turbo'd d16y8 mileage question...
01-Aug-2006, 09:36 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Tdot
Posts: 441
turbo'd d16y8 mileage question...
hey guys, i plan to turbo my d16y8, plan to buy the turbo n some parts this friday, a TD04 turbo(off a 1g DSM talon auto), a small turbo. Anyway, i have my reasons for turbo, and crazy power is not it, but one thing befo rei do go through this, is gas mileage...
some ppl have told me that i will lose alot of mileage...i've been reading around, some ppl have told me(remember, told me, not me reading somewhere), that i'll probably get around 300km/tank....
i did some research, and found this statement from a thread in Turbod16.com:
turbo=more effeciency part throttle. Your gas milage actually improves with a turbo
here is the link to that thread, just scroll down and you'll see it,
http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.ph...milage+mileage
those ppl thereare listing their mileages, one guy put 400-450km/tank(only one there to post with KM, the rest were MPG), n most ppl were around 30PMG...now if i calculated it right,
(30X1.6)/3.78 = approx. 12.69km/L...so on 35L(assuming u fill up with 35L), thas about 444km/tank!...now i get about 500km/tank(mostly city stop n go driving, not too much highway except going to school twice a week)...now...can anyone back this up with personal experience?
this is for a D16 specifically, not including B series n others...
anyone have personal experience with a d16y8 turbo? and does the size of the turbo/amount of boost affect gas mileage?
i know it sounds ghetto tryin to get some mileage when i want to turbo it, but again, i'm not in this for pure power...i have my reasons, and gas mileage is one thing i dont want to lose, well i dont mind losing some, but not like half the mileage per tank lol thas just insane lol...
oh and some people have been posting on other turbod16 threads about not using boost in 1-3rd gears and only on 4th n 5th at high RPMS...is this controllable? from what i thought, the turbo spools up when u start to accellerate, and eventually hits full boost...but i'd never read anything about NOT being in boost for certain gears, someone on the same website also mentioned only boosting in 1-3rd gears and NOT 4th n 5th...
some of u are gonna tell me to do more research, this turbo setup is a leraning process for me, i was gonna buy parts slowly as i learned what they do, so dont flame me! lol
my main concern right now is gas mileage...
bottom line:
some ppl on TCC have said u'll lose a whole lot of gas mileage, but all over that turbod16 website, ppl are talkin about 30mpg n such...unless i calculated it wrong...lol
but yea...any constructive and useful input is welcome
some ppl have told me that i will lose alot of mileage...i've been reading around, some ppl have told me(remember, told me, not me reading somewhere), that i'll probably get around 300km/tank....
i did some research, and found this statement from a thread in Turbod16.com:
turbo=more effeciency part throttle. Your gas milage actually improves with a turbo
here is the link to that thread, just scroll down and you'll see it,
http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.ph...milage+mileage
those ppl thereare listing their mileages, one guy put 400-450km/tank(only one there to post with KM, the rest were MPG), n most ppl were around 30PMG...now if i calculated it right,
(30X1.6)/3.78 = approx. 12.69km/L...so on 35L(assuming u fill up with 35L), thas about 444km/tank!...now i get about 500km/tank(mostly city stop n go driving, not too much highway except going to school twice a week)...now...can anyone back this up with personal experience?
this is for a D16 specifically, not including B series n others...
anyone have personal experience with a d16y8 turbo? and does the size of the turbo/amount of boost affect gas mileage?
i know it sounds ghetto tryin to get some mileage when i want to turbo it, but again, i'm not in this for pure power...i have my reasons, and gas mileage is one thing i dont want to lose, well i dont mind losing some, but not like half the mileage per tank lol thas just insane lol...
oh and some people have been posting on other turbod16 threads about not using boost in 1-3rd gears and only on 4th n 5th at high RPMS...is this controllable? from what i thought, the turbo spools up when u start to accellerate, and eventually hits full boost...but i'd never read anything about NOT being in boost for certain gears, someone on the same website also mentioned only boosting in 1-3rd gears and NOT 4th n 5th...
some of u are gonna tell me to do more research, this turbo setup is a leraning process for me, i was gonna buy parts slowly as i learned what they do, so dont flame me! lol
my main concern right now is gas mileage...
bottom line:
some ppl on TCC have said u'll lose a whole lot of gas mileage, but all over that turbod16 website, ppl are talkin about 30mpg n such...unless i calculated it wrong...lol
but yea...any constructive and useful input is welcome
01-Aug-2006, 10:48 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Tdot
Posts: 441
oh ok, so on normal daily driving, i shift at like...3k? is 400km/tank realistic?
and do you have a big turbo? i was gonna buy a small(TD04) turbo this week and use that...and i plan to use standalone fuel management, since tuning is the most important part.
with proper tuning, i'm guessing that getting 400km/tank on my regular daily driving should be attainable yes?
and do you have a big turbo? i was gonna buy a small(TD04) turbo this week and use that...and i plan to use standalone fuel management, since tuning is the most important part.
with proper tuning, i'm guessing that getting 400km/tank on my regular daily driving should be attainable yes?
