Replacing head gasket on 92 1.5 l dx hatch
10-Jun-2010, 09:25 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Replacing head gasket on 92 1.5 l dx hatch
Hey all,
I am a noob here but I did UTFSE before I posted.
My wife's everyday car blew the rad and the next week started smoking (white smoke the week after the new rad was installed, I assume it overheated and warped the head)
So I have endeavored to replace the head gasket. It's a 92' DX 1.5 l hatch with about 275,000 on it. The car was repainted by the previous owner and looks immaculate so I want to keep it on the road.
I have followed the shop manual to remove the PS pump and bracket, the intake manifold and valve cover. Rad hoses, etc.
I haven't loosened the timing belt or pulled the distributor and head yet.
My question is how important is it that I turn the crank to TDC before pulling the dist and head? Can't I just mark the timing belt and the cam pulley and make sure to put the belt back in the same spot when I reassemble the engine?
Next question. Where can I get the head resurfaced in the Brampton area? Anyone have a referral for me?
FYI.
I ordered a new head gasket, intake gasket and head bolts.
This site is great! I really appreciate all of the help you guys offer!
I am a noob here but I did UTFSE before I posted.
My wife's everyday car blew the rad and the next week started smoking (white smoke the week after the new rad was installed, I assume it overheated and warped the head)
So I have endeavored to replace the head gasket. It's a 92' DX 1.5 l hatch with about 275,000 on it. The car was repainted by the previous owner and looks immaculate so I want to keep it on the road.
I have followed the shop manual to remove the PS pump and bracket, the intake manifold and valve cover. Rad hoses, etc.
I haven't loosened the timing belt or pulled the distributor and head yet.
My question is how important is it that I turn the crank to TDC before pulling the dist and head? Can't I just mark the timing belt and the cam pulley and make sure to put the belt back in the same spot when I reassemble the engine?
Next question. Where can I get the head resurfaced in the Brampton area? Anyone have a referral for me?
FYI.
I ordered a new head gasket, intake gasket and head bolts.
This site is great! I really appreciate all of the help you guys offer!
10-Jun-2010, 09:52 AM
#2
Inactive
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
It's cool that you're doing the work yourself. Will save you a lot of money and you get to learn the car inside-out. 
DIY FTW! 
Only time my car sees another shop is for e-tests. lol
You don't have to have the engine at TDC but it does make it that much easier to know where the crank and cam is positioned, plus the cam and crank should already be marked for TDC. You can mark the belt as well, will help make sure you're not off by a tooth or two.
As for head resurfacing... give these guys a call:
GBP - Home
Heard nothing but good things about them.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
DIY FTW! Only time my car sees another shop is for e-tests. lolYou don't have to have the engine at TDC but it does make it that much easier to know where the crank and cam is positioned, plus the cam and crank should already be marked for TDC. You can mark the belt as well, will help make sure you're not off by a tooth or two.
As for head resurfacing... give these guys a call:
GBP - Home
Heard nothing but good things about them.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
10-Jun-2010, 10:03 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Thanks. I used to race motocross years ago. Did all my own engine work on my Honda CR. So I have a little experience.
I just found the page in the manual to find TDC. I have a D15Z engine. I was confused trying to find the pointer on the back of the timing belt cover, but that's for the D16Z engine.
I have the two marks on the cam pulley lined up with the top of the back of the timing belt cover with the "UP" at the top (duh). So I am at TDC now. Thanks.
I marked the timing belt with a white paint marker at the drive pulley and cam pulley so I should be ok for putting it back together.
I'm amazed at how easy it is to work on this car. Even the exhaust shroud bolts came out without a problem. Someone here suggested soaking them in WD for a day then torching them before trying to remove them. That worked like a charm!
I just found the page in the manual to find TDC. I have a D15Z engine. I was confused trying to find the pointer on the back of the timing belt cover, but that's for the D16Z engine.
I have the two marks on the cam pulley lined up with the top of the back of the timing belt cover with the "UP" at the top (duh). So I am at TDC now. Thanks.
I marked the timing belt with a white paint marker at the drive pulley and cam pulley so I should be ok for putting it back together.
I'm amazed at how easy it is to work on this car. Even the exhaust shroud bolts came out without a problem. Someone here suggested soaking them in WD for a day then torching them before trying to remove them. That worked like a charm!
10-Jun-2010, 12:05 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
Mississauga Engines 905-826-8706
I have never used them so I have no idea if they are any good.
The guy said the cam needs to be removed so that the grinder doesn't hit any of the valves that are in the open position.
Can you pull the cam only and leave the valves and rockers in the head? The springs should return the valves to the closed position no?
I have never used them so I have no idea if they are any good.
The guy said the cam needs to be removed so that the grinder doesn't hit any of the valves that are in the open position.
Can you pull the cam only and leave the valves and rockers in the head? The springs should return the valves to the closed position no?
10-Jun-2010, 08:32 PM
#11
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 4,641
Yeah the sensor should unplug and unscrew.
Mike I talked to GBP and he wanted 80$ for surfacing, 200$ for valve job and another 80$ for OEM valve seals.
Ill be dropping off my head there in less than 2 weeks. Just be ready to wait a bit. He's busy like always.
Mike I talked to GBP and he wanted 80$ for surfacing, 200$ for valve job and another 80$ for OEM valve seals.
Ill be dropping off my head there in less than 2 weeks. Just be ready to wait a bit. He's busy like always.
11-Jun-2010, 10:18 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Don't give up so soon! lol
What condition is the rest fo the car in? If the rest is still good, swap in a new motor...
A new (used...~60k or so) d-series motor from japan can be had and swapped in easy and for much less money then buying a whole other car.
Give her some new life and keep it going!
Take some pics of the motor and post them up. It may not be as bad as you think...
What condition is the rest fo the car in? If the rest is still good, swap in a new motor...
A new (used...~60k or so) d-series motor from japan can be had and swapped in easy and for much less money then buying a whole other car.
Give her some new life and keep it going!
Take some pics of the motor and post them up. It may not be as bad as you think...
11-Jun-2010, 10:23 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
I may do that. For now I need to keep it running so the wife can get to work and I can stop driving her in every morning.
The car is in good shape. It was repainted before I got it and has no rust.
It's auto though. I would like a stick again.
The problem with an engine swap is time.
The car is in good shape. It was repainted before I got it and has no rust.
It's auto though. I would like a stick again.
The problem with an engine swap is time.
11-Jun-2010, 02:05 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14
the gasket they shipped me isn't the same as the one i took off the car.
The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004
The website says:
If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).
This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004
The website says:
If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).
This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
11-Jun-2010, 04:41 PM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
the gasket they shipped me isn't the same as the one i took off the car.
The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004
The website says:
If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).
This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
The one they shipped me is part number is 12251-P01-004
The website says:
If the head gasket is being replaced due to leakage, refer to Honda Service Bulletin 97-047. In cases of leakage, use head gasket 12251-P01-004 along with special head bolt #90005-PM3-004 (10 req'd.) instead of the head gasket in this set and the normal head bolts. Normal replacement (without leakage) should use the head gasket contained in this set along with the normal head bolts (NOT the special head bolts!).
This gasket fits. Should I go ahead and use it?
