Question: EK9 or DC2R piston for B16A?
 

I am using B16A engine now, and it is time to rebuild it becoz it is burning engine oil crazily... (no money for B16B or B18C, so...)

First, I am stuck at choosing which piston.. some ppl says EK9's piston give higher compression and some say DC2R's. (But i'm not changing the rod)

And for the head gasket, i am planning to get Spoon, but some ppl tell me if i'm using my car for daily drive, use back the OEM's. I know there won't be any significant differernce even using Spoon but still want to pick the better one.

Hence, please help me out! Really appreciate for your comments.

with the amount of money u will spend rebuilding the engine , u might as well just buy another one

unless you want to do hard core tuning and building the motor from bare to top

Honestly, i would like to get a B18C but it is totally out of my budget. And i don't want to get a B16A again.. so i guess i can only stick with rebuilding it..

If base of EK9 / DC2R's piston, actually which one has higher compression? Or which one is better for B16A?

i would think you have to bore it or something if you wanted to use integra pistons cause they are from a 1.8L and i believer they are bigger...


and yeah, i agree... just buy a b18c1 and part yours out... you could get some decent money for your head if its still good... plus, you have almost everything for a b18c1 just need the motor... better yet, just buy a bottom end and use your head...

also, i saw a complete b16 swap with like 80km for 800 in the for sale thread... maybe he'll sell you the motor... or you could have spare parts... probably cheaper than rebuilding your motor.

easy said than done....he can't afford to have downtime with his car

buy the b18 block use your b16 head

..that was the setup on my car for a while... but the flow in a b16 head isnt the greatest... so it was switched to a C5 ...

so if you want to avoid too much downtime then start with the block then throw on the head after.

Why are you doing the rebuild again? Just because of burning oil?.. because you can just fix that specific problem.. check your rings and all that jazz
:haha:
hey! just ask mike he burns a litre of oil a day

IMO i wouldnt build a b16... save up for the b18 at least if you want to build somthing.

if you're gonna change pistions I'd just get a forged set.. I wouldn't recommend CTR pistons..

for a B18 block, is very very rare in Hong Kong now. All of them has been shipped to US and Canada~

Ic... guess spending money on a B16A is not a smart choice. (But, I want to use the cheapest way to make it back to good condition)

Yes, actually, my car:
1. Burning lots of engine oil
2. I think the compression wasn't enough too (I don't know how to do the compression test, even i ask the shops, they don't want to do it for me).
3. When i start the engine, there is lots of white smoke and smell like 'fuel'.
4. The engine doesn't go smooth, when i slap on the floor, 1st - 3rd gear still 'OK', but 4th gear, the car doesn't really going. And sometmes,
5. Rev stall to engine off, (ex. when in traffics)

Ppl tell me to change the piston ring and gasket and the problem will be fixed. So instead of rebuilding it, can changing piston + piston ring + gasket will fix all the problems?

Please help.

What do u mean by forged set, is it a brand or OEM piston? And why CTR pistons are not recommended?

Want to know more, Thanks!

cmon rob, he's looking for the cheapest way to get his car back to running conditions=P....

but anyhow.....the cheapest way is to replace all those things you said above, but it'll add up....if you spend a little more on top of that, it's equivalent to another motor you could've gotten....so...decisions

If you absolutly must stay with the 1.6 bottom end, go with ctrs.

you should build it for boost and while your in there change the rods, and get better bolts and ****... then throw a turbo on there, run like 10-12 psi daily and you will be making some crazy power i bet.

dude...this is his daily driver, he doesn't care about speed, he just want the cheapest way to fix this problem, not adding more problems by slapping a turbo on it

since it's goign to be a hassel removing the head from the block and all that labour is going to be put into this, i highly suggest that you part out what you can from your b16 and get a LS motor...mate that with ur already existing b16 tranny and you have a better daily driving car

I don't think you need to bore out the cylinders, B16/B18 all use the same piston size, just the strokes makes the displacement different. Of course, the piston design varies. Sounds like you are taking the entire long block apart if you are dealing with pistons?

How about you change the head gasket and piston rings for now?

my bad man... i was just saying, if you are in there doing that work, wouldn't it make more sense to build it a bit stronger?? if it was build to handle boost and you didn't run any.. then, I would assume you just have a strongly build bottom end... i don't have too much knowledge when it comes to engine building, but building something stronger usually means more durable and longer lasting!

but, if he wanted one for so cheap then i don't know why he is thinking about rebuilding a b16??? those engines are like d-series now!!! . like i said, one guy is selling like a whole b16 swap for like 800 in kitchener or something... i would buy that and get some spare parts too! makes more sense than rebuilding it if he's not building it!

yes i get your point mike....if you are going to go through all that work process, mite as well make it better for future rite?...i know the guy, and i know he isn't into performance too much, he just want the basic of the basic, a proper running and reliable running car....of course he isn't too knowledgable about it and i'm persuading him toward the LS motor, it will be around the same cost as rebuilding the b16 and adds more torque and reliablility...anyone else have a better suggestion, post them up, help this guy out

Is he in Canada or HK?

hahahahaha... ok, i'll get off it now... :):):) and yes, ls motor... what a decent set-up in an ek...

he's in HK

Thanks everybody for the comments

As 95civic said, i am planning to search for a LS motor now.. But the really weird thing is, in the last couple weeks, there is nth in the market. All the motor alrdy sent to US or Canada... (- -")

Yes i'm in HK now. I would like to swap the B16 if i'm in Tor. Therefore, if i couldn't find a LS motor in next couple weeks. I might only change the piston ring and gasket for now.

