Throwing a code....
09-Mar-2007, 01:27 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Throwing a code....
throwing a code 43 on my car... fuel supply system is what it says... possible causes? O2 sensor?
thing is, it only throws the code in the morning and then when i drive it after work it doesnt.... im confused...
its an EK with B16 converted to OBD1
any advice would be great.....
thing is, it only throws the code in the morning and then when i drive it after work it doesnt.... im confused...
its an EK with B16 converted to OBD1
any advice would be great.....
09-Mar-2007, 01:58 PM
#2
well that particular code in the helms manual indicates "driver too ugly" error. I'm not sure what your options are at this point. 
43 is a running rich code if I remember off the top of my head. you would NOT get this code if your O2 sensor was bad. bad O2 sensor means no reading, means ECU wouldn't know the car was overfueling. the O2 is fine now, but if you leave this condition too long it will foul up and fail. possible problems, fuel pressure too high, leaky injector, driver too ugly, bad coolant temp sensor, bad IAT sensor, bad MAP. I would check the fuel pressure first and check all the sensors.... if that checks out, why not get some new injectors. stock injectors are really cheap on ebay... so testing your current injectors for leaks would actually cost more than just getting a spare set. I might have some somewhere, but who knows where
possibly on a spare manifold I have, but I dunno where I left it.
43 is a running rich code if I remember off the top of my head. you would NOT get this code if your O2 sensor was bad. bad O2 sensor means no reading, means ECU wouldn't know the car was overfueling. the O2 is fine now, but if you leave this condition too long it will foul up and fail. possible problems, fuel pressure too high, leaky injector, driver too ugly, bad coolant temp sensor, bad IAT sensor, bad MAP. I would check the fuel pressure first and check all the sensors.... if that checks out, why not get some new injectors. stock injectors are really cheap on ebay... so testing your current injectors for leaks would actually cost more than just getting a spare set. I might have some somewhere, but who knows where
possibly on a spare manifold I have, but I dunno where I left it.
09-Mar-2007, 02:38 PM
#3
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Posts: n/a
thanks B
its not the driver too ugly cause i checked that this morning
im going to take it in to my mechanic because i dont have any faith in my own knowledge lol
thanks for the help
would driving with this issue for a couple days be a problem?? and why would it only come on after the car sat over night and not during day time driving after the initial morning drive?
its not the driver too ugly cause i checked that this morning
im going to take it in to my mechanic because i dont have any faith in my own knowledge lol
thanks for the help
would driving with this issue for a couple days be a problem?? and why would it only come on after the car sat over night and not during day time driving after the initial morning drive?
09-Mar-2007, 03:38 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: brockville
Posts: 122
haha man my buddies integra was throwing that code like a week ago and couldnt figure anything out and in his case all that we changed was the ecu it was somehow ****ed and he ran a 4th gen si ecu and ran 1 litre of methyl hydrate in it and it passed etest without a problem the timing was out a little bit as well so Im not sure in ur case man like B said check all that **** but make sure ur ecu isnt ****ed either jus use a buddies or something an see if its still throwing that code
09-Mar-2007, 06:15 PM
#5
no, it shouldn't be a problem for a few days. i ran my saturn like that for like a year before I figured out it was the coolant temp sensor. if the car thinks it's -50 degrees out (bottom range of the coolant temp sensor) the ECU will dump a ton of fuel in, because rich is the only way cars run when it's that cold out.
do you have any driveability issues, like hesitation upon roll-on throtte application, bogging, loss of power, loss of fuel economy, etc?
MANY MANY MANY MANY things can be the cause of this error. it's a general catch-all error for "your car ain't running right". in additon to previously stated things, it could be a minor vacuum leak, misfire on one cylinder, clogged or kinked fuel return line, etc etc....
at what point does the code appear? how warm is the engine? what operating parameters make it come on (acceleration, deceleration, high RPM, high load, etc?)
what year is the engine? why'd you go OBD1??? tsk tsk
the fact it only happens on one part of the drive is what initially made me thing 'leaky injector'. but it's a really really far-fetched possibility, given how many other things could cause it.
do you have any driveability issues, like hesitation upon roll-on throtte application, bogging, loss of power, loss of fuel economy, etc?
