Idle too low when cold outside
#1
Idle too low when cold outside
When it's warm outside or when the motor is warm, it idles fine.
Now with recent cold weather, upon startup, the idle is too low and the motor will stall if I don't give it a throttle blip. It takes about 2 min for the idles to go upto 1500RPM.
Could a weak battery cause this?
Any ideas?
Now with recent cold weather, upon startup, the idle is too low and the motor will stall if I don't give it a throttle blip. It takes about 2 min for the idles to go upto 1500RPM.
Could a weak battery cause this?
Any ideas?
#2
No its not your battery. It's probably your FITV falling to open. Take the duct work off, and feel if there is suction on the lower port of your TB. (when the engine is idling low) if there is no suction its stuck close or not opened enough (if someone just cleaned it)
So either open it up some more and clean it, or replace it.
So either open it up some more and clean it, or replace it.
#5
I thought the same but the only thing that could go bad is the IAC valve. I checked and it's within specs. Also, there is no carbon deposit on it. When unplugged, idle RPMs drop as expected. Could my bigger intake piping have effect on IAC valve?
PS. going through my archives, I have to check my IAT and ECT sensors as especialy ECT failure affects cold starts.
PS. going through my archives, I have to check my IAT and ECT sensors as especialy ECT failure affects cold starts.
Last edited by EFSiR; 05-Nov-2007 at 11:02 PM.
#6
No your intake will have no real affect.
Thats why i said it would be nice to have a datalogger. My first sensor to probe would be the ECT as well. I've seen MAF sensors cause a bogg on a cold motor as well, so it doesnt have to be a sensor which is temperature sensitive. (btw i know your car has no MAF, im just making an example)
Zeeman can probably hook up his datalogger if your obd1 to your computer. I'm not sure if he can actually do this or not, might be best to pm him and see if he can or not. If he cant, then start probing.
Thats why i said it would be nice to have a datalogger. My first sensor to probe would be the ECT as well. I've seen MAF sensors cause a bogg on a cold motor as well, so it doesnt have to be a sensor which is temperature sensitive. (btw i know your car has no MAF, im just making an example)
Zeeman can probably hook up his datalogger if your obd1 to your computer. I'm not sure if he can actually do this or not, might be best to pm him and see if he can or not. If he cant, then start probing.
#10
Keep in mind that the outlet (part of the throttle body that touches intake manifold) for 2000 B16A2 SiR and 2000 Type R throttle body is the SAME diameter. No kidding here. I took measurements myself. It's only the throttle body inlet for Type R that is different size (bigger) than 2000 B16A2 throttle body. I didn't check my current B16A2 gasket against my ITR TB but I'm thinking that it's the same.
I'll take it apart soon to inspect.
I'll take it apart soon to inspect.
#11
the solution, BAD PURGE SOLENOID VALVE.
When the car's been sitting out for a while, your gas vapours will collect in your gas tank.
When it's cold outside, and you start the car, your ecu is not getting any input from the oxygen sensors till your car warms up.
If your Purge cutoff solenoid valve is stuck open, you start the car and all the vapours rush in causing rich condition stalling the motor.
HTH some one.
When the car's been sitting out for a while, your gas vapours will collect in your gas tank.
When it's cold outside, and you start the car, your ecu is not getting any input from the oxygen sensors till your car warms up.
If your Purge cutoff solenoid valve is stuck open, you start the car and all the vapours rush in causing rich condition stalling the motor.
HTH some one.
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