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Idle help please

Old 03-Nov-2015, 07:50 PM
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Idle help please

Hey guys on my d16y7 been having a idle problem , for some reason when I drive and I come to a complete stop the cars idle goes up to 3 for a couple of seconds then drops back down to normal but for some other reason when the cars on and I unplug the Map sensor it well kinda bog out then the idle will raise back up to normal and won't have the idle problem? Please help me
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Old 03-Nov-2015, 09:47 PM
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You sure that the sensor you're pulling is the MAP and not the IAT? Any mods done ever or recently? The MAP shouldn't cause this specific problem if it's bad, those symptoms would be very different. You're describing an issue common to the IAT and sometimes FITV on Honda's that have a FITV. (Intake Air Temp and Fast Idle Throttle Valve)

Sometimes cleaning the IAT and ports associated will fix the problem but usually this issue requires just replacing the IAT itself. This isn't a terribly hard job, the hardest parts being to remove all the air filter housing in the way, and properly bleeding the coolant after the lines are reconnected.

Google images and you'll find exactly where the MAP is to be certain if you're not already, as well the IAT and FITV, (I can't recall if your motor has that or not and may even be different depending on where the car was first sold)

Important things to check as well, is that a Vac leak somewhere? and what's the coolant level like? any air in the coolant may also cause this problem.
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Old 03-Nov-2015, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ol Dusty View Post
You sure that the sensor you're pulling is the MAP and not the IAT? Any mods done ever or recently? The MAP shouldn't cause this specific problem if it's bad, those symptoms would be very different. You're describing an issue common to the IAT and sometimes FITV on Honda's that have a FITV. (Intake Air Temp and Fast Idle Throttle Valve)

Sometimes cleaning the IAT and ports associated will fix the problem but usually this issue requires just replacing the IAT itself. This isn't a terribly hard job, the hardest parts being to remove all the air filter housing in the way, and properly bleeding the coolant after the lines are reconnected.

Google images and you'll find exactly where the MAP is to be certain if you're not already, as well the IAT and FITV, (I can't recall if your motor has that or not and may even be different depending on where the car was first sold)

Important things to check as well, is that a Vac leak somewhere? and what's the coolant level like? any air in the coolant may also cause this problem.


No I haven't done any mods , just replaced head gasket and no I'm pulling the map sensor its just weird , what should happen if the map sensor is bad ?
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Old 04-Nov-2015, 10:32 PM
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Well if the MAP is bad or even unplugged it should surge rapidly or at least that's usually what I see happen. It's a fairly easy sensor to change, and you can probably get one from a scrap yard for cheap, or used.

MAP is possible for sure, but the fact that you just changed the head gasket makes me lean more toward air pockets stuck in the coolant system. Some D series motors have a bleeder screw near the distributor, just where the upper rad hose connects to the head, if not than turn the rad cap loose till the 1st of 2 notches. Start the car, turn the heat to high but leave the fan speed to OFF. Place a rag or something similar hanging over the rad down so when the rad fan turns on, the rag blows away. Open the rad and see if it needs to be filled, also check the level in the reservoir. A coolant funnel, or even an old CV boot stuffed in the rad works great here. Rev the motor up to around 3 grand and hold it there till the fans come on. Now remove the funnel (top up the rad if you didn't have a funnel) and close the cap to the first notch or all the way if there's a bleed valve. Run the motor to 3 again, and hold till the fans come on, then close the cap, or open the bleeder, and watch for a steady stream, no bubbles and close it again.

If you are very, very careful, and use a bunch of rags, or a water proof/heat resistant glove etc, basically highly not recommended, but I've done this, when there is no bleeder valve, close the cap completely, and use it to burp the air like the bleeder would have. Just be aware the coolant is pressurised, only open it slowly to the first notch, it's pressurised and around 180-200 f.

This should make sure that coolant/air isn't the problem. Changing the MAP is probably easier tho, just find a used one in your area. If you know anyone local that mods/builds Honda's they probably have an extra laying around.
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Old 05-Nov-2015, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ol Dusty View Post
Well if the MAP is bad or even unplugged it should surge rapidly or at least that's usually what I see happen. It's a fairly easy sensor to change, and you can probably get one from a scrap yard for cheap, or used.

MAP is possible for sure, but the fact that you just changed the head gasket makes me lean more toward air pockets stuck in the coolant system. Some D series motors have a bleeder screw near the distributor, just where the upper rad hose connects to the head, if not than turn the rad cap loose till the 1st of 2 notches. Start the car, turn the heat to high but leave the fan speed to OFF. Place a rag or something similar hanging over the rad down so when the rad fan turns on, the rag blows away. Open the rad and see if it needs to be filled, also check the level in the reservoir. A coolant funnel, or even an old CV boot stuffed in the rad works great here. Rev the motor up to around 3 grand and hold it there till the fans come on. Now remove the funnel (top up the rad if you didn't have a funnel) and close the cap to the first notch or all the way if there's a bleed valve. Run the motor to 3 again, and hold till the fans come on, then close the cap, or open the bleeder, and watch for a steady stream, no bubbles and close it again.

If you are very, very careful, and use a bunch of rags, or a water proof/heat resistant glove etc, basically highly not recommended, but I've done this, when there is no bleeder valve, close the cap completely, and use it to burp the air like the bleeder would have. Just be aware the coolant is pressurised, only open it slowly to the first notch, it's pressurised and around 180-200 f.

This should make sure that coolant/air isn't the problem. Changing the MAP is probably easier tho, just find a used one in your area. If you know anyone local that mods/builds Honda's they probably have an extra laying around.
Thanks man I'll try that thanks for the advice do you think if I ever have any other problems you could help me out ?
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Old 05-Nov-2015, 09:52 PM
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Any problems you have, post up here and I'll do my best to help, or at the very least I'll point you in the right direction.
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Old 06-Nov-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ol Dusty View Post
Any problems you have, post up here and I'll do my best to help, or at the very least I'll point you in the right direction.
Thanks a lot man I appreciate it alot
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Old 20-Feb-2019, 09:11 AM
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Frankinste swap "mini me swap"

I have a y7 motor d series and want to do this whole swap with a IM AMD head from a y8 I get why I would swap the y8 head but what's with the reason for swapping the IM.. the people im buying my chipped ecu from said something about the iacv being 2 wired on the y8 opposed to 3 wired on the y7.. I am not sure what this means but I'm trying to figure out basically why I need the y8 IM they even said i can't take the chipped ecu they r selling me and make it work with my y7 IM I must have the y8....??? Why exactly...?
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