But i do hope to raise abit power when changing the piston and gasket. Hence i am thinking of using a higher compression piston (CTR) and head gasket (SPOON). With the lowest price i have to pay.... (- -")

DC2R engine is my dream engine to put into the EK, but wait till my son born coming August (yeah!) and see how much more he gonna takes first..

go k or go home :thumbup:






j/k. im surprised no one has told him to get a b20 block instead and go crvtec. with the tight roads in HK it'd be nice to have some torque from the 2.0 block. b20 block with b16 head and b16 tranny...mmmmm :). getting a ls block would be around the same as a crv i would assume so why not go with the 2.0? don't go through with changing the pistons. just find a good condition b20 and swap it in with the b16 head and tranny. you'll have a totally different beast. i know you're not crazy about performance but the extra torque will be nice.

:banghead: :banghead: . that is some funny ****. have you ever flowed a stock pr3 head vs. c5? do you even know a c5 has different valves? or, a different IM and t/b? do you know where in the head, power is obtained when porting? sometimes i can't believe the nonsense i read online. a stock pr3 flows very well. as for the original question, PCT's are the heaviest b series piston available. b20 shortblock is your best option (as recently st8ed), but, if 1.6 is your only option, i'd get a set of p30's and mill the head a bit. i don't really like pct's. they hinder flame travel, but, that's mostly on 1.8's.

lol, well when he said change to ctr's I didn't think the cheapest way to fix the motor was part of the question.. I thought he was looking for performance so I said might as well get forged ones because you can pick what you want out of them..

anyways, I'd just replace the rings and head gasket or switch to the LS motor.. either one would be good solutions..

What is PCT? Do u mean CTR's piston? So CTR's piston is not recommend to put on 1.6 block?

Thanks!

#1 I dont have a stock pr3 head.
#2 I read alot of nonsense online as well
#3 i have a built pr3 head with my own P&P hondas P&P isnt the greatest.

and.. why the hostility? are you mad that my 1900kg car makes 205whp? cause its sick :D

no hostility. am i missing the sarcasm? 1900kg car???? i hope you mean 1900lbs. as for your 205whp, i just made a bit over 215whp the other day. 81.25 x 87.2. 11.1/1 c.r. so, your not impressing me (unless its 1.6). i'm here to help, not war. peace:checkered

^^ 1900kg?...that's like 4000 lbs dude....and only 205 whp?...weaksauce=P

lmao yes my car is 4000lbs. i meant lbs

dont call my N/A Motor weaksauce :(

what you running peter?

and for the record 215whp isnt much more than 205 and im not trying to impress you ... just like to remind ppl of Power to Weight ratios...

i'm running stock with ractive goodies=)...you know you jealous

ractive goodies? you have the ractive dash kit? its almost jdm yo... almost... :):):):)


is my car 1900lbs? hahaha, i doubt it... i thought it was like 2200-2300 lbs... 96 ek

fuk jdm....it's all about rdm....ractive domestic market

1996 Honda Civic CX HB MT 2222
1996 Honda Civic CX HB AT 2298
1996 Honda Civic DX HB MT 2242
1996 Honda Civic DX HB AT 2317

i like mine...1995 Honda Civic CX HB MT 2108

Edit: Whoa! i archived an old thread of yours describing your build. i actually responded on it. sorry to tell you buddy, you are not making 205whp. maybe 180-190. but, not 205. not trying to dis, just st8ing facts. 200whp is literally impossible with 87.2, CTR cams and 4-2-1 header w/2" collector. cams and better header will get you there. unless you have changed your set up from a few moths ago. peace

This is jokes, I love reading these posts :cheers:

200whp

Hondata
B18C block
balanced &blueprinted
torque plate honed
type r pistons
Shot-peened rods
micro polished crank
Civic type r crank pulley

Type R head
fully ported & polished
3 angle valve job de-shrouded chambers
Civic Type r cams polished & chamfered
Password JDM carbon fiber intake
Skunk2 Intake manifold ported & polished

2000 Civic SIR Transmission
ACT 8lb Flywheel
DC Sports 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow High flow converter
Greddy twin resonator main pipe
Magnaflow rear section

my motor is FULLY built and i am running 200whp at the wheels. If you disagree. Ill be at Cayuga this weekend. and ill show you my Mid to High 13's...

I was just playing with you no need for hostility...

And dont doubt my motor I have plenty of ppl to vouch for me my friend. It didnt occur to you that i didnt list all my mods? .. rest assured theres 200whp thanks sorry if i hurt your feelings. or made you upset.. lol

=( still waiting for my ractive turbokit... lol

:D your car is clean though i like

lol but not as fast as yours....yet

just noticed you quoted me on your sig=P

guy.. its the **** i kept telling Mike all night about my RDM Civic. now ... if i could only find that RDM Parking assist :D lmao..

this thread sucks without dyno sheets.

my b18c1 just dynoed 260whp... whoa... holy ****. i didn't expect that... best yet, its stock!!!!!


hahaha:)

i second that.....but this thread has nothing to do with dyno=P....it's about the pistons!