i need a beater for winter
28-Jul-2008, 09:53 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Brampton
Posts: 128
Sometimes you getting lucky and can pick up a cheap reliable car for next to nothing. Requires a bit of patience, I managed to pick up a 93 EJ1 for $400. Missing a few things but motor and tranny were great.
28-Jul-2008, 10:09 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 160
If you don't do that it is important to start and drive the car every 2 weeks or so.
29-Jul-2008, 05:57 AM
#23
Flushing out all the fluids, removing the battery and storing it in a sealed container. All the air from your tires will go flat may want some support to prevent bending the rims but not necessary.
If you don't do that it is important to start and drive the car every 2 weeks or so.
If you don't do that it is important to start and drive the car every 2 weeks or so.
well as i said, im gonna be rebuilding that motor all weekend then by the time spring comes im juss gonna toss some piece of crap motor under the hood until the turbod z6 is ready to go back in by summer i got a lot of help so things should go smooth
29-Jul-2008, 05:58 AM
#24
i guess i just have to get lucky but if anyone comes across a beater for 300 bucks in full working condition or only minor problems gimme a call or pm me...just remember i was loooking ahah
29-Jul-2008, 09:37 AM
#25
-- site donator --
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 6,647
Try kijiji. There are tons of cheap car's on there.
29-Jul-2008, 10:32 AM
#27
Flushing out all the fluids, removing the battery and storing it in a sealed container. All the air from your tires will go flat may want some support to prevent bending the rims but not necessary.
If you don't do that it is important to start and drive the car every 2 weeks or so.
If you don't do that it is important to start and drive the car every 2 weeks or so.
unless you have leaks in all 4 of your tires, they will not go flat. (you might want to jack it up so you dont get flat spots on the tires), but if they do happen, a long drive and they'll go away.
Just put some fuel stabilizer in the tank, run it for a few mins and it'll protect the motor, lines, and tank.
depending on where you store it, you might want to block off the exhaust pipe, mice can get in there and into the pistons.. (yeah, it can happen!)
29-Jul-2008, 12:21 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 160
I store 3 cars for the winter, and I'v never flushed the fluids out of the motor or removed the battery (just disconnected it)
unless you have leaks in all 4 of your tires, they will not go flat. (you might want to jack it up so you dont get flat spots on the tires), but if they do happen, a long drive and they'll go away.
Just put some fuel stabilizer in the tank, run it for a few mins and it'll protect the motor, lines, and tank.
depending on where you store it, you might want to block off the exhaust pipe, mice can get in there and into the pistons.. (yeah, it can happen!)
unless you have leaks in all 4 of your tires, they will not go flat. (you might want to jack it up so you dont get flat spots on the tires), but if they do happen, a long drive and they'll go away.
Just put some fuel stabilizer in the tank, run it for a few mins and it'll protect the motor, lines, and tank.
depending on where you store it, you might want to block off the exhaust pipe, mice can get in there and into the pistons.. (yeah, it can happen!)
PS I stored an M3 this winter for a friend and all four tires went flat, sma with my old DA.
29-Jul-2008, 12:48 PM
#29
But if you let the fluids from the engine just still there without any movement for 6 months try running an emissions test after that. Guarantee fail unless you clear up all the deposits and atleast run methyl hydrate it will not pass not run at its best.
PS I stored an M3 this winter for a friend and all four tires went flat, sma with my old DA.
PS I stored an M3 this winter for a friend and all four tires went flat, sma with my old DA.
BTW, if your tires went flat, theres something wrong.. they should not loose that much air.. maybe a few PSI, but not flat.
29-Jul-2008, 01:49 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Burlington
Posts: 235
I agree with Kracker. I stored my car outside in the winter, covered in snow for like 5 months.
All I did is take out the battery, or it will be dead. Have a full tank of fuel and some stabalizer. I didnt start my car at all, since I heard its worse for the motor.
The car started no problem in the spring, took it for a drive and got rid of all the rust off the rotors, and she's all good.
All I did is take out the battery, or it will be dead. Have a full tank of fuel and some stabalizer. I didnt start my car at all, since I heard its worse for the motor.
The car started no problem in the spring, took it for a drive and got rid of all the rust off the rotors, and she's all good.
