d16z6 Crank pulley wobbeling
#1
d16z6 Crank pulley wobbeling
ok so my crank pulley was making noise and i saw that it was wobbeling so i parked it up for now. i have a couple questions.
what will i need to fix this problem? a new crank pulley?
any DIYs on changing crank pulleys?
what will i need to fix this problem? a new crank pulley?
any DIYs on changing crank pulleys?
#3
#5
thats why i want to know if there is anything i should be aware of while doing it.
#9
well i had to just give her, and i did just that. i started by taking the power steering belt off took 2 bolts off the alternator and shifted it forward, and that made it easy for the alt. belt to come off.
now ur right i was sweating bullets trying to take that bolt off with a ratchet and a bar for more torque. i was getting so ****ing pissed because it was barely moving then i had it going steady i thot lemme turn back the other way, hoping the bolt would be easier to come off, but no it completely stopped. went next door to mr transmission and buddy let me borrow his impact gun and 17 mm impact socket. and it came off farely easy. i got it pretty lose doing it the old school way.
now as i was taking it off, and a bunch of metal pieces fell out. so the key way shattered. and the end of the crank shaft, its like broken where the key way goes in. that little groove isnt so little. and the pulley inside the circle where there appears to be teeth is all like worn out and shaved down.
so someone told me, for now to get a new pulley, and a new key way, stick the key way in and j b weld it in and put the pulley on and wait for it to harden....
good idea?
#10
[quote=civicEJ1;1390687]i thot lemme turn back the other way, hoping the bolt would be easier to come offquote]
I hope to god you didnt retate the crank the opposite way.
I once had a wobbly crank pulley on my old SOHC, somehow the pulley bolt backed off and came loose. After taking it apart, the keyway had gotten loose and actualy somehow grinded the teeth on the crank down far enough the keyway had no home to settle into.
Now thats a shitty situation.
How did i fix it you ask...
I gave the bolt hell with the impact gun with the pulley installed. Making sure it was well over 100ft/lb. Then i spot welded the crank pulley to the bolt so it wouldnt come free haha
I ended up doing a B series swap soon after.
But one tip, do NOT just go and tighten the pulley bolt because its loose, make sure everything is lined up properly. or you'll fall into my same problem 4 years ago.
I hope to god you didnt retate the crank the opposite way.
I once had a wobbly crank pulley on my old SOHC, somehow the pulley bolt backed off and came loose. After taking it apart, the keyway had gotten loose and actualy somehow grinded the teeth on the crank down far enough the keyway had no home to settle into.
Now thats a shitty situation.
How did i fix it you ask...
I gave the bolt hell with the impact gun with the pulley installed. Making sure it was well over 100ft/lb. Then i spot welded the crank pulley to the bolt so it wouldnt come free haha
I ended up doing a B series swap soon after.
But one tip, do NOT just go and tighten the pulley bolt because its loose, make sure everything is lined up properly. or you'll fall into my same problem 4 years ago.
#11
If the alignment hole on the crankshaft snout is broken or damaged then you will never be able to properly set ignition timing.
However, with some smart thinking you can tack weld the pulley to the snout so that it is still lined up with the crankshaft marks. Then re-install everything.
If this came to my shop, I personally wouldn't do this, because I would be held reliable if anything happened to the engine afterwards, so make sure you do this right. I don't think JB weld will hold for that long to be honest.
However, with some smart thinking you can tack weld the pulley to the snout so that it is still lined up with the crankshaft marks. Then re-install everything.
If this came to my shop, I personally wouldn't do this, because I would be held reliable if anything happened to the engine afterwards, so make sure you do this right. I don't think JB weld will hold for that long to be honest.
#12
[quote=honDuh;1390695]
damn, that sucks. im almostt in the same situation.. i wish i had a camera so i could hsow u guys. but yea im going to have to spot weld it back on. its not grinded that badly on the crank but i can probalby sit the key in there properly and jb weld it so it can hold long enough until im ready for my B swap.
i got a crank pulley for 20 bucks MINT
im gettin the key way from honda for like $2.74 or something soft like that
anddd not too sure how much a container or tube of jb weld will be.
honestly i just need to get my car back on the road. i have to get to school and work. if it holds im gonna take this path for now and go B later.
luckily i decided to get dirty and do it my self. imagine paying 75 byucks labour to find out my crank shaft is ****ed plus more labour to put it all back together. plus as chris said, his shop wouldnt do a job like that anyways.
thanks guys for the help ill let u now how the welding goes.
i thot lemme turn back the other way, hoping the bolt would be easier to come offquote]
I hope to god you didnt retate the crank the opposite way.
I once had a wobbly crank pulley on my old SOHC, somehow the pulley bolt backed off and came loose. After taking it apart, the keyway had gotten loose and actualy somehow grinded the teeth on the crank down far enough the keyway had no home to settle into.
Now thats a shitty situation.
How did i fix it you ask...
I gave the bolt hell with the impact gun with the pulley installed. Making sure it was well over 100ft/lb. Then i spot welded the crank pulley to the bolt so it wouldnt come free haha
I ended up doing a B series swap soon after.
But one tip, do NOT just go and tighten the pulley bolt because its loose, make sure everything is lined up properly. or you'll fall into my same problem 4 years ago.
I hope to god you didnt retate the crank the opposite way.
I once had a wobbly crank pulley on my old SOHC, somehow the pulley bolt backed off and came loose. After taking it apart, the keyway had gotten loose and actualy somehow grinded the teeth on the crank down far enough the keyway had no home to settle into.
Now thats a shitty situation.
How did i fix it you ask...
I gave the bolt hell with the impact gun with the pulley installed. Making sure it was well over 100ft/lb. Then i spot welded the crank pulley to the bolt so it wouldnt come free haha
I ended up doing a B series swap soon after.
But one tip, do NOT just go and tighten the pulley bolt because its loose, make sure everything is lined up properly. or you'll fall into my same problem 4 years ago.
damn, that sucks. im almostt in the same situation.. i wish i had a camera so i could hsow u guys. but yea im going to have to spot weld it back on. its not grinded that badly on the crank but i can probalby sit the key in there properly and jb weld it so it can hold long enough until im ready for my B swap.
i got a crank pulley for 20 bucks MINT
im gettin the key way from honda for like $2.74 or something soft like that
anddd not too sure how much a container or tube of jb weld will be.
honestly i just need to get my car back on the road. i have to get to school and work. if it holds im gonna take this path for now and go B later.
luckily i decided to get dirty and do it my self. imagine paying 75 byucks labour to find out my crank shaft is ****ed plus more labour to put it all back together. plus as chris said, his shop wouldnt do a job like that anyways.
thanks guys for the help ill let u now how the welding goes.
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