Engine Ask all your tech questions about engines here

Replacing head gasket on 92 1.5 l dx hatch

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 09:25 AM
  #1  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Replacing head gasket on 92 1.5 l dx hatch

Hey all,

I am a noob here but I did UTFSE before I posted.

My wife's everyday car blew the rad and the next week started smoking (white smoke the week after the new rad was installed, I assume it overheated and warped the head)

So I have endeavored to replace the head gasket. It's a 92' DX 1.5 l hatch with about 275,000 on it. The car was repainted by the previous owner and looks immaculate so I want to keep it on the road.

I have followed the shop manual to remove the PS pump and bracket, the intake manifold and valve cover. Rad hoses, etc.

I haven't loosened the timing belt or pulled the distributor and head yet.

My question is how important is it that I turn the crank to TDC before pulling the dist and head? Can't I just mark the timing belt and the cam pulley and make sure to put the belt back in the same spot when I reassemble the engine?

Next question. Where can I get the head resurfaced in the Brampton area? Anyone have a referral for me?

FYI.

I ordered a new head gasket, intake gasket and head bolts.

This site is great! I really appreciate all of the help you guys offer!
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 09:52 AM
  #2  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
It's cool that you're doing the work yourself. Will save you a lot of money and you get to learn the car inside-out. DIY FTW! Only time my car sees another shop is for e-tests. lol

You don't have to have the engine at TDC but it does make it that much easier to know where the crank and cam is positioned, plus the cam and crank should already be marked for TDC. You can mark the belt as well, will help make sure you're not off by a tooth or two.

As for head resurfacing... give these guys a call:
GBP - Home

Heard nothing but good things about them.

Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 10:03 AM
  #3  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Thanks. I used to race motocross years ago. Did all my own engine work on my Honda CR. So I have a little experience.

I just found the page in the manual to find TDC. I have a D15Z engine. I was confused trying to find the pointer on the back of the timing belt cover, but that's for the D16Z engine.

I have the two marks on the cam pulley lined up with the top of the back of the timing belt cover with the "UP" at the top (duh). So I am at TDC now. Thanks.

I marked the timing belt with a white paint marker at the drive pulley and cam pulley so I should be ok for putting it back together.

I'm amazed at how easy it is to work on this car. Even the exhaust shroud bolts came out without a problem. Someone here suggested soaking them in WD for a day then torching them before trying to remove them. That worked like a charm!
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 10:20 AM
  #4  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
Yep. Not only are civics super-reliable, they are a breeze to work on!

...well....the older civics anyways...lol. The new ones are so tight...no space to work.
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 11:51 AM
  #5  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
OK. So I have found a shop to do the resurface for 75 bucks but I am told I need to remove the cam assembly. Is that right?
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 12:01 PM
  #6  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
^It depends on their machenery/procedure. But yes, if they specify it needs to be removed, then it needs to be removed.

What shop is that? I need some engine work done as well...
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 12:05 PM
  #7  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Mississauga Engines 905-826-8706

I have never used them so I have no idea if they are any good.

The guy said the cam needs to be removed so that the grinder doesn't hit any of the valves that are in the open position.

Can you pull the cam only and leave the valves and rockers in the head? The springs should return the valves to the closed position no?
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 12:41 PM
  #8  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
^^Yep! Just remove the cam/rocker assembly and all valves will remain closed via the springs.


...and thanks for the contact info!
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 02:46 PM
  #9  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
ahhh!

There is a sensor right under the distributor in the head. How do you disconnect it?

It's hard wired into the harness that runs over the engine!
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 03:08 PM
  #10  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
^ Which sensor is it? Does that maybe one of those sensors that are threaded into the head? (can just unscrew it?)
Old 10-Jun-2010 | 08:32 PM
  #11  
D.T.P's Avatar
Inactive
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,641
From: N/A
Yeah the sensor should unplug and unscrew.

Mike I talked to GBP and he wanted 80$ for surfacing, 200$ for valve job and another 80$ for OEM valve seals.
Ill be dropping off my head there in less than 2 weeks. Just be ready to wait a bit. He's busy like always.
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 09:52 AM
  #12  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
^Cool, good to know there are several affordable places out there. Thanks.

My project is in no hurry so time isn't an issue...lol.
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 10:10 AM
  #13  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
This engine is toast!

Pretty burnt up. I am just going to bolt in the new head gasket and hope for the best while I look for a new car.
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 10:18 AM
  #14  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
Don't give up so soon! lol

What condition is the rest fo the car in? If the rest is still good, swap in a new motor...

A new (used...~60k or so) d-series motor from japan can be had and swapped in easy and for much less money then buying a whole other car.

Give her some new life and keep it going!

Take some pics of the motor and post them up. It may not be as bad as you think...
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 10:23 AM
  #15  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
I may do that. For now I need to keep it running so the wife can get to work and I can stop driving her in every morning.

The car is in good shape. It was repainted before I got it and has no rust.

It's auto though. I would like a stick again.

The problem with an engine swap is time.
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 10:25 AM
  #16  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
If you swap in with another of the exact same engine, it shouldn't take longer then a day to swap, with a couple extra hands...
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 02:05 PM
  #17  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
the gasket they shipped me isn't the same as the one i took off the car.

The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004

The website says:

If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).

This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 02:54 PM
  #18  
Climax_R's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 786
From: Markham, Ont
to the OP is this civic Teal in color by any chance??
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 04:39 PM
  #19  
Teflon320's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
no, red
Old 11-Jun-2010 | 04:41 PM
  #20  
MPR's Avatar
MPR
Inactive
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,460
From: Where my car is.
Originally Posted by Teflon320
the gasket they shipped me isn't the same as the one i took off the car.

The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004

The website says:

If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).

This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
I'd use the gasket and head bolts they recommended for the leaking issue.


Quick Reply: Replacing head gasket on 92 1.5 l dx hatch



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:44 PM.