imported_loudsubz

Ive been watching my coolant lately because I think I have a small leak on one of the fittings somewhere since ive seen a few spots on the driveway.

I watch my overflow tank and after driving the car for awhile its about half between Max and Min, but when its cold its at or below the Min line, should it be moving that much?

And also should it be checked when its cold or hot?

Buff 'n Stuff

The overflow reservoir should be at or below the maximum line when it's hot, and at the minimum line or there abouts when it's cold. However, the most important thing is that your rad's full at all times. It's best that you open the rad when it's cold, because there's less pressure built up and to prevent getting burned. The best way to make sure your rad's full is to have the motor running and open the cap, so that the coolant is circulating throughout the entire system (rad, block, heater core). In case you don't know, the level should be right up to the top of the opening. If it's not, fill it while the motor's running.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Good question... mine moves a LOT, and I've never had any leaks. it's water... it just evaporates. and yes it expands quite a bit... I check mine hot, cuz when it's cold and at full, well... it might overflow when it gets hot. Other than that, I have no reasoning behind it.

imported_loudsubz

Thanks Chris

what about purging, is it nessessary for any air bubles etc? If so how do I go about it

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

methinks the Civic system is self-purging, cuz the tank is open to air... so any bubbles in the system will just escape. I know on my Prelude there is a nipple for bleeding the coolant system on top of the thermostat housing.

imported_loudsubz

wow B you got a prelude now lol Car *****

Buff 'n Stuff

I'm pretty sure that there's not a bleeder screw on your Civic (as Bruno mentioned). He might be right about the self purging also - not sure.

What I do when there's air in a system, is allow the motor to run until the thermostat opens (you can tell if it has opened by watching the temperature gauge or the fan will turn on). At that time, I open the cap to the first relief click (to relieve the pressure), obviously being careful not to get burnt by using a towel and/or wearing resistant gloves. After the pressure's relieved, I turn the cap the rest of the way and remove. If the coolant level is not to the top of the opening, I fill it until it is. I usually will watch the level for a couple of minutes and see if it goes down again. If the level stays up, I put the cap back on all the way. I keep repeating the process and monitoring the temperature gauge for a few minutes until I'm sure that any air is out of the system.

Long story, but that's how I do it without a bleeder screw. lol

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

keep your pants on... it's an 86 'lude. 230K kms - runs top notch... best of all, it was a freebie!! few hundred bux so far, and it's ready for a safety...