MPR's Engine Build **Updated July 14th 2011**
 

Started an LS-VTEC turbo build. I’ll update as the project progresses for any that are interested. It'll be a long build, probably over a year until it's ready to go in the car...

Picked up a b18b…high mileage but still in half-decent condition. You’ll see in the pics the thick carbon deposits on the pistons….eewww! Once I get the pistons out it’ll be easier to determine if any boring or new pistons will be required. Cylinder liners look not bad…

Here’s the list for the build:

*List updated - March 10th 2011*

LS block (resurfaced/honed).
Crank - Knife-edged/machined/balanced.
Rods - Eage H-beam 5394 BHO.
Pistons - Unknown yet.
All ARP hardware (main bearing, rod, head bolts).
B16A2 head (resurfaced/3-angle valve job/new valve seals) – stock cams/valve train
OEM head gasket.
B18c1 timing belt/water pump/oil pump.
Exedy 8lb flywheel with Exedy stage 2 ceramic (3-puck) clutch.
Custom oil lines.
Custom MPR charge piping.
Custom MPR down pipe/exhaust.
Turbo – Mitsubishi TD04L-13T (factory turbo from an '03 WRX) or T3-60trim (mid 80's Nissan 300ZX)
Intercooler – unknown yet.
Turbo manifold – unknown yet – possibly home-made.
Waste gate – unknown yet. - possibly Prosche external.
BOV – bosch - oem bov from Porsche 911 turbo (currently used on MR2 turbo).
Boost controller – AC Delco boost pressure control solenoid (from 91 GMC Cyclone), controlled by Megasquirt
Engine management – MSII (Megasquirt) with Innovate MTXL Wide band sensor/gauge/module - tuned by MPR.
All custom fabrication and assembly by MPR.
DSM fuel injectors.
Edelbrock FPR.
255 lph fuel pump.

Lost of pics to come...

Thanks for looking. :D

Mike.

This is what I've been waiting for HA HA =)

you're not gonna un-turbo that MR-2 are you?

Oh yes, this should be good!

Subscribed! :D

very nice, i cant wat to see this build in progress!

LOL, oh yeah forgot to mention the most important part...

Since this is my daily driver and I need it to be reliable as the sun, I've done my research and decided on a modest power goal of 250whp. I know for a fact this setup is capable of 300whp+ (check hivelocity's website/dyno sheets), but again, it's got to last and not be breaking stuff all the time... like the MR2...lol.

Boost will probably be in the range of 7-10psi (or what ever it needs to make 250whp). I also don't plan on using a huge honkin dyno-queen turbo... Quick spooling and strong mid-range as well as a good top end is what this build is about.

I'm taking my time with this build to make sure everything is done right.

Pics coming in 3...2...

Alrighty, here are the pics so far:

The LS B18B:
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Mmmmmm...big thick boost-hungry cylinder sleeves... :)
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Will post more pics after I get the pistons/rods/crank out.

damn this is gettin me excited haha..

Love it Love it Love it :D:D:D

I've always been curious what the lsvtec boost build works =)
will be my future plans as well

Looks good, Michael.
Lots of work, but you must be enjoying each part of it. ;)

sweeet. cant wait for updates!

also just imo i love this thing. YouTube - hks super sqv (sequential blow off valve) sound
i know it really doesnt add any hp but holy crap thats a jizz per shift.

Got one question, what's the point of doing Ls-V for 250whp goal?
Though I understand that by using vtec head there is less psi required to get to the power goal compared to the stock ls, but why?

To begin with, you are raising compression as you use a vtec head no? Also seems like you are loading it with more stress than is needed. Plain stock ls can handle 250whp safe.

Also, what transmission are you planning on using?

All very good questions, Martin.

First off, according to c-speedracing.com and their honda b-series compression calculator, even with a gsr head (which gives the highest cr of all the vtec heads) the cr with stock ls pistons will be between 9.5 and 9.8:1 I believe. That is still very boost-friendly cr. Stock ls cr is 9.2:1, so there's not really any added stress.

