Ringlands fried?
 

The last few days ive noticed oil residue coming from the gasket where the exhaust manifold meets the block right where the top studs go in , i know its not coming from the valve cover gasket. Im running 7 psi on my setup right now and not sure if blowby is the culprit.

I have my pcv valve gutted and dumped to the atmosphere aswell and the other nipple off the VC cover. I thought this would be sufficient enough to let the engine breath

I plan on doing a leakdown/compression test in the next few days to get a better reading of whats going on, but until than anyone have any ideas...imput..anything lol

check for oil in your charge piping first

theres no oil in the charge pipes ive taken them off recently just out of curiosity, im using a restrictor style fitting so i dont think thats the case...no smoke comes out of my tailpipe either in idle...or boost.

leaking down from the cam seal maybe?

Trust me, you'd KNOW if the ringlands were shot.
7psi isn't anything to worry about, a friend of mine's been running 12-14psi daily on his stock boosted LS and its been going strong for a while now. Those engines can handle 275-300whp all day.

If your valve cover breather is open air then just look for excessive white smoke there, dead give away. also your motor will feel and sound alot different. compression/leakdown wouldnt hurt though.

Open that crank case up! excessive + crank case pressure kills rings/ringlands. the valvecover breather isnt enough.
either ports on the VC or back of the block. Itll save your motor.

also can you get us a pic?

i will take pics tmrw!

i know when boosted you want more ventelation, but i thought a gutted pvc and VC open to air would be sufficient for 7lbs..what about pcv to pre turbo for better venting

then you'll have oil/vapours going through your turbo, which i personally wouldn't want.

I'd look into an exhaust slash cut, this way the oil/vapours will go through your exhaust instead of your turbo.

I'm using the crank vent mini-system and i like it so far. I've also used it on a freshly rebuilt turbo engine and i feel it helped with the break in process quiet nicely. A few months after, we did a compression test and the results were exactly what we hoped for. Did another test after a year of constant abuse....same thing.

the cheapest and easiest crank case vent. drill and tap the front of the VC with 1/2npt barbs to some make shift catch can, hell you can use a pop bottle if you really want. But the valve cover breather and pvc are not enough.
Theres a 2.5" pipe raming air into your motor and pressurizing it even @ 7lbs you need to be able to get all to +pressure out of the crank case and the 3/8 vc breather wont do.

If you do the exhaust slash like zeeman mentioned, make sure you do it after your cat(if you have a cat).

Heres a pic of what im refering to oil coming from the manifold/gasket...and you can see all around the the outlets of the manifold oily resedue.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9...leakfm8.th.jpg

doesnt look like anything serious to me, but thats probably because I see dirty engines all day.

To be sure, clean it off well, then see if it comes back after a day or two of driving.

actaully pull your plugs and check for carbon/oil build up

whats the exhaust slash cut all about, i run both of my vents open on my car. Vented the vc to atmosphere and took my pcv out and ran a tube to the ground.

you guys think thats good enough?

UPDATE

took the engine apart and i noticed the valve stem seals are crapped by cyl#1 now i DO plan changing all my seals, but not till nov or so when i put the car away. My question is now should i keep boosting with the seal leaking..its not affecting compression really..the only thing is oil mixing in the combustion chamber would lower my octane rating soo...boosted ppl what do u think.....

Id fix it asap.
just me

x2

while its apart why wouldnt you fix it? It'll take like $60 and an hour or two depending on your skill level.

Oil/carbon gives you a greater chance to detonate. If you detonate a few times, you'll be doing more than replacing valve seals.

Just do the job properly the first time...replacing seals isn't much work anyways.