K-Series is it worth it?
#22
Originally posted by Team Rukus
chris what you have to understand is people that say 8k for a gsr dont know what they are talking or they are just pricing it including all good parts ie. bolt on's that will make the motor even faster.
chris what you have to understand is people that say 8k for a gsr dont know what they are talking or they are just pricing it including all good parts ie. bolt on's that will make the motor even faster.
#25
Originally posted by Zyepher
HACK into it, it can be bone for $5000
HACK into it, it can be bone for $5000
it all depends on what connections you have.
realistically all you need is the mounts and shifter cables/box and some lines.
everything else can be modified to work and work properly at that. and you see k20a2's go for 2500 and there you got yourself a 5000 grand swap.
#26
it all depends on the money and your goals really.. some people say you can do a mildly built b for the same money, but if money doesn't matter to you then you can get greater numbers by building the K.. it's all up to you and what you prefer..
#27
This is a pretty good post... lots of views on the swap!
There are alot of little short-cuts you can take to make the swap cheaper. The stock fuel rail can be tapped to make a return line, the ECU can be hacked to the immobilizer is removed, the shafts can be re-headed RSX's, the shifter can be mounted "truck style", you can use a chopped & modified TSX header, you don't need to get a Revo box... any RSX-S or 01+ Civic shifter box works fine, guys have figured out how to run a 2-pulley setup so you don't need the EP3 idler pully setup, etc, etc.
Things you obviously need are the complete engine & transmission, mounts, wiring harness (so much easier), rsx thermo unit & coolant switch, and get yourself an OE replacement RSX rad... it's full sized and has the coolant switch port in it already.
It is possible to do the swap for cheap and it's relatively easy to do if you're mechanically inclined... BUT, you won't get the hp gains with a chopped TSX header & stock type s or r ECU, you'll probably end up breaking reheaded shafts if you take it to the track, etc.
To be honest, the K moves like no other option... it's instant power and it just wants to keep going and going. Yes, a turbo motor puts out higher numbers, but it's a different kind of fun. Turbo isn't constant power, you obviously can't stay in boost range all the time. You also have to consider the reliability factor... it's pretty easy to get a TypeS to 200-210whp with just an intake, header, exhaust, and Hondata. To get a B or D in that whp range, you're sacrificing some reliability & build issues... the K20 will be pretty much stock still.
All I can say is... it's a completely different feeling, especially on the highway, you can just drop into 5th and walk.
There are alot of little short-cuts you can take to make the swap cheaper. The stock fuel rail can be tapped to make a return line, the ECU can be hacked to the immobilizer is removed, the shafts can be re-headed RSX's, the shifter can be mounted "truck style", you can use a chopped & modified TSX header, you don't need to get a Revo box... any RSX-S or 01+ Civic shifter box works fine, guys have figured out how to run a 2-pulley setup so you don't need the EP3 idler pully setup, etc, etc.
Things you obviously need are the complete engine & transmission, mounts, wiring harness (so much easier), rsx thermo unit & coolant switch, and get yourself an OE replacement RSX rad... it's full sized and has the coolant switch port in it already.
It is possible to do the swap for cheap and it's relatively easy to do if you're mechanically inclined... BUT, you won't get the hp gains with a chopped TSX header & stock type s or r ECU, you'll probably end up breaking reheaded shafts if you take it to the track, etc.
To be honest, the K moves like no other option... it's instant power and it just wants to keep going and going. Yes, a turbo motor puts out higher numbers, but it's a different kind of fun. Turbo isn't constant power, you obviously can't stay in boost range all the time. You also have to consider the reliability factor... it's pretty easy to get a TypeS to 200-210whp with just an intake, header, exhaust, and Hondata. To get a B or D in that whp range, you're sacrificing some reliability & build issues... the K20 will be pretty much stock still.
All I can say is... it's a completely different feeling, especially on the highway, you can just drop into 5th and walk.