MANY MANY MANY MANY things can be the cause of this error. it's a general catch-all error for "your car ain't running right". in additon to previously stated things, it could be a minor vacuum leak, misfire on one cylinder, clogged or kinked fuel return line, etc etc....
at what point does the code appear? how warm is the engine? what operating parameters make it come on (acceleration, deceleration, high RPM, high load, etc?)
what year is the engine? why'd you go OBD1??? tsk tsk
the fact it only happens on one part of the drive is what initially made me thing 'leaky injector'. but it's a really really far-fetched possibility, given how many other things could cause it.
09-Mar-2007, 06:40 PM
#6
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the code appears in the morning while at about a steady 3500rpm in 4th gear just as the engine gets to normal operation temperature... not getting drivability issues really... and i didnt choose the OBD1, it was what came with it... the engine is a 2000
fuel economy is fine, car drives like it always has... maybe slight hesitation on throttle in midrange rpm but nothing most people would ever notice
fuel economy is fine, car drives like it always has... maybe slight hesitation on throttle in midrange rpm but nothing most people would ever notice
Originally posted by bbarbulo
no, it shouldn't be a problem for a few days. i ran my saturn like that for like a year before I figured out it was the coolant temp sensor. if the car thinks it's -50 degrees out (bottom range of the coolant temp sensor) the ECU will dump a ton of fuel in, because rich is the only way cars run when it's that cold out.
do you have any driveability issues, like hesitation upon roll-on throtte application, bogging, loss of power, loss of fuel economy, etc?
MANY MANY MANY MANY things can be the cause of this error. it's a general catch-all error for "your car ain't running right". in additon to previously stated things, it could be a minor vacuum leak, misfire on one cylinder, clogged or kinked fuel return line, etc etc....
at what point does the code appear? how warm is the engine? what operating parameters make it come on (acceleration, deceleration, high RPM, high load, etc?)
what year is the engine? why'd you go OBD1??? tsk tsk
the fact it only happens on one part of the drive is what initially made me thing 'leaky injector'. but it's a really really far-fetched possibility, given how many other things could cause it.
no, it shouldn't be a problem for a few days. i ran my saturn like that for like a year before I figured out it was the coolant temp sensor. if the car thinks it's -50 degrees out (bottom range of the coolant temp sensor) the ECU will dump a ton of fuel in, because rich is the only way cars run when it's that cold out.
do you have any driveability issues, like hesitation upon roll-on throtte application, bogging, loss of power, loss of fuel economy, etc?
MANY MANY MANY MANY things can be the cause of this error. it's a general catch-all error for "your car ain't running right". in additon to previously stated things, it could be a minor vacuum leak, misfire on one cylinder, clogged or kinked fuel return line, etc etc....
at what point does the code appear? how warm is the engine? what operating parameters make it come on (acceleration, deceleration, high RPM, high load, etc?)
what year is the engine? why'd you go OBD1??? tsk tsk
the fact it only happens on one part of the drive is what initially made me thing 'leaky injector'. but it's a really really far-fetched possibility, given how many other things could cause it.
09-Mar-2007, 11:55 PM
#7
if you wanna try another ecu like someone mentioned above, feel free to stop by and try out one of the ones i've got. I could take a quick peek at all of those other things people have mentioned see if i notice anything funky, and shoot the **** a little bit.
Let me know.
Let me know.
10-Mar-2007, 02:48 AM
#9
if the engine is a 2000, and the car is a 1996... all you really need is either to repin your harness with OBD2b plugs and get yourself the proper USDM Si or CDN SiR ECU.... or just get a OBD2A-OBD2B conversion harness and run the proper ECU.
As for the code, it basically means you have a healthy O2, as soon as it goes to feedback loop, it reads running rich. Since it's a pretty new engine, I'd just check all your connections, make sure everything is plugged in tight... also to wire a B series in a D16Y7 engine bay, some wires may have been extended and harness hacked a lil bit... check to make sure your wires are in good shape. And yeah, try one of zeeman's computers where he can datalog your sensors. It will make the whole diagnosis thing hella easier to do.
As for the code, it basically means you have a healthy O2, as soon as it goes to feedback loop, it reads running rich. Since it's a pretty new engine, I'd just check all your connections, make sure everything is plugged in tight... also to wire a B series in a D16Y7 engine bay, some wires may have been extended and harness hacked a lil bit... check to make sure your wires are in good shape. And yeah, try one of zeeman's computers where he can datalog your sensors. It will make the whole diagnosis thing hella easier to do.