29-Jul-2008, 02:01 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 903
I've heard many complaning stories about peoples cars not starting and people coming and asking me why. I take the safe route. But if you let the fluids from the engine just still there without any movement for 6 months try running an emissions test after that. Guarantee fail unless you clear up all the deposits and atleast run methyl hydrate it will not pass not run at its best.
PS I stored an M3 this winter for a friend and all four tires went flat, sma with my old DA.
PS I stored an M3 this winter for a friend and all four tires went flat, sma with my old DA.
29-Jul-2008, 04:02 PM
#33
you could even start the car and let it idle till its at operating temperature at least once a month. then come spring time change the oil, and dont drive the car hard until the stabilizer is out of your gas lines.
29-Jul-2008, 09:58 PM
#35
some ridiculous claims in here. 1st of all, if he wants a winter beater, it's his choice. 2nd, i store my car... well really most of the time, it's been driven like maybe 15-20 times since 2002. the tires don't go flat, there are no problems passing emission tests, or whatever. i put it up on jackstands, and I do maintenance on it all the time in accordance to honda recommendations for time intervals (like change the oil, rad fluid, etc etc etc) and hook up a battery trickle charger. i'd rather have a mint rust free car with some varnish on the injectors than a year round rustbucket. but that's just me cuz i prefer old cars to new ones.
to the OP, only store your car and spend money rebuilding it if it's rust free. otherwise, spend that money on a rust free car from arizona or nevada and use your current car as a winter beater, just swap all the parts over to the rust free car.
to the OP, only store your car and spend money rebuilding it if it's rust free. otherwise, spend that money on a rust free car from arizona or nevada and use your current car as a winter beater, just swap all the parts over to the rust free car.
30-Jul-2008, 02:46 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North York
Posts: 33
If you're storing for an extended period of time, I'd let it sit for the alloted period of time and NOT turn it over every month. Pull the battery in the fall and come back in the spring, connect it back up, and turn it over.
Think about cold starts. I'd rather have one cold start as opposed to strains with 6 cold starts over 6 months. Also, for you to clear the exhaust of carbon deposits you'd have to drive the car to get it up to operating temperature... idling it in place, will do nothing to clear condesation, and might even help mess **** up.
Someone already mentioned it, but if your car already shows signs of rust, drive it as a beater and get something else.
Think about cold starts. I'd rather have one cold start as opposed to strains with 6 cold starts over 6 months. Also, for you to clear the exhaust of carbon deposits you'd have to drive the car to get it up to operating temperature... idling it in place, will do nothing to clear condesation, and might even help mess **** up.
Someone already mentioned it, but if your car already shows signs of rust, drive it as a beater and get something else.
30-Jul-2008, 03:52 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: mother land
Posts: 1,015
31-Jul-2008, 11:09 AM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Civic EJ1: I know someone who wants to get rid of an old Buick, not sure of the year ... but it's a Buick :| Heavy car, big engine. Lot's of KMs, but everything works solid, no AC, but has heat. Person is also a very meticulous type of person, so it's been taken care of and will have no trouble in winter. Let me know, if you have interest, and I can perhaps talk to the guy. I'm sure it'll be cheap as he can't drive anymore. 
And as for the people who are going on about storing the car, here's some tips from the user manual itself:
And as for the people who are going on about storing the car, here's some tips from the user manual itself:
If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.
• Fill the fuel tank.
• Change the engine oil and filter
• Wash and dry the exterior completely.
• Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.
• Leave the parking brake off.
• Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speedmanual) or Park (automatic).
• Block the rear wheels.
• If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
• Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).
• Disconnect the battery.
• Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.
• To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a vehicle body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.
• Cover the car with a ‘‘breathable’’ cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton.
• Non porous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint.
• If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).
• Fill the fuel tank.
• Change the engine oil and filter
• Wash and dry the exterior completely.
• Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.
• Leave the parking brake off.
• Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speedmanual) or Park (automatic).
• Block the rear wheels.
• If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jack stands so the tires are off the ground.
• Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).
• Disconnect the battery.
• Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.
• To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a vehicle body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.
• Cover the car with a ‘‘breathable’’ cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton.
• Non porous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint.
• If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).