02-Aug-2006, 12:14 AM
#7
in addition to what I said in the PM, I would have to say don't turbo a daily driver unless you buy a complete kit and just slap it in.
I think I'd give up boost just to have some air con.
don't forget, in addition to all the turbo parts, you will need a cat and full exhaust plus O2 sensor for your new ECU, clutch, pressure plate, I recommend stiffer mounts, bigger radiator, and better brakes.
I think I'd give up boost just to have some air con.
don't forget, in addition to all the turbo parts, you will need a cat and full exhaust plus O2 sensor for your new ECU, clutch, pressure plate, I recommend stiffer mounts, bigger radiator, and better brakes.
02-Aug-2006, 12:30 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Tdot
Posts: 441
hmm wow...ok now i've got some seroius 2nd thoughts lol...i wanted to turbo because i wanted to gain a bit of power n figured it'd be cheaper to boost a D than swap in a B16...but the B16 is also more stable lol...
02-Aug-2006, 09:43 AM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: mississauga
Posts: 1,607
b16s are gutless... please turbo it...
they make like 8ft-lbs more torque than your d-series... if you want to feel power, don't go there... even a b18 wouldn't do it... it didn't do it for me... torque= fun
they make like 8ft-lbs more torque than your d-series... if you want to feel power, don't go there... even a b18 wouldn't do it... it didn't do it for me... torque= fun
02-Aug-2006, 11:15 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 178
Originally posted by bbarbulo
in addition to what I said in the PM, I would have to say don't turbo a daily driver unless you buy a complete kit and just slap it in.
I think I'd give up boost just to have some air con.
don't forget, in addition to all the turbo parts, you will need a cat and full exhaust plus O2 sensor for your new ECU, clutch, pressure plate, I recommend stiffer mounts, bigger radiator, and better brakes.
in addition to what I said in the PM, I would have to say don't turbo a daily driver unless you buy a complete kit and just slap it in.
I think I'd give up boost just to have some air con.
don't forget, in addition to all the turbo parts, you will need a cat and full exhaust plus O2 sensor for your new ECU, clutch, pressure plate, I recommend stiffer mounts, bigger radiator, and better brakes.
02-Aug-2006, 12:01 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: hamilton/burlington
Posts: 479
if you are concerned about getting decent mileage, boost is not for you.
if you do decide to go boost, a kit is okay if you have lots of $$$... i'd peice one together over a period of time so it won't be so hard on the wallet all at once. in most cases you can peice one together for less than what some kits sell for.
regardless, do as much research as you have time for before you jump into such an involved project. if you don't you can run into some serious problems and be without reliable transportation. don't just start collecting parts here and there either, after you decide your output goal and overall purpose for the setup/car make a list of all the parts that fit your budget and start collecting them. this way you aren't changing things part way though and wasting both your time and money.
here is a basic parts list that will give you an idea of where to start once you figure out how much power you want:
1. turbo
2. manifold
3. downpipe
4. blowoff valve
5. wastegate (if the turbo isn't internally gated)
6. larger fuel injectors
7. intercooler and charge piping
8. engine management and all necassary sensors (wideband)
9. oil/water feed and return lines and fittings
10. vacuum lines for bov and wg
if you do decide to go boost, a kit is okay if you have lots of $$$... i'd peice one together over a period of time so it won't be so hard on the wallet all at once. in most cases you can peice one together for less than what some kits sell for.
regardless, do as much research as you have time for before you jump into such an involved project. if you don't you can run into some serious problems and be without reliable transportation. don't just start collecting parts here and there either, after you decide your output goal and overall purpose for the setup/car make a list of all the parts that fit your budget and start collecting them. this way you aren't changing things part way though and wasting both your time and money.
here is a basic parts list that will give you an idea of where to start once you figure out how much power you want:
1. turbo
2. manifold
3. downpipe
4. blowoff valve
5. wastegate (if the turbo isn't internally gated)
6. larger fuel injectors
7. intercooler and charge piping
8. engine management and all necassary sensors (wideband)
9. oil/water feed and return lines and fittings
10. vacuum lines for bov and wg
02-Aug-2006, 06:18 PM
#13
tuning is very important to get decent gas mileage and for max power/safety/reliability.
Lots of people loose gas mileage when they boost b/c MOST people don't add a turbo to gain gas mileage, they do it b/c of the added power. With the added power is added fuel consumption. And you'll find yourself stepping into the gas pedal a lot more with all that extra power, and when you go WOT a lot it uses a lot of gas.
With that said, if you're worried about gas mileage, tell your tuner, this way he will concentrate on the partial throttle/cruising portions of the fuel maps, of course after he makes sure the WOT and boost portions of the maps are ok. Don't just expect to get good mileage with a FMU and bigger injectors, or even with a chipped ecu and boost ready basemap...tuning is key.
But don't boost your daily driver unless you have an other car or access to another car to get you around.
