Swapping 1.6 SOHC Vtec motor for JDM 1.5 SOHC motor.. HELP
#1
Swapping 1.6 SOHC Vtec motor for JDM 1.5 SOHC motor.. HELP
Hey guys ... not sure if this is even in the right forum... but its JDM related atleast... Can you help me...
My D16Y8 lost compression in 1 cylinder... with 200,000 KM and it burning oil.. I cant see just repairing the top end... it seems pointless ... Ive found a Japanese 1.5 SOHC Vtec motor... and heard there are some minor modifications that need to be done to make this fit..
1) Intake Manifold Modifications --- Can someone elaborate more on this for me
2) The Vtec Solenoid.--- They said I would need to remove my Vtech solenoid and replace the one in the other motor because it was different... --- Can someone elaborate on this.. and what special tools if any i would need to do this
3) Blocking the whole for the EGR valve that this motor has but we dont need here... -- Self explanitory.. Dont need any info on this...
but if anyone knows of ANYTHING else that needs to be done.. or any tricks... or special tools that are needed PLEASE dont hesitate to respond... any and all information will be greatfully appreciated
also Any information on dealings with Tiger Japanese and their motors would be great
Thanks in advance
Dave
My D16Y8 lost compression in 1 cylinder... with 200,000 KM and it burning oil.. I cant see just repairing the top end... it seems pointless ... Ive found a Japanese 1.5 SOHC Vtec motor... and heard there are some minor modifications that need to be done to make this fit..
1) Intake Manifold Modifications --- Can someone elaborate more on this for me
2) The Vtec Solenoid.--- They said I would need to remove my Vtech solenoid and replace the one in the other motor because it was different... --- Can someone elaborate on this.. and what special tools if any i would need to do this
3) Blocking the whole for the EGR valve that this motor has but we dont need here... -- Self explanitory.. Dont need any info on this...
but if anyone knows of ANYTHING else that needs to be done.. or any tricks... or special tools that are needed PLEASE dont hesitate to respond... any and all information will be greatfully appreciated
also Any information on dealings with Tiger Japanese and their motors would be great
Thanks in advance
Dave
Last edited by drpdndshvd; 01-Feb-2008 at 11:29 AM.
#2
well the intake manifold modifications might be that you might need to re-use your old one, this will eliminate the EGR valve/port b/c your old one won't have a EGR. If you do re-use your old one make sure to use a new intake manifold gasket.
If you have to remove the vtec solenoid and re-use your old one its probably b/c they're giving you a crappy VTEC-E engine (the E stands for economy) which has dual stage vtec, so it has a different vtec solenoid with 2 actual solenoids on it to activate both stages of vtec.
If you ask me you DON'T want one of these VTEC-E engines. They get good gas mileage but are slow as hell....hence the Economy part.
I'd just get either another D16Y8 or a JDM d15b (not the VTEC-E engine though). An easy way of distinguishing is, the VTEC-E engines say Vtec-E right on the valve cover (i beleive), the EGR valve and the dual-solenoid vtec solenoid.
The problem with these engines is that the ECU you need to use to activate both vtec stages is extremely RARE, so if you use your stock ecu it'll only activate the one stage of vtec.
They way the VTEC-E engines work is up to like 3000rpms it only works on 3 valves per cylinder, then the 1st stage of vtec engages (at 3000rpms) making all 4 valves per cylinder work, then at 5000rpms (or so) the second stage of vtec engages (like a normal vtec engine) for better high rpm performance.
But the problem is, since our ecus only have the ability to control the 1 stage of vtec the engine will run on 3 valves per cylinder until 5000rpms when vtec engages, then all of a sudden its like the engine wakes up and starts moving, so vtec will kick in hard, but its only b/c the engine is extra slow before vtec kicks in at 5000rpms.
If you have to remove the vtec solenoid and re-use your old one its probably b/c they're giving you a crappy VTEC-E engine (the E stands for economy) which has dual stage vtec, so it has a different vtec solenoid with 2 actual solenoids on it to activate both stages of vtec.