When comparing heads, the stock ls head (even with p&p) can't touch any of the vtec heads for flow, especially on the secondary vtec cam lobes. The vtec heads flow so much better and it's that much easier to make more power when you can get the air in and out more efficiently. Another plus for the vtec head is the un-even primary cam lobes. Where the 2 primary lobes are different profiles so that each of the two intake and exhaust valves open and close at different amounts to induce higher swirl (more turbulence) in the combustion chamber for better atomization of the fuel and higher efficiency. Thus, killer fuel mileage and "moderate" mid-range torque. Then the big secondary vtec cam lobes kick in and all hell breaks loose as all valves open longer and farther for higher volumetric flow which = more top end power.

Yes it can make 250 with the ls head, but it would require more boost, the top end would not be as strong and it would not be as efficient.

Since this is for a daily driver, my main focus is on efficiency, reliability, longevity and of course, to still make lots of jam! lol :wink:

Most likely be using my stock SiR 5 speed trans.

I recently lost compression on my GSR and now in need of a new motor!
I was planing on doing the same thing and now i stumbled upon this ! very nice !
exactly what i was looking for.
I am getting a low-km complete LS block and was thinking of putting my GSR head on top for the sweat Vtec flow and high end power OR just boosting the LS as-is (not sure yet). Since money is tight this is happening in my garage at home with a bunch of knowledgeable friends.
My power goal is to get around 230hp - 250hp and yes it will be my daily driver.

Should I go the LS-Vtec direction or just Boost the LS as-is ? Keeping in mind I need the car back on the road ASAP and i am on a tight budget.

This is giving me a lot of info that I need for my build as-well !
Thanks a lot, keep it up !

Anytime boost is affiliated with a engine your compromising reliability, unless your one of the few who actually knows how to drive/operate a turbo engine. When I see tight budget I see the LS-Vtec being better for you.

Mike keep up the good work man! and are those the rims you painted? If they are got more pics on that?

What you should do first is find out why it lost compression. If it's anything to do with the head/valve train, then you're stuck with the standard LS motor. But that engine with stock internals can make 230-250whp turbo'd with a proper tune...

If the gsr head is good, then slap that sucker on the LS block and just tune it NA. Should give you around 160whp NA (about equal to or more then what the stock gsr makes) and would be the quickest/cheapest solution for your situation. If money is that tight, I don't recommend boosting it...it's not cheap and you can't use cheap parts or it will not be reliable. If you can afford it, the gsr head with boost would be the best, most efficient and reliable setup to reach your boosted power goal of 230-250whp.

Research research research, use high quality parts, make sure everything is installed/assembled properly and have it tuned properly by someone who really knows what they're doing.

Good luck with your build! Let us know how things work out. :)

I did a compression test on my gsr motor and the results are :
Cyl 1: 181 psi, cyl 2: 180 psi, cyl 3: 182 psi, cyl 4: 90 psi.
By pouring in motor oil through the spark plug opening of cyl 4 and doing the compression test it increased to 120 psi meaning the piston rings are gone. right ?
so my head should be good !

and i have to go boost, i have been driving around NA for too long. i hear you on buying quality parts so what i can do is get the LS and pop it in so the car gets bk on the road for now and then start buying parts as money comes in and then through it all in hopefully before summers end!

and how hard is it to put the gsr head on the LS ? bolt on ?
gota start reading up on that now

There is a good DIY on c-speedracing.com for the LS/b20 vtec conversions. There's a bit more to it then just bolting the head on.

If you are going to put your gsr head on it, I advise you to do it with the engine out of the car. You'll want to install new gsr water pump/timing belt as well as an oil pump from a gsr/b16a/b18c5. It is WAY WAY easier to do these things while the engine is out of the car...trust me. lol

And yeah, sounds like cylinder #4 is dead...:sad: haha.

thanks alot MPR and others !
the GSR motor is out and the LS motor is coming in today.
hopefully i'll have the gsr head on it in couple days.
i'll check that website out for info.
Thanks again