Lots of people loose gas mileage when they boost b/c MOST people don't add a turbo to gain gas mileage, they do it b/c of the added power. With the added power is added fuel consumption. And you'll find yourself stepping into the gas pedal a lot more with all that extra power, and when you go WOT a lot it uses a lot of gas.
With that said, if you're worried about gas mileage, tell your tuner, this way he will concentrate on the partial throttle/cruising portions of the fuel maps, of course after he makes sure the WOT and boost portions of the maps are ok. Don't just expect to get good mileage with a FMU and bigger injectors, or even with a chipped ecu and boost ready basemap...tuning is key.
But don't boost your daily driver unless you have an other car or access to another car to get you around.
02-Aug-2006, 08:42 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Tdot
Posts: 441
hmm...yea this was gonna be for my daily driver lol...i wanted to turbo for a bit of power, wasnt lookin for anything crazy, and beceause i can piece the kit together slowly rather than like..say droppin in a b16 or b18, which would be all at once...alot hard to spend $3grand on a car at once rather than 3 grand over a period of time... agh...guess the civic'll be pretty much weak until i graduate from school...eh...i guess i'll spend money on HID Retroing, n some other goodies lol...
cuz yea, i mean, i was expecting to lose mileage since it is more air/fuel consumption, but since i was also lookin at lower power goals, i figured that it wouldnt be so bad, but from what bbarbulo has told me, tuning it for mileage would be very costly...like having the tuner map everything out...i realize that in the long run, the cost of tuning would outweight the happiness i'd get from it lol sorry...taking economics in summer school...i thnk of everything i doin terms of maximizing my utility n such...any econ/commerce ppl readin this'll know wut i'm talkin about haha
cuz yea, i mean, i was expecting to lose mileage since it is more air/fuel consumption, but since i was also lookin at lower power goals, i figured that it wouldnt be so bad, but from what bbarbulo has told me, tuning it for mileage would be very costly...like having the tuner map everything out...i realize that in the long run, the cost of tuning would outweight the happiness i'd get from it lol sorry...taking economics in summer school...i thnk of everything i doin terms of maximizing my utility n such...any econ/commerce ppl readin this'll know wut i'm talkin about haha
02-Aug-2006, 09:02 PM
#15
tuning really doesn't cost that much....if you know the right people.
But you're right...to an extent, about the tuning for mileage being costly-ish. I mean, i've got many many hours into the development of the program i'm using in my ecu, but i now get the best gas mileage i've ever seen in this car, even with the stock d16z6 (its now a built b16). And i've got some dyno time on august 10th so, we'll see what kind of power numbers i'm putting down, with this amazing (for a built b16) gas mileage.
But for a daily driver and for you're power goals, i would honestly just do a b20 w/gsr tranny swap or even maybe a gsr swap and call it a day....of course there's always room for improvement, when funds permit.
But you're right...to an extent, about the tuning for mileage being costly-ish. I mean, i've got many many hours into the development of the program i'm using in my ecu, but i now get the best gas mileage i've ever seen in this car, even with the stock d16z6 (its now a built b16). And i've got some dyno time on august 10th so, we'll see what kind of power numbers i'm putting down, with this amazing (for a built b16) gas mileage.
But for a daily driver and for you're power goals, i would honestly just do a b20 w/gsr tranny swap or even maybe a gsr swap and call it a day....of course there's always room for improvement, when funds permit.
03-Aug-2006, 07:19 PM
#19
Originally posted by TO23
What is o2 sensor for ur new ECU?? Is the o2 sensor sonnected to header ur talking about??
What is o2 sensor for ur new ECU?? Is the o2 sensor sonnected to header ur talking about??
03-Aug-2006, 08:10 PM
#20
obd1 o2 sensors are 4 wire....only the p05 and jdm p08 have a 1 wire o2 sensor...the only difference is that obd2 ecus look for 2 o2 sensors 1 pre-cat and 1 post-cat...where as obd1 ecus only look for 1....obd0 however uses all 1 wire o2 sensors.
All you need to convert from obd2 to obd1 is an ecu conversion harness and obd1 ecu.
But if he were to get tuning done, his tuner would most likely disable the o2 sensor and run open loop, i know i do when i tune cars, i don't want those pesky o2 sensors trying to mess with the hours of tuning i just did. If its tuned good enough there will be no difference in mileage/emmisions when running in open loop (no o2 sensor feedback) compared to closed loop (ecu uses o2 feedback and adjusts the air/fuel mixture). The ecu actually runs in open loop when it sees more than 70-80% throttle.
I don't use an o2 either bruno.
All you need to convert from obd2 to obd1 is an ecu conversion harness and obd1 ecu.
But if he were to get tuning done, his tuner would most likely disable the o2 sensor and run open loop, i know i do when i tune cars, i don't want those pesky o2 sensors trying to mess with the hours of tuning i just did. If its tuned good enough there will be no difference in mileage/emmisions when running in open loop (no o2 sensor feedback) compared to closed loop (ecu uses o2 feedback and adjusts the air/fuel mixture). The ecu actually runs in open loop when it sees more than 70-80% throttle.
I don't use an o2 either bruno.
