Ugh! The most bothersome squeal
21-Oct-2009, 08:20 PM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
22-Oct-2009, 02:05 AM
#25
Thanks guys, Ive got the parts and will have to install them this weekend once i get time, for now the squeaking has gone done a bit so I hope it lasts till then. Thanks again.
btw... anybody experienced seized ball joints on a Honda, if so... any easy fix? I like to know these things prior to running into the problem "blind folded"
btw... anybody experienced seized ball joints on a Honda, if so... any easy fix? I like to know these things prior to running into the problem "blind folded"
22-Oct-2009, 10:49 AM
#27
Thanks, I assumed as much, just wondering if there were any easy tricks anyone knew of... had to heat up my spring bolts connecting the down and midpipes... that was another bothersome task, but got it done.
PS... Ive seen some videos where guys have used C clamps to put the new BJs in and other where they'll place a block of wood atop it and gently hammer... which route will I be going, either way Im prepared, just don't want to ruin the new ones?
PS... Ive seen some videos where guys have used C clamps to put the new BJs in and other where they'll place a block of wood atop it and gently hammer... which route will I be going, either way Im prepared, just don't want to ruin the new ones?
23-Oct-2009, 02:30 AM
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Over here, Over there
Posts: 166
Thanks, I assumed as much, just wondering if there were any easy tricks anyone knew of... had to heat up my spring bolts connecting the down and midpipes... that was another bothersome task, but got it done.
PS... Ive seen some videos where guys have used C clamps to put the new BJs in and other where they'll place a block of wood atop it and gently hammer... which route will I be going, either way Im prepared, just don't want to ruin the new ones?
PS... Ive seen some videos where guys have used C clamps to put the new BJs in and other where they'll place a block of wood atop it and gently hammer... which route will I be going, either way Im prepared, just don't want to ruin the new ones?
A c-clamp and a HUGE deep-socket (big enough to fit the ball-joint in) would probably be the best bet as its not as destructive as smashing the joint with a hammer...even with a piece of wood.
23-Oct-2009, 09:11 PM
#29
Please elaborate? Thanks.
24-Oct-2009, 11:51 AM
#30
when you compress the c clamp to push the BJ through. one half of the clamp is pushing down on the BJ. where is the other half gonna go? the other side of the BJ? no. you need a large socket (key hole saw drill bits will not be strong enough) to go on the other side of the hole for the clamp to push on it forcing the bj down into the hole nice and square. when you go to do it, look at it with out the socket, where would you put the clamp to move the bj? you'll understand when your doing it.
24-Oct-2009, 02:56 PM
#31
when you compress the c clamp to push the BJ through. one half of the clamp is pushing down on the BJ. where is the other half gonna go? the other side of the BJ? no. you need a large socket (key hole saw drill bits will not be strong enough) to go on the other side of the hole for the clamp to push on it forcing the bj down into the hole nice and square. when you go to do it, look at it with out the socket, where would you put the clamp to move the bj? you'll understand when your doing it.
Quick question, hope someones around... from the looks of it Ive got to take the lower control arm apart as well just to get at this thing eh?
24-Oct-2009, 03:37 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 60
the easiest way to do this if you have no hoist is the remove the spindle so you have room to work on the joint. Use a 32mm socket that you would be using on the axle anyway to hammer in the ball joint. When removing ball joints some aftermarket ball joints have c-clips which you need to remove.
24-Oct-2009, 08:11 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
Undo lower bj nut, seperate from LCA.
Undo axle nut, remove axle from hub.
Undo tie rod, seperate from steering arm
Flip the knuckle 180deg. and bash the balljoint upwards.
Use a c-clamp with large socket to 'press' the new one in.
24-Oct-2009, 10:18 PM
#34
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 60
If he's not using a hoist bashing upward will only work if the ball joints not seized in so bad. Your better off removing the upper ball joint nut as well and just pulling off the whole spindle I find it ALOT easier if your working on a car were everything's rusted to ****.
Good luck
Good luck
29-Oct-2009, 11:44 AM
#35
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cool World
Posts: 778
possibly seized ball joints or tie rods is my first guess. If any of the dust boots have been split open dirt and road splash can easily enter and cause this scenario.
I would jack the front end up and remove the wheel and have someone turn the steering wheel. You may have to unload the ball joint by jacking up the lower control arm ( simulating ride height ).
I would jack the front end up and remove the wheel and have someone turn the steering wheel. You may have to unload the ball joint by jacking up the lower control arm ( simulating ride height ).
29-Oct-2009, 04:37 PM
#36
allllllllllllllllllllright.... the car won this battle, took off the tire and saw the setup and simply bowed my head.
I'm an amateur at this stuff I will truly admit it, I can do this and that but this seemed a bit too much, remove this and that and this and that... not to mention the CV joint right above the thing, I was intimidated.
SO... How much??
Ball joints only?
Ball joint & Tie rods? (inner outer) [i can do outer dont know how to do inner though)
Ball joints, Tie rods & upper camber (BJ)?
Thanks!
I'm an amateur at this stuff I will truly admit it, I can do this and that but this seemed a bit too much, remove this and that and this and that... not to mention the CV joint right above the thing, I was intimidated.
SO... How much??
Ball joints only?
Ball joint & Tie rods? (inner outer) [i can do outer dont know how to do inner though)
Ball joints, Tie rods & upper camber (BJ)?
Thanks!
29-Oct-2009, 05:43 PM
#38
29-Oct-2009, 08:20 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
Times are taken right off Mitchell OnDemand (most shops use these labour rates)
Lower balljoint 1.2h each
Upper balljoint 1.0
Outer tie rod 0.9
Inner tie rod an extra 0.3
These times do not include alignments.
If you want to bring your vehicle to my shop, I can give you a better price then most shops around the GTA. And as always, with me working on the vehicle, you know it'll be done properly.
Lower balljoint 1.2h each
Upper balljoint 1.0
Outer tie rod 0.9
Inner tie rod an extra 0.3
These times do not include alignments.
If you want to bring your vehicle to my shop, I can give you a better price then most shops around the GTA. And as always, with me working on the vehicle, you know it'll be done properly.
29-Oct-2009, 11:30 PM
#40
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Over here, Over there
Posts: 166
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