rear disc conversion
07-Jan-2004, 08:33 AM
#1
Luka
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
rear disc conversion
Does this sound right to you guys (anyone that knows that is):
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill.../Disc2Drum.htm
It seems a little too simple...i thought you had to get new master cylinder and **** as well?
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill.../Disc2Drum.htm
It seems a little too simple...i thought you had to get new master cylinder and **** as well?
07-Jan-2004, 09:15 AM
#2
no, that's right.... but it depends on how half-assed you want to do it? That's doing the bare minimum, next step is the correct prop valve, and the next step after is the master cylinder, and then after is the booster. That's in order of importance.
07-Jan-2004, 10:08 AM
#4
no... nothing is difficult. it's all nuts and bolts man! only takes time and patience. get a set of brake line wrenches... they'll save you a lot of hassle.
the rest is experience... like how to deal with bolts that are a bitch, or difficult to get to, etc.
the rest is experience... like how to deal with bolts that are a bitch, or difficult to get to, etc.
07-Jan-2004, 10:45 AM
#6
bleeding the brakes is the #5 easiest regular maintenance to do.
1. oil change/tranny fluid and lube
2. air filter
3. spark plugs
4. distributor service
5. brake bleeding
6. brake pads
7. valve adjustment
8. everything else.
1. oil change/tranny fluid and lube
2. air filter
3. spark plugs
4. distributor service
5. brake bleeding
6. brake pads
7. valve adjustment
8. everything else.
07-Jan-2004, 10:47 AM
#7
Luka
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
I tried bleeding them once...didn't work out too well...I wasn't using a kit though. One day when I was changing my brake pads I got pissed off cuz I snapped a stud taking my tires off and accidently undid the bleeding screw instead of the one to let the caliper move up. that was fun.
07-Jan-2004, 10:52 AM
#8
You don't need a kit... just a frutopia bottle and a clear vinyl hose from home depot at $0.12 a foot.
Grab a Chilton and read it... or Haynes has a book specifically just on brakes... it's a whole brake manual. The $20 spent there will save you a lifetime of paying for bleeding.
Grab a Chilton and read it... or Haynes has a book specifically just on brakes... it's a whole brake manual. The $20 spent there will save you a lifetime of paying for bleeding.
07-Jan-2004, 01:04 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Originally posted by shlammed
I have a hayne's manual and tried doing it buy i obviously didn't do it properly/
I have a hayne's manual and tried doing it buy i obviously didn't do it properly/
07-Jan-2004, 03:14 PM
#17
to be honest, other than visual impact, there is little to no benefit on a street driven vehicle to doing the swap.
however, if your brakes already need work, then why the hell not, it costs about the same anyways (plus or minus a couple hundred bux).
you will not notice any difference in braking, other than of course given the same pedal effort your foot will travel further down to get the same braking force. Reason being, wheel cylinders (in layman's terms the thingy that is the hydraulic actuator of the drum brakes) are tiny and require little volume... calipers are in comparison pretty big and require more volume. So given a constant master cylinder diameter (13/16 I believe, or maybe even 11/16
) your foot will have to travel lower to displace the required amount of fluid.
The prop valve... you can keep yours, but it would be nice to get a 4 wheel setup off a 2G integra.
The best thing to do if you want a cheap improvement would be to get a rebuilt Integra master cyl, new flex lines, GOOD quality pads, and cheap aftermarket rotors/drums all around, and rebuilt wheel cylinders and maybe rebuild your own calipers if you know how.
Basically, everything in your brake system will be new, and the car will perform accordingly, EXCEPT with a nice big new master cylinder.
however, if your brakes already need work, then why the hell not, it costs about the same anyways (plus or minus a couple hundred bux).
you will not notice any difference in braking, other than of course given the same pedal effort your foot will travel further down to get the same braking force. Reason being, wheel cylinders (in layman's terms the thingy that is the hydraulic actuator of the drum brakes) are tiny and require little volume... calipers are in comparison pretty big and require more volume. So given a constant master cylinder diameter (13/16 I believe, or maybe even 11/16
) your foot will have to travel lower to displace the required amount of fluid.The prop valve... you can keep yours, but it would be nice to get a 4 wheel setup off a 2G integra.
The best thing to do if you want a cheap improvement would be to get a rebuilt Integra master cyl, new flex lines, GOOD quality pads, and cheap aftermarket rotors/drums all around, and rebuilt wheel cylinders and maybe rebuild your own calipers if you know how.
Basically, everything in your brake system will be new, and the car will perform accordingly, EXCEPT with a nice big new master cylinder.
