awesome_jay

hey guys,

I'm just starting to look at a 95 cx hatch i got and my first problem is that it keeps blowing the underhood fuse for the brakelights. as soon as i put a new 20A fuse in it pops. anyone have an idea where i should start?

thanks

Evilkilla

are u sure it uses 20A?, also what type of bulbs are you using? oem? led?, if problem continues i recommend a voltage stablizer. my buddies ride had the same electrical problem same fuse kept popping after he changed the battery.. he got a voltage stablizer BAM problem solved... smoother ride, as it solves other problems as well

also PS maybe your just using cheap fuses

ryan_77

iTrader: (2)

mite have a wire making contact with the frame, have you taken out the taillights recently and out them back in or any other elctrical things in your car?

Trybal

Sounds like a shortout or power overload. Are you running an amp off your brakelights?

awesome_jay

thanks for the replies. i just got the car today from the seller. as far as i know nothing is running off the circuit for the brakes. the car is stock. I havent done anything yet. i did pop open the panels for the lights in the hatch area and seems the brake light wiring has electrical tape like the wiring was redone, doesnt come from factory like that does it? even from 1995?

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

looks like somone got slice happy
u have a short some where... check your connections, a multimeter is your best friend

Midori

yeah one of the + is being grounded... you might even be able to find it by put in a fuse while you look at the wires. where it sparks is where you have a problem.

Or just redo the wires cleanly and put in a new fuse and cross your fingers.

awesome_jay

ok little update, i have disconnected all the connectors for the lights in the rear of the car. still blowing fuses. so at least i know its not the lights or light housings in the rear. according the manual the horn is also run off this circuit.

how would i go about using a multimeter? i have one but its been a longtime since electronics class. where do i check with the multimeter?

Trybal

Everything in a car runs off 12v DC power. Black to ground, red to positive.

awesome_jay

ok so i have it isolated where it only happens when i press the horn on the steering wheel it blows the fuse. i'm trying to figure out the wiring and also take out the old *** clifford alarm thats also installed in the car. who ever did the wiring for the alarm was terrible. The wires are just twisted around a cut in the plastic of the existing wires and taped with electrical tape.

awesome_jay

ok gay 1995 alarm out of car, brake lights work, horn is blowing the fuse. couldnt find the ground location in the driver side kick panel area. i'm assuming thats the grounding point the wiring for the horn would use?

awesome_jay

ok i need some help, i bought a new horn, installed it. when i press the horn on the steering wheel nothing happens, doesnt blow a fuse but doesnt work either. also i dont have headlights anymore, i have running lights but when i turn on the headlights or highbeams nothing happens, also dont have the light for the speedo anymore. i checked all the fuses in the under hood fuse box and in the under dash fuse box and none are blown. turning signals work though. i have checked the wiring in the under hood fuse box.

from what i understand the horn is a constant 12v ? i hooked up my multimeter in 12v battery test mode and touched the two wires for the horn and the multimeter read 0. shouldnt this read 12v?

i need help with what to look for?

awesome_jay

the following works:
-dash lights for battery, oil, turn signals, seatbelt, parking break
-all other dash lights , heat, rear defroster.

doesnt work:
-headlights
-light on dash for highbeams
-highbeams
-horn
-gauge backlight

i've double checked all fuses. none are burnt

Midori

all are related to alarm install. I bet that where the problem started and will end.. I suggest junkyard and buy new harnesses...no more tape job just straight up unmolested oem