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DIY EK rear disc swap

Old 28-Feb-2006, 10:48 PM
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DIY ON EK DISK SWAP



Here are the trailing arms, upper control arms, discs, calipers and parking brake cables cleaned up and ready to install. Time frame for this mod should between 4 to 8 hours depending on your tools, space and any problem bolts! This is on the same skill level as installing shocks, headers or cam shaft.



Okay first jack up your car onto stands and remove rear wheel. There are 5 bolts that hold the rear trailing arm onto your car, these and the parking brake cable and brake line need to be disconnected to swap the rear arm and brake unit.



Prep the new disc brakes for installation. Clean up the new calipers with brake cleaner and mount new pads, shims and apply Anti-Squeal to pads. I also applied Anti-Seize to all bolts for easy removal later on. Tighten to specs. This would be also a good time to paint the calipers while off your car if you like to. Due to heat of brakes use Brake Caliper paint or 1200-degree engine enamel. Brakes heat up in excess of 900-degrees.





Now start with the parking brake cable. You’ll need to remove one of the front seats and center parking brake trim. Pull carpet from under rear seat forward to access the parking brake lock nuts. Disconnect both from parking handle and push rubber gasket and wires down into car. Now underneath there are a few bolts that secure the cable to the body. You may have to move part of exhaust head shield to access some bolts.

Use a 10mm wrench to loosen brake line on car from the hose to drum. Use the rubber bleeder nipple to cover brake hose on car. Otherwise this will leak and you may have to bleed your entire brake system. Careful not to get brake fluid on your hands and then on your painted surface.



Start with the one 14mm bolt at the front of the trailing arm, remove (Pic 1). Use Liquid Wrench on frozen bolts. Next there are 2 - 17mm bolts (see pic 2) that support the trailing arm in a center bushing. Remove bolts. Use a jack stand to support the arm from below near shocks.



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Old 28-Feb-2006, 10:51 PM
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Next remove the bottom 14mm bolt that connects the trailing arm to the lower control arm. Finally remove the top 14mm trailing arm bolt that connect to top support bracket. The trailing arm is now free and unsecured from car. I left the top shorter control arm on my Civic to reduce the chance of decreased handling issues since the parts were from the smaller Del Sol.



Caution - Use a jack stand to support trailing arm. This arm with brake drum weights over 50lbs so be careful when removing that last bolt.


Now if your calipers are dry from painting and pads are mounted you can now install the new arm with disc brake. Install the 5 bolts in the reverse order of removal. Again I applied Anti-Seize to the bolts and tighten to torque specs. These are the bolts that will be adjusted during a thrust angle alignment for the back end.



Rerun parking brake cable thru holding bolts underneath and into cars interior. Attach to parking brake hand lever and adjust tension so that you have 4-6 clicks on handle till it stops firmly.



Reconnect brake line to caliper hose and tighten. RECHECK all bolts for tightness. Now you need to bleed the brake system. Follow normal instructions for bleeding brake system properly. Bleed line enough to flush all old brake fluid from hose and caliper and remove all air bubbles. I pushed about 8oz of clean fluid thru each line to ensure firm braking power and any sludge or dirt is gone. 4 to 6 brake pedal pushes could drain your master cylinder so watch the level closely and refill often (pic 3). Once all bubble are gone tighten bleeder screw and mount wheel back onto car.





Repeat process for the other side of car. Including parking brake line connection too. Prior to moving car pump brakes till firm and rear calipers grab tight.

Caution: Do not drive past 10mph and or on public roads till you have tested stopping power of brakes completely!!!
Test Drive car: Slowly move car and test brakes for stopping power.
Test in forward and reverse motions; listen for squeals, chatter and any smell of grabbing brakes. Test parking brake for holding power and handle and also loose play. Once brakes have been tests on a closed road, test on the main roads and high way speeds; give yourself extra stopping room. Disc will fell different and stop differently then your drums so take it easy till you get the feel for them. Also find a hill to test parking brake holding power on.
Understand that this brake upgrade is a major suspension modification that CAN and WILL affect your cars handling and ride. Get a professional 4 wheel and thrust angle alignment done ASAP, this will ensure your safety and others on the road around you!!
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Old 08-Mar-2006, 11:08 AM
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nobody likes this thread?
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Old 08-Mar-2006, 01:29 PM
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great thread!
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Old 08-Mar-2006, 02:31 PM
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It's very nice but boy is it a lot of work. I personally would not attempt doing this. I wonder how much someone would charge to do this mod.
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Old 09-Mar-2006, 12:22 AM
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thats wicked... i hope to be able to do that to my eg in the future.... ^ i would also like to know how much that cost to have done...
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Old 09-Mar-2006, 12:25 AM
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2-300 depending on the shop
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Old 09-Mar-2006, 09:06 AM
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Originally posted by jwald
2-300 depending on the shop
$200 - $300 is actually not that bad. I am assuming that this price would include parts as well, right?
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Old 09-Mar-2006, 08:00 PM
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2-3 hundred for labour ONLY.

to buy the rear conversion teknotik is selling it anywhere from 150-500 dollars.

plus you got to buy the fluids, any bolts that are missing or broken plus any other misc items.
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Old 09-Mar-2006, 10:50 PM
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its def a good idea to let someone with access to a lift work on it, so much easier, unless you like laying in a tight space under the car.

Also a good idea for undoing stubborn brake lines is to get one of those mastercraft ratcheting wrenches that apply pressure to the nut when you turn it. Lessens the chance of you stripping the nut and works very well IMO.
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Old 10-Mar-2006, 03:23 PM
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So depending on the type of conversion you go for and the shop you have it done at it could cost you anywhere between $500 - $1000.
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Old 10-Mar-2006, 11:26 PM
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correct.
and lets not forget that its easier for you to swap out the pads and rotors at the same time to new ones unless the ones you got are almost mint.
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Old 10-May-2007, 12:20 AM
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ANYONE GOT THEIR REAR UPPER ARMS LYING AROUND AND FOR SALE???
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