If you ask me you DON'T want one of these VTEC-E engines. They get good gas mileage but are slow as hell....hence the Economy part.
I'd just get either another D16Y8 or a JDM d15b (not the VTEC-E engine though). An easy way of distinguishing is, the VTEC-E engines say Vtec-E right on the valve cover (i beleive), the EGR valve and the dual-solenoid vtec solenoid.
The problem with these engines is that the ECU you need to use to activate both vtec stages is extremely RARE, so if you use your stock ecu it'll only activate the one stage of vtec.
They way the VTEC-E engines work is up to like 3000rpms it only works on 3 valves per cylinder, then the 1st stage of vtec engages (at 3000rpms) making all 4 valves per cylinder work, then at 5000rpms (or so) the second stage of vtec engages (like a normal vtec engine) for better high rpm performance.
But the problem is, since our ecus only have the ability to control the 1 stage of vtec the engine will run on 3 valves per cylinder until 5000rpms when vtec engages, then all of a sudden its like the engine wakes up and starts moving, so vtec will kick in hard, but its only b/c the engine is extra slow before vtec kicks in at 5000rpms.
#3
YEa he told me that the motor that they have is the dual stage Vtec motor.. so what your saying is exactly what hes selling me.. However.. If i switch out my Vtec solenoid with my current one.. it will run the same as the Vtec motor that i currently have in it correct? The later part of what you mentioned would only affect me if i kept the Vtec-E solenoid in ?
#6
Just got off the phone with a mechanic friend from option JDM... and apparently the motors are no where near as close as Tiger was telling me... so i guess im going to have to stick to a North American Motor...
Thanks to the guys from option from saving me the hassle of ordering a motor that needs a lot more work to fit then i was being told!
Thanks to the guys from option from saving me the hassle of ordering a motor that needs a lot more work to fit then i was being told!
#8
Anyone know what i would need to do to use a motor out of an automatic in a 5 speed? would i just use my flywheel and goodies and transfer them to the motor? or would it not work at all? the scrap yard said it shoudl work no problem but i want to make sure
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
#12
Well the cheapest i found around here was almost 800-1000.00 for something with 160-180,000 KM.... i just found an automatic with 95 K for 500 plus shipping so thats likely where im going if theres no biggie switching from auto- 5 speed
#13
well, actually with the d16y8's the intake manifold and throttle body are different on the autos compared to the 5spd. However, you could just re-use your intake manifold.
The auto Y8's have a EACV on the bottom of the throttle body and no IACV on the back of the intake manifold (like a 5spd). So you'd go to put it in your car and realize that the plug for your IACV doesn't fit the 3 wire EACV on the auto y8's throttle body. Then you'd have to swap out the intake manifold b/c you can't even just put a IACV on the auto manifold and use a 5spd throttle body b/c the holes aren't there on the auto manifold for the IACV.
The auto Y8's have a EACV on the bottom of the throttle body and no IACV on the back of the intake manifold (like a 5spd). So you'd go to put it in your car and realize that the plug for your IACV doesn't fit the 3 wire EACV on the auto y8's throttle body. Then you'd have to swap out the intake manifold b/c you can't even just put a IACV on the auto manifold and use a 5spd throttle body b/c the holes aren't there on the auto manifold for the IACV.
#15
EDIT: ok....
I would just swap the Intake Manifold...
I just re read it and i think what your saying is that i would swap the intake manifold.. and i would have the EACV just with nothing attached? because it would be hooked up to my intake manifold?
use my clutch and flywheel and thats it for what i would need?
Thanks guys.. im trying to pass all the info along before i make the decision on which motor
I would just swap the Intake Manifold...
I just re read it and i think what your saying is that i would swap the intake manifold.. and i would have the EACV just with nothing attached? because it would be hooked up to my intake manifold?
use my clutch and flywheel and thats it for what i would need?
Thanks guys.. im trying to pass all the info along before i make the decision on which motor
Last edited by drpdndshvd; 01-Feb-2008 at 11:39 PM.
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