.. wow mike.. it's nice to see a proper build =)

u got ahold of a b20 now too eh :) . good luck!

^You're building a b20 as well?

Seems to be a popular choice...lol

no im not doing it,im getting one for a friend. im still going to boost my b16 and get a hold of a h2b euro-r and build it n/a then swap it into something.

ahh, cool. Make a build thread when you get those projects started. Always enjoy seeing builds take shape... :)

big update with pics!
 

Well... last summer I had to replace the clutch in my b16. All I needed was another flywheel to go along with it so I bought an exedy 8lb wheel from some guy for $100. Bolted to that flywheel was a blown b20 block with ARP head studs. I could also see it had high compression pistons but they were toast...

This past Saturday I set out to pull this b20 apart to see what’s what. To my surprise I found the following:

-Knife-edged/machined and balanced crank
-ARP rod bolts
-Eagle H-beam rods (PN 5394 BHO)
-Unknown high compression pistons (which you will see in the pics, are all junk)

The crank and rods are still in near perfect condition. Bearings do not look like they were destroyed by piston bits flying off, but will inspect more closely when I get a chance. I’ll use plastigauge upon re-assembly to see if I need new bearings.

The block is ok, but the cylinders are done. They would need to be bored out AT LEAST 0.5mm or more… and at that, I wouldn’t bother making an already weak block, weaker…lol.

The B18 and B20 use the same crank and rods from factory, so now I’m set with a nice crank and crazy-strong rods! Muahahaha!!!

Time to pick some new pistons…. I’m looking for about 9.5 or 10:1 compression, nothing crazy. I want it to be high enough to run NA and put down some decent numbers, but also not so high that I can’t run too much boost. Will have to do some research and see which pistons would be best.

Anyways here are the latest pics from the B20 tear-down. Enjoy. :)

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Moar pics!!!

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stellar mike!!!
im loving the udates!

nice looking build Mike. I should post pics of the toasted D slugs I pulled of my eagle rods for my build. rods are minty but the pistons... it's a shame when people spend a ton on the build and don't tune it properly. unless like you or me your the guy that gets the barerly used parts left over cheap becasue the original owner has been discouraged by their recent loss. course I too am sitting on a ton of parts from a motor i had built when i first started and should have tuned despiter the fact many people told me with the mild work I was doing to it that that wasn't necessary.

Lookign forward to your completion. when mines done I'm also shooting for the ~250hp range, slightly lighter car but we'll have to run at Cayuga. I'm not really about drag stuff but I'll wanna runa few time just to see what the car runs in the 1320.

^Sounds good! Track day for sure! ;)

I asked the previous owner if they had swapped the water pump and oil pump to the one from a vtec motor (it was a b20 vtec motor) and he said probably not or he wasn't sure.

So I'm guessing it was a combination of poor tuning and a stock b20 water pump that would have cavitated in the high rpm range... I can tell it hadn't been running long before the pistons vaporized...

wicccccckked, congrats man.
Can't wait to see what numbers she'll put down

The Megasquirt II stand alone ecu kit came this week! :)

You'll see in the pic it comes as a bare PCB (printed circuit board) and dozens of little bags filled with all kinds of resistors, transistors, capacitors, etc... It's a little overwhelming at first when you see how many componets there are and how many locations there are on the board for them all to fit. As long as you have the inclination, proper tools and a steady hand, once you learn how to solder the components on, it becomes a piece of cake! It is tidious and delicate work and you must follow each and every step of the instructions very carefully. I started building it last night, took my time and so far it's going quite well.

A lot of you honda guys will be freaking out and questioning why I didn't go the route of chipped OBD1 ecu. Well there are several reasons why I chose this route:

-It is BY FAR the least expensive option for any stand alone engine management system and every bit as capable and powerful as any big-name super-expensive system that all the dyno-queens use, like AEM EMS and Greddy...etc. You will spend 3 or 4 time more money on one of those big-name systems to do the exact same thing the Megasquirt can do.
-I can tune my car when ever and where ever I want with my own laptop. This is a HUGE money saver since I do not have to take it to someone and pay them to re-tune every time I change something with my setup.
-Tuning software is 100% free and open source. This means anyone who has the ability can create their own tuning software or make changes/improvements to already existing tuning software. The latest and best current program for tuning the MS is called Tunerstudio and has a very powerful, accurate and effective auto tune feature which allows for much quicker and easier tuning.
-By going with MS I am not limited to only tuning hondas. I can install and tune ANY engine in ANY vehicle. Just for an example; My firends MS2 system in the MR2 was litterally reinstalled into his V8 swapped fiero for ice racing. Thats a 1.6L turbo 4 cylinder to a 4.9 NA V8. He performed a quick auto tune and some manual tuning and went on to win his class (rwd street stud) this past season.

So you can see, the price is right and the capability is limitless.

Now here's a pic of how it comes, unassembled.
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For those that may want to know, the cost for a pre-assembled board is WAY more than it's worth. It's really not that difficult to assemble, you just have to be very careful and take your time.

I'll post up more pics once it's complete.

Cheers. :)

Oh and one other update, I've decided on building the b18 block since it's still in good condition, with the b20 crank/rods etc. The b20 block is just too far gone to fix. The cylinders would require either being re-sleeved which is expensive, or being bored out at least 1mm which would take away strength from the already weak block. So B18 LS-VTEC it is!

Hey MIke......sick bro freaking sick...

Question! What kind of VTEC engage timing? I am thinking since its turbo engine 3200rpm? quick spool set up and early vtec time = sexy time right right am I right?

wow! amazing! MOAR when possible!!

Not quite...lol.

When vtec engages, it increases lift, duration and over lap. All of that is good for higher rpm NA power. More lift is great, but more duration and over lap is not great for forced induction because what happens is some of the compressed air coming into the cylinder will blow right through and out the exhaust before the exhaust valve closes. This wastes fuel and decreases the maximum amount of fuel/air that can be squeezed in the cylinder. With forced induction it's best to minimize the overlap (time between when the intake valves first open and the exhaust valves close.

As for vtec engagement, without getting into a huge long explanation, big cams aren't efficient at lower rpms. Basically, there is no gain in engaging vtec earlier. In fact you may end up losing power. I'll probably experiment with vtec engagement between 5000 and 6000rpm. Any higher and it'll start to fall off the efficiency range of the econo-cams and any lower and it'll fall below the efficiency range of the vtec cams.

^^ in short, Honda spent a lot of $$$ to engineer the cams and valve timing as well as vtec engagment, How much better do you think you can make it?

^^^ Exactly. :nod:

mike > honda engineers

^lol... I wish...