use some parts of the d series turbo kit on a b series swap ( if you decide to do it later)
And if you are looking for fuel efficiency , you are going to have a boost controller ( i believe for what i read) so that your turbo spins at higher rpms ... ( i m sure gearheads can confirm this)
#7
When it comes to tunability, the only difference between SOHC and DOHC is that there's an extra fuel/ignition table to tune for the VTEC cam, no big deal to an experienced tuner.
As for fuel efficiency, just because you're running bigger injectors and a turbo doesn't mean you can't be fuel efficient. If you're cruising in the low-end of the RPM range and you're in vacuum, you'll use no more fuel than an unboosted engine assuming you have a good tune and a properly sized turbo.
That said, if you run a small turbo, it's going to spool easily and you might get it spooling at highway speeds and that's going to eat some extra fuel. For every additional 5 PSI of boost or so, you're using 30% additional fuel to maintain optimal air/fuel ratio.
If you want fuel efficiency, stick with a 1.6L engine (B16 will net you a powerful top end with a long enough power band to boost nicely... D16 you'll want to boost to start earlier and that'll eat up fuel). Most importantly, figure out where you want to see boost kick in (maybe start building at 3500-4000 and 5000rpm - 7000rpm is top efficiency range... your needs may vary) and base your turbo size on that. Asking around is probably a lot easier than figuring out AR trims and cold-side/hot-side sizings since there's plenty around running very streetable setups.
Good luck
As for fuel efficiency, just because you're running bigger injectors and a turbo doesn't mean you can't be fuel efficient. If you're cruising in the low-end of the RPM range and you're in vacuum, you'll use no more fuel than an unboosted engine assuming you have a good tune and a properly sized turbo.
That said, if you run a small turbo, it's going to spool easily and you might get it spooling at highway speeds and that's going to eat some extra fuel. For every additional 5 PSI of boost or so, you're using 30% additional fuel to maintain optimal air/fuel ratio.
If you want fuel efficiency, stick with a 1.6L engine (B16 will net you a powerful top end with a long enough power band to boost nicely... D16 you'll want to boost to start earlier and that'll eat up fuel). Most importantly, figure out where you want to see boost kick in (maybe start building at 3500-4000 and 5000rpm - 7000rpm is top efficiency range... your needs may vary) and base your turbo size on that. Asking around is probably a lot easier than figuring out AR trims and cold-side/hot-side sizings since there's plenty around running very streetable setups.
Good luck
#8
Tuneability is not determined by the engine itself but by the engine management system (ems), and the ability of a knowledgeable tuner to properly and safely tune the engine.
Yes, the vtec system adds a little more complexity when tuning, but any high quality ems and knowledgeable tuner shouldn't have much trouble with it.
The reliability/maintenance of either engine, SOHC or DOHC, will be determined by the quality of the components/parts used, how well matched they are with the setup and if they were properly installed. The number of cams has no effect on maintenance. It's extremely rare to ever have an issue with the valve train of a honda.
It should be an important step to ensure that all components and parts of the engine are ready for boost, whether they are stock or aftermarket.
240-260whp on a d-series will require aftermarket internal components to be reliable and make that much power. However, those numbers are very much achievable, reliably, with stock internals with the B18A1/B1 (LS), B16A1/A2, B18C1, B18C/C5 engines, provided they are in very good working condition and are tuned properly.
Drive-ability and fuel efficiency are not unheard of for turbo'd engines. Turbos can be very efficient and actually help fuel consumption in certain situations by increasing volumetric efficiency. If this is going to be a street car, I suggest matching a turbo that will give you full boost by about 3500rpm. On the highway, you should be just under that rpm range and not be boosting while cruising at 110-120kph. Choosing the right turbo can be tricky. Research research research!
The choice is yours. Drive-ability, tuneability and reliability is not purely determined by the engine type itself. So don't get hung up on which engine is better. Figure out a budget and how that will fit in with your power goal. Also consider what the car will be used for (track, street...?).
And yes, all d-series engines are SOHC except the ZC DOHC (non-vtec). Some d-series have vtec and some don't. And all b-series engines are DOHC. The B18A1/B1 (LS) and B20B/Z are non-vtec DOHC engines, the rest all have vtec. The B16A1/A2, B18C1/C/C5 come stock with crank bearing girdles giving them the strongest bottom ends of all the b-series engines.
Yes, the vtec system adds a little more complexity when tuning, but any high quality ems and knowledgeable tuner shouldn't have much trouble with it.
The reliability/maintenance of either engine, SOHC or DOHC, will be determined by the quality of the components/parts used, how well matched they are with the setup and if they were properly installed. The number of cams has no effect on maintenance. It's extremely rare to ever have an issue with the valve train of a honda.
It should be an important step to ensure that all components and parts of the engine are ready for boost, whether they are stock or aftermarket.
240-260whp on a d-series will require aftermarket internal components to be reliable and make that much power. However, those numbers are very much achievable, reliably, with stock internals with the B18A1/B1 (LS), B16A1/A2, B18C1, B18C/C5 engines, provided they are in very good working condition and are tuned properly.
Drive-ability and fuel efficiency are not unheard of for turbo'd engines. Turbos can be very efficient and actually help fuel consumption in certain situations by increasing volumetric efficiency. If this is going to be a street car, I suggest matching a turbo that will give you full boost by about 3500rpm. On the highway, you should be just under that rpm range and not be boosting while cruising at 110-120kph. Choosing the right turbo can be tricky. Research research research!
The choice is yours. Drive-ability, tuneability and reliability is not purely determined by the engine type itself. So don't get hung up on which engine is better. Figure out a budget and how that will fit in with your power goal. Also consider what the car will be used for (track, street...?).
And yes, all d-series engines are SOHC except the ZC DOHC (non-vtec). Some d-series have vtec and some don't. And all b-series engines are DOHC. The B18A1/B1 (LS) and B20B/Z are non-vtec DOHC engines, the rest all have vtec. The B16A1/A2, B18C1/C/C5 come stock with crank bearing girdles giving them the strongest bottom ends of all the b-series engines.
Last edited by MPR; 04-Jul-2010 at 02:38 PM.
#9
I would definitely say go Turbo D. If i had a civic with a d-series i would turbo that over a b any day.
This has everything you need for your turbo D series to reach your goals.
FJ Distributors
Will cost about the same if not less than a b-series swap but the D will be capable of more and will be freshly rebuild and not beat like the b-series you'll buy.
Just my opinion
This has everything you need for your turbo D series to reach your goals.
FJ Distributors
Will cost about the same if not less than a b-series swap but the D will be capable of more and will be freshly rebuild and not beat like the b-series you'll buy.
Just my opinion
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