22-Mar-2007, 02:32 PM
#10
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ok heres an update... car has a high idle on startup... about 1500-1800 rpm... when driving the light is not on.... only on a steady 3000-4000 rpm does the CEL come on... when i stop at a light or park the idle bounces from 1000-1600 rpm and after a minute or so, sits back down to about 750rpm.... i also suspect an exhaust leak because i can hear the sound when at WOT. my intake seems to be wheezing when gas applied but that has happened since i got it
havent had a chance to see andrew but i am hoping hes available tommorrow to toss another ecu on there...
any other ideas with this new info??
havent had a chance to see andrew but i am hoping hes available tommorrow to toss another ecu on there...
any other ideas with this new info??
23-Mar-2007, 06:14 PM
#14
hmmm makes sense, glad to hear you fixed that issue. if you had a vacuum gauge (in the engine compartment) it would save you a lotta hassles, and it kinda looks cool to have gauges under the hood
so your fuel pressure is good, the ECU is running the correct software, your TPS and MAP sensors are all good, your coolant temp sensor and IAT is good... (I'm assuming Andrew logged all these things on his laptop?)... cuz then the next step is to eliminate the exhaust leak (should do that anyways), then maybe try some other injectors.
so your fuel pressure is good, the ECU is running the correct software, your TPS and MAP sensors are all good, your coolant temp sensor and IAT is good... (I'm assuming Andrew logged all these things on his laptop?)... cuz then the next step is to eliminate the exhaust leak (should do that anyways), then maybe try some other injectors.
23-Mar-2007, 06:50 PM
#15
we don't know his fuel pressure is good, he doesn't have a guage to monitor his fuel pressure, but we tried my old b16 (a known working) fuel pressure regulator with no success.
We didn't get a chance to hook up my tuning ecu to check to see if the TPS, MAP, IAT sensors were functioning properly, b/c unfortunately, i had somewhere to be.
But his car runs fine. Its just that after like 10 minutes of driving, if he holds a steady 3000-4000rpms for a bit the CEL (code 43) will come on. But the car will continue to run just fine.
I suggested taking the car to revsto9 (dean), he's a licensed tech that works at our local honda. This IMO would be better than throwing money at parts randomly replacing them until the problem is solved.
We tried using an obd2a ecu i had kickin around but we got a code 54 (secondary o2, my guess is that since its converted to obd1 the secondary o2 isn't hooked up) and a code 65 (CFK sensor, i could clearly see that it wasn't even plugged in).
We took it for a short drive, but it didn't seem any better than when using his chipped p28.
Then we found that one of the vacuum nipples on the back of the intake manifold was open, so we plugged it and his idle got a lot better, and he said the driveability improved.
Dean is the man, he'll be able to figure it out for sure.
We didn't get a chance to hook up my tuning ecu to check to see if the TPS, MAP, IAT sensors were functioning properly, b/c unfortunately, i had somewhere to be.
But his car runs fine. Its just that after like 10 minutes of driving, if he holds a steady 3000-4000rpms for a bit the CEL (code 43) will come on. But the car will continue to run just fine.
I suggested taking the car to revsto9 (dean), he's a licensed tech that works at our local honda. This IMO would be better than throwing money at parts randomly replacing them until the problem is solved.
We tried using an obd2a ecu i had kickin around but we got a code 54 (secondary o2, my guess is that since its converted to obd1 the secondary o2 isn't hooked up) and a code 65 (CFK sensor, i could clearly see that it wasn't even plugged in).
We took it for a short drive, but it didn't seem any better than when using his chipped p28.
Then we found that one of the vacuum nipples on the back of the intake manifold was open, so we plugged it and his idle got a lot better, and he said the driveability improved.
Dean is the man, he'll be able to figure it out for sure.
26-Mar-2007, 09:23 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 85
Code 43 - Fuel supply system.
Look in a honda manual, a real one, there WILL be a step by step in trouble shooting the code, even tell you which wires to look at, what parts to replace and everything. Do what the dealership would do.
As for the OBD1 wiring thing, OBD1 is better then OBD2 in many ways, and is alot easier to tune if he steps up to a built engine. IF he is so worried about the ECU not being right, unlike OBD2, chipping an OBD1 ecu and having the proper rom is a 80$ thing lol.
Look in a honda manual, a real one, there WILL be a step by step in trouble shooting the code, even tell you which wires to look at, what parts to replace and everything. Do what the dealership would do.
As for the OBD1 wiring thing, OBD1 is better then OBD2 in many ways, and is alot easier to tune if he steps up to a built engine. IF he is so worried about the ECU not being right, unlike OBD2, chipping an OBD1 ecu and having the proper rom is a 80$ thing lol.
