Please dont shoot me!!
#1
Please dont shoot me!!
Hey guys, new to this forum but have been browsing the site for a long time.
I'm savin to do a swap (seriously) and I need to know if it's worth it for me to spend the extra dough to get a B18C or C5. My car is a daily driver and intend to keep it that way. I've researched so many options and I just want to keep it n/a. I've heard so many remarks about just using the money buy the B18A/B and boosting it instead of wasting the money on a GSR or Type R motor. I dont have the time to have to go through tuning the car with the turbo an all that. I just want more power than what my Y8 has to offer (boo). I will eventually change things to the motor but in a gradual process (internals etc). Is it worth it or should I just get the B16A and do some mods to that? Sorry if this a stupid/redundant question to some but would appreciate any feedback.
I'm savin to do a swap (seriously) and I need to know if it's worth it for me to spend the extra dough to get a B18C or C5. My car is a daily driver and intend to keep it that way. I've researched so many options and I just want to keep it n/a. I've heard so many remarks about just using the money buy the B18A/B and boosting it instead of wasting the money on a GSR or Type R motor. I dont have the time to have to go through tuning the car with the turbo an all that. I just want more power than what my Y8 has to offer (boo). I will eventually change things to the motor but in a gradual process (internals etc). Is it worth it or should I just get the B16A and do some mods to that? Sorry if this a stupid/redundant question to some but would appreciate any feedback.
#5
Meh.. that's another option. Personally I found that when you piece a swap together, it costs way more than if you just buy the full swap from somebody/somewhere. When I look back at it.. i probably coulda swapped in a gsr instead of my b20/s80 combo for like $200 more. I kinda regret not doing that...
Either way, weigh the pros cons of each swap then decide.
Either way, weigh the pros cons of each swap then decide.
#6
In terms of budget, I'm willing to save/spend as much as I need to in order to complete the swap that I choose. I guess I'd rather not spend more than 5K. I was told by a friend of mine that he can get me the c5 for bout 3K but I wasnt sure if that was the full swap (motor, tranny, ecu etc) I plan to keep it n/a so once the swap is done, I just plan to buy parts here and there to mod it, nuthin crazy. So for the prices of the B16A, B18c and c5, which would be the best bang for my buck. I was inititally thinkin c5 just b/c yer workin with the best platform of the B's and I don't plan on doin too much more (immediately) once its complete, but is it worth the money for the c5? Or should I spend less on a B16a or c1 and just spend the extra dough on mods? Thanks for the feedback so far.
#7
I'd go for the b18c5 cause with that motor, you don't have to change your valve train if you want to rev it higher, also it's already making decent power AND torque (something the b16 lacks).
My $0.02
My $0.02
#10
GSR/C5 are definitely NOT a waste of money. as for which one, just buy the one that's in your budget and has legitimate history (not stolen). either one will do you good. choose B18C's over B16A's... B16A over B18B if your budget allows.... B20 over B18B.
so if budget allows get a B18C of some kind...
so if budget allows get a B18C of some kind...
#12
You will also need:
rear tranny bracket (the "K" mount)
SiR/ITR radiator (cause the inlet is bigger)
Also, exhaust work cause I know B series standard exhaust manifold will bolt onto stock 6th gen mid-pipe sans cat., so if you need a cat (which I highly suggest), you will need to chop and weld - should you decide to do your I/H/E later.
Look for guys that are switching a complete drivetrain for a different engine (i.e. going from B to K, or B to H) and that way, you can get the most complete swap.
rear tranny bracket (the "K" mount)
SiR/ITR radiator (cause the inlet is bigger)
Also, exhaust work cause I know B series standard exhaust manifold will bolt onto stock 6th gen mid-pipe sans cat., so if you need a cat (which I highly suggest), you will need to chop and weld - should you decide to do your I/H/E later.
Look for guys that are switching a complete drivetrain for a different engine (i.e. going from B to K, or B to H) and that way, you can get the most complete swap.
#16
about 10 hp. same gearing. i would highly recommend a jdm gsr. especially if you plan on modding it for more power, the b18c jdm gsr is the way to go. it is much easier to extract power from a b18c over a b16a.
if you have more money i would take up t dot sir suggestion of a type r.
if you have more money i would take up t dot sir suggestion of a type r.
#18
J Roll,
JDM engines come with wiring harnesses wired to the right, instead of the left (or vice versa, whatever USDM is).. So you have to generally re-wire the harness, or get a conversion harness, or get a usdm harness and swap all the plugs. Otherwise I believe JDM is generally the same and shouldn't be any harder to install than usdm.
Some has subtle differences like location of map sensors, or not having EGR vs having EGR, etc..
JDM engines come with wiring harnesses wired to the right, instead of the left (or vice versa, whatever USDM is).. So you have to generally re-wire the harness, or get a conversion harness, or get a usdm harness and swap all the plugs. Otherwise I believe JDM is generally the same and shouldn't be any harder to install than usdm.
Some has subtle differences like location of map sensors, or not having EGR vs having EGR, etc..
#19
Originally posted by Cablerat
J Roll,
JDM engines come with wiring harnesses wired to the right, instead of the left (or vice versa, whatever USDM is).. So you have to generally re-wire the harness, or get a conversion harness, or get a usdm harness and swap all the plugs. Otherwise I believe JDM is generally the same and shouldn't be any harder to install than usdm.
Some has subtle differences like location of map sensors, or not having EGR vs having EGR, etc..
J Roll,
JDM engines come with wiring harnesses wired to the right, instead of the left (or vice versa, whatever USDM is).. So you have to generally re-wire the harness, or get a conversion harness, or get a usdm harness and swap all the plugs. Otherwise I believe JDM is generally the same and shouldn't be any harder to install than usdm.
Some has subtle differences like location of map sensors, or not having EGR vs having EGR, etc..
#20
Originally posted by john lo
about 10 hp. same gearing. i would highly recommend a jdm gsr. especially if you plan on modding it for more power, the b18c jdm gsr is the way to go.
about 10 hp. same gearing. i would highly recommend a jdm gsr. especially if you plan on modding it for more power, the b18c jdm gsr is the way to go.
you just say that cause you sell them.
USDM gsr's go for much cheaper. I'd look for a usdm gsr just so you save a few bucks.