varrinb18c

Hey there. I have a 88 crx si with a 92 jdm b16a. it had a slightly bouncing idle from about 700 to 1200 rpm. so last night i cleaned the IACV and cleaned the IM with intake medic i bought from crappy tire and now all of a sudden its running rich and idles at like 300 rpm until the check engine light comes on then it idles fine but is still really rich. everytime i shut the car off the code goes away. the light on the ecu flashes a light and if thats a CEl light it flashes a code 3 , 5 and 7. is it posssible i somehow fried my MAP sensor and TPS? resistance across the 2pin connector on the IACV has 38 ohms of resistance and my manual says it should be 5-18 ohms did i fry the IACV and would that throuw the MAP and the TPS out? the manual i used was the vtec supplement for crx sir. would it be the same readings for a 92 integra xsi? thats what i think my engine is out of. thanks for any help.

MPR

The IACV, Map and TPS are all seperate components. The input from both TPS, Map (and other sensors/inputs) helps to tell the ecu how to controll the IAVC. The IACV will not throw off the readings from the TPS or Map.

Search the proper way to get the code from the ecu (have to jump a connector etc...). Once you have the code, post that up here.

varrinb18c

I cant get the codes everytime i shut the car off the codes go away for a few minutes and when i jump the service connector nothing happens. i tried even doing it while the car was running and nothing happened. i have a pr3 ecu and it has a little red light on it that flashes 3 times stops then flashes 5 times and stops then flashes 7 times then repeats the process. is there some other way to check the codes that will show them?

MPR

Oh, ok. Did a quick search. On PR3 ecu's, there is a red light that blinks (just like you said). short blinks are 1's and long blinks are 10's.

So, according to this: All The ECU Codes You Will Ever Need - Honda-Tech

You have three seperate codes. 3, 5 and 7. And those codes are....MAP, MAP and TPS.

Before you go replacing the the MAP and TPS, check all wires and connections. There may also be a way to re-calibrate the TPS, so search that and try that first. If all wiring, connections check out ok and re-calibrating the TPS fails, then I'd replace the TPS and MAP.

If you are successful at re-calibrating the TPS, the code "7" should disappear. Though you may have to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds or so to clear the codes... Not 100% sure on that, the code may just disappear.

varrinb18c

ok thanks i'll look into calibrating the tps. hopefully i didnt fry something and it just needs an adjustment. i'll keep you updated

MPR

Just make sure you check all connections/plugs etc... ensure that everything is connected properly.

varrinb18c

So i got home tonite and when i got in the car and turned the accesories on the codes were gone ( after i reset the ecu ) and never came back but now it wont start at all. Its getting spark and fuel. I checked the tps the map and the iacv and did all the tests the manual say and they all test fine. I can smell fuel from inside the car when i try to start. my brand new spark plugs are soaked in fuel and now fairly carboned up. Any ideas anyone?

gavin.p89

I had an issue with a IACV when i cleaned mine but didn't replace the gaskets andi had a bad flucuation issue. replaced the IACV gaskets and problem solved.

rick10

yea i also read about making sure the gaskets are replace. I also remember reading about people having problems when they didnt let the IACV dry after cleaning it.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you sure you didn't just switch the TPS and MAP electrical connections? The both use the same round 3-wire plug that can be switched accidentally.

MPR

^Was thinking the same thing. Hence, why I said, check all connections and make sure everything is plugged in correctly...lol

varrinb18c

Yeah I double and triple checked that all connections were right. I'm absolutely lost. the plugs are soaked in gas and kinda carboned for being only two weeks old but they are still producing spark.the only thing I didn't try was replacing the iacv gasket but do you really think that would cause a no start? Thanks for all the input.

MPR

^When was the last time your replaced the ignition wires/cap/rotor?

varrinb18c

I just changed the cap and rotor about 3 weeks ago and the plug wires last week. Late last night I took the TPS off my buddies b16b and took the MAP sensor from his crx and i didnt make a difference but when i put my TPS on his car it worked fine, started right up with no issue. So i guess that means my TPS is ok for sure. I couldnt test the MAP thought cause his MAP is on the IM. This is bizzare i never thought cleaning the IACV would cause so much problems. Maybe it was still slightly wet when i put it back on? I let it dry in the sun for like an hour.

MPR

cleaning the IACV shouldn't cause any problems. There must be another issue going on... I'm not sure on this one...

Check the main relay???

varrinb18c

So interesting turn of events yesterday.My buddy tells me that on thursday when it was still running i had said to him that i needed to reset the ECU and when I went inside to grab a tool he thought i meant for him to do it so he pulled off the negative battery terminal the problem was the key was still turned to the on position and he said he heard a bunch of snapping and crackling in the engine bay then it wouldnt start after that. So it looks to me like i have opened quite a can of worms here. The main relay seems to be fine it clicks when the CEL comes on when i first turn the key, clicks again when the CEL goes of then clicks again when i try to start it. The main fuse seems to be fine but does have a little bit of carbon around the link. Any ideas on what he fried cause I am lost?

varrinb18c

Well for anyone who's interested it turns out that when i cleaned the IACV it was so carboned that it blew all that crap into the combustion chamber and fouled the spark plugs and even though they were still getting spark it wasnt a strong enough spark to make it start. So thats all it was a new set of sprak plugs and its back running strong. i feel like an idiot now knowing it was that simple all along but oh well at least its fixed. Thanks MPR for all your input.

MPR

^Glad to hear you figured it out.

Yeah, you can have spark while the plugs are outside the cylinder, but the conditions inside the cylinder can make it much more difficult to produce a spark.