Turbo on a DX engine??
08-Mar-2004, 04:29 PM
#21
you bet!! 
you'll hear that thing spool 3 blocks away with the open downpipe 
G1 is the first license -> the written one. G2 is the one after your 1st driving test (8 months after the G1).
you'll hear that thing spool 3 blocks away with the open downpipe G1 is the first license -> the written one. G2 is the one after your 1st driving test (8 months after the G1).
08-Mar-2004, 05:17 PM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,431
they can be boosted no problem...with a small turbo and crappyish parts your looking at 130-150 whp give or take...you will need a good clucth on the llist aswell...you can even turbo dpfi but must add a injecotr with a simple controller to it to sup mroe fuel..
09-Mar-2004, 03:58 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Cambridge, ON
Posts: 469
Hey I have a couple questions about turobs, I already picked up a trubo with an internal Waistgate its the IHI RBH.. something like turbo but I am not sure what holes are for what like oil and stuff, and I am having truble finding some info on it so maybe you guys can help. Also I am looking for a BOV and where can I buy piping and lines, maybe you guys can give me some sites either than homemadeturbo becaue I already looked on that site and didnt get too much info where to buy things.
Any help would be apreciated.
Thanks
Dariusz
Any help would be apreciated.
Thanks
Dariusz
09-Mar-2004, 04:23 PM
#24
as for what holes are what, the one with a restrictor in it is a oil inlet, the one 180 degrees from it is oil out, and the other two are coolant in and out (order I don't think matters in terms of which is in and which is out).
Do a search in google for the flanges you need. You may need to get some custom made like I had to do. Bigups to my BOIIIIII!!
Do a search in google for the flanges you need. You may need to get some custom made like I had to do. Bigups to my BOIIIIII!!
damn you!
10-Mar-2004, 02:35 PM
#29
fuel pump!! nice catch red!
check valves - not necessary at 10 psi - stock map can do 10 psi no prob, and then you do a voltage clamp before you send the signal to the ECU - so no check engine light. Check valves are used for FMUs and ****, but most fuel computers feature a voltage clamp for the MAP signal.
spracingsports, more than I'd like to admit to myself or anyone else. VAFC is a great, cheap way to control fuel. it's the same thing as a S-AFC but it controls the VTEC engagement point, which IMO is useless on a turbo motor.
check valves - not necessary at 10 psi - stock map can do 10 psi no prob, and then you do a voltage clamp before you send the signal to the ECU - so no check engine light. Check valves are used for FMUs and ****, but most fuel computers feature a voltage clamp for the MAP signal.
spracingsports, more than I'd like to admit to myself or anyone else. VAFC is a great, cheap way to control fuel. it's the same thing as a S-AFC but it controls the VTEC engagement point, which IMO is useless on a turbo motor.
10-Mar-2004, 03:20 PM
#31
cam profile has little effect when you're cramming air down it. You actually want low overlap and high lift - so I believe the non-VTEC cam is better suited for the application. On hardcore race motors like turbo B18C (gsr motors) VTEC is disabled altogether.
10-Mar-2004, 04:54 PM
#33
what are you trying to accomplish? that will determine if turbo or swap is the way to go.
I've owned my car since new, and I want more than a swap can offer. Being the sole owner, I know the service history of the car - so I can boost w/ confidence. And if I blow anything up, I have the skill and the pocket book to fix it. This is NOT recommended for ppl who have "budgets" for their cars. **** goes wrong all the time, and if you don't have flow to get your car back on the road, you'll be looking at many months of walking
I've owned my car since new, and I want more than a swap can offer. Being the sole owner, I know the service history of the car - so I can boost w/ confidence. And if I blow anything up, I have the skill and the pocket book to fix it. This is NOT recommended for ppl who have "budgets" for their cars. **** goes wrong all the time, and if you don't have flow to get your car back on the road, you'll be looking at many months of walking
12-Mar-2004, 12:32 PM
#35
just to give you guys an idea of the costs involved... here is an example of instrumentation that is not in a turbo kit but is pretty essential. Just a couple of items I picked up this week:
Greddy EGT 60mm P/H/W ~ $200 USD
Greddy 60mm Boost ~ $100 USD
Blitz FATT turbo timer ~$100 USD shipped.
That's ~$400 USD altogether on things that are not even really necessary, but desirable for a turbo. There is dozens of small things like this that add up very quickly. This is why I say - turbo is not for the budget-minded.
Greddy EGT 60mm P/H/W ~ $200 USD
Greddy 60mm Boost ~ $100 USD
Blitz FATT turbo timer ~$100 USD shipped.
That's ~$400 USD altogether on things that are not even really necessary, but desirable for a turbo. There is dozens of small things like this that add up very quickly. This is why I say - turbo is not for the budget-minded.
12-Mar-2004, 12:49 PM
#37
thank you for your signature LOL
as for the prices, I thought so... I shopped around
Autometer would have been cheaper, but I wanted GOOD gauges cuz these are kinda important to keep an eye on. My other gauges are not as important and they are Autmeter volt, a/f, and oil press. In case you're wondering about using two diff't sets of gauges, the Greddys are going around the cluster, and the Autometers have been installed in place of the deck. Who needs a deck anyways?
Your parts are on their way. Couple of weeks for shipping/clearing customs. - hope brokerage and duty isn't too much.
LOLas for the prices, I thought so... I shopped around
Autometer would have been cheaper, but I wanted GOOD gauges cuz these are kinda important to keep an eye on. My other gauges are not as important and they are Autmeter volt, a/f, and oil press. In case you're wondering about using two diff't sets of gauges, the Greddys are going around the cluster, and the Autometers have been installed in place of the deck. Who needs a deck anyways?
Your parts are on their way. Couple of weeks for shipping/clearing customs. - hope brokerage and duty isn't too much.
12-Mar-2004, 12:50 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: 43° 41' N 79° 38' W
Posts: 9,277
Originally posted by bbarbulo
thank you for your signature LOL
as for the prices, I thought so... I shopped around
Autometer would have been cheaper, but I wanted GOOD gauges cuz these are kinda important to keep an eye on. My other gauges are not as important and they are Autmeter volt, a/f, and oil press. In case you're wondering about using two diff't sets of gauges, the Greddys are going around the cluster, and the Autometers have been installed in place of the deck. Who needs a deck anyways?
Your parts are on their way. Couple of weeks for shipping/clearing customs. - hope brokerage and duty isn't too much.
thank you for your signature
LOLas for the prices, I thought so... I shopped around
Autometer would have been cheaper, but I wanted GOOD gauges cuz these are kinda important to keep an eye on. My other gauges are not as important and they are Autmeter volt, a/f, and oil press. In case you're wondering about using two diff't sets of gauges, the Greddys are going around the cluster, and the Autometers have been installed in place of the deck. Who needs a deck anyways?
Your parts are on their way. Couple of weeks for shipping/clearing customs. - hope brokerage and duty isn't too much.
You coming??
16-Mar-2004, 06:57 PM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 440
i'm running a turbo in my D16! i'm running the greddy kit for the 92-95, but my car is a 98 (OBD2) you'll need custom computer work! but seriously i don't think it's worth it to do turbo on that motor! get a swap to B16 or something! but one thing i do love about my turbo is my intercooler and my HKS BOV!!!
