will a sway bar change, change ride height
#1
will a sway bar change, change ride height
Hi guys, does any of you know if a sway bar change, or in my case removal change the ride height? I want to get an alignemnt done, but my car is still understeering like mad, and I want to experiement with removing my front sway bar. Will it drop the front end slightly? Thanks. Ryan
#3
Sway bar does not change the stance of the vehicle.
Regular street driving shouldn't experience under or over that much. But without the front, you will experience over for sure. How big of rear are you running? 14"? 22"? Is your front 26"?
Regular street driving shouldn't experience under or over that much. But without the front, you will experience over for sure. How big of rear are you running? 14"? 22"? Is your front 26"?
#4
I'm running the stock GS integra rear bar. Its fairly small. I'm trying to cut understeer on a budget, and it pushes too much to do it with tire pressure. I was soloing locally last weekend, and I had a ton of plow. The car has more power than anything ive solo'd before, mostly hatchbacks, so I might have been over driving it. Its got 450 lb springs up front, so the best option would be softer springs, but at 200 for the pair from eibach, its cheaper to play the sway bar game.
#5
I'd suggest you might want to step up to the CTR rear bar. It's 22mm which is a good deal thicker that the GS one (14 I beleive). I got mine for 50 bucks which works in terms of budget and desired effect. But in order to run it you would need at least least the Beaks Kit or what Charles and I both have, the ASR subframe plate.
I may be getting rid of my sway bar soon...The idea of a 32 mm rear sway bar is tempting.
I may be getting rid of my sway bar soon...The idea of a 32 mm rear sway bar is tempting.
#8
as described, a large rear sway bar will help the rear of the car rotate. Popular ones are 22mm CTR or US/Can ITR or the 23mm JDM ITR. Don't forget to beef up the subframe with ASR brace (ideal) or atleast a beaks kit or you'll tear the hell out of it in no time.
Sway bar has zero effect on ride height or stiffness of ride.
With a 22mm rear sway bar, sudden lifts off the gas can cause some rotation if the steering wheel is turned.
Your best bet though, is not a larger rear sway...but better tires. Falken Azenis RT-615 or better will be more noticeable.
The 1.6EL comes standard with the 13mm civic SIR rear sway bar, not the 14mm Integra one.
also, you want stiffer springs in the rear for auto-x, so 450 up front, unless your atleast close to that in the rear, that car is set-up to understeer more with spring rates chosen.
Sway bar has zero effect on ride height or stiffness of ride.
With a 22mm rear sway bar, sudden lifts off the gas can cause some rotation if the steering wheel is turned.
Your best bet though, is not a larger rear sway...but better tires. Falken Azenis RT-615 or better will be more noticeable.
The 1.6EL comes standard with the 13mm civic SIR rear sway bar, not the 14mm Integra one.
also, you want stiffer springs in the rear for auto-x, so 450 up front, unless your atleast close to that in the rear, that car is set-up to understeer more with spring rates chosen.
#10
tHANKS A LOT GUYS, wow caps lock. Yeah Just for budgets sake, I might stay with the springs, and dial in a touch of toe in up front, with 1.5 deg negative camber with the Camber blocks. The rear camber is almost zero.
#11
Toe-in on the rear tires will make your car go straight. If you want to induce oversteer, you gotta go toe-out.
At your car's current stage, I would lower the front tires to 28 psi and pump the rear to 40 to 45 psi. If you have snow tires, put them in the front since they will be easier to melt in hotter temperature, making your rear tires unable to grip and thus, oversteer.
If you have strut bars, take out the front one.
Most likely, you will be in 2nd gear all the way, also, give left-foot braking a try. By doing so, you keep your front tires spin (which makes them grip the tarmac), slow down at the corner and lock up your rear tires. This combo should also induce oversteer.
At your car's current stage, I would lower the front tires to 28 psi and pump the rear to 40 to 45 psi. If you have snow tires, put them in the front since they will be easier to melt in hotter temperature, making your rear tires unable to grip and thus, oversteer.
If you have strut bars, take out the front one.
Most likely, you will be in 2nd gear all the way, also, give left-foot braking a try. By doing so, you keep your front tires spin (which makes them grip the tarmac), slow down at the corner and lock up your rear tires. This combo should also induce oversteer.
#14
cool, I like lots of negative rear camber...like -2 degrees or more....for high speed cornering.
Funny thing, my car is lowered 2" with eibachs and has about -2 Degrees camber in the rear but my rear tires are wareing down normally.... lol.
Funny thing, my car is lowered 2" with eibachs and has about -2 Degrees camber in the rear but my rear tires are wareing down normally.... lol.
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