#30
If you like HP, then any engine is fine as long as you have money. How much do you think is enough? 400whp? Can an average person even handle or make full use of 400whp? Or even 200whp? So, if maximum HP is you goal, then you definitely have more options than a K engine.
At this very point, K engine swap is really (for average person) a show off thing more than anything else. A trendy engine to have so when you pop the hood the guy next to you will go "wow". (but there is nothing wrong with that)
And if you really have the money, you wouldn't be swapping engine and wondering if 8000 dollars for 210whp is worth the hassle, because you will be walking into a BMW dealership and point to that Montreal Blue colour 2 door coupe that has three stripes and a number 3 next to it and say "dude, where is my key?".
Just a thought.
At this very point, K engine swap is really (for average person) a show off thing more than anything else. A trendy engine to have so when you pop the hood the guy next to you will go "wow". (but there is nothing wrong with that)
And if you really have the money, you wouldn't be swapping engine and wondering if 8000 dollars for 210whp is worth the hassle, because you will be walking into a BMW dealership and point to that Montreal Blue colour 2 door coupe that has three stripes and a number 3 next to it and say "dude, where is my key?".
Just a thought.
#31
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
And if you really have the money, you wouldn't be swapping engine and wondering if 8000 dollars for 210whp is worth the hassle, because you will be walking into a BMW dealership and point to that Montreal Blue colour 2 door coupe that has three stripes and a number 3 next to it and say "dude, where is my key?".
And if you really have the money, you wouldn't be swapping engine and wondering if 8000 dollars for 210whp is worth the hassle, because you will be walking into a BMW dealership and point to that Montreal Blue colour 2 door coupe that has three stripes and a number 3 next to it and say "dude, where is my key?".
#32
Originally posted by VinceTEC
To be honest, the K moves like no other option... it's instant power and it just wants to keep going and going. Yes, a turbo motor puts out higher numbers, but it's a different kind of fun. Turbo isn't constant power, you obviously can't stay in boost range all the time. You also have to consider the reliability factor... it's pretty easy to get a TypeS to 200-210whp with just an intake, header, exhaust, and Hondata. To get a B or D in that whp range, you're sacrificing some reliability & build issues... the K20 will be pretty much stock still.
All I can say is... it's a completely different feeling, especially on the highway, you can just drop into 5th and walk.
To be honest, the K moves like no other option... it's instant power and it just wants to keep going and going. Yes, a turbo motor puts out higher numbers, but it's a different kind of fun. Turbo isn't constant power, you obviously can't stay in boost range all the time. You also have to consider the reliability factor... it's pretty easy to get a TypeS to 200-210whp with just an intake, header, exhaust, and Hondata. To get a B or D in that whp range, you're sacrificing some reliability & build issues... the K20 will be pretty much stock still.
All I can say is... it's a completely different feeling, especially on the highway, you can just drop into 5th and walk.
#34
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
I have always wondered if you take a B20, buit it to the same spec as a K20 (cam profile, and such), how much difference will there be.
I have always wondered if you take a B20, buit it to the same spec as a K20 (cam profile, and such), how much difference will there be.
B20 block-$400
ITR cams & PR3 head-$400
Mugen header-$200 (i was in the right place at the right time)
IM gasket-$40
ported IM-$60
exhaust w/b pipe-$300
SRI-$30
Hondata & tuning-$800
this car was tuned and ran perfect until i sold it. what's that, a bit over $2200? that's not even a built B20. all HOP
#35
There you go. That's what I have been thinking, is that if you build another 2 liter Honda engine with OE parts and more or less OE specs, the difference should be relative the same.
8.5K, you have a completely stock B20 bottom? Still using that flat top 84mm piston?
8.5K, you have a completely stock B20 bottom? Still using that flat top 84mm piston?
#36
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
There you go. That's what I have been thinking, is that if you build another 2 liter Honda engine with OE parts and more or less OE specs, the difference should be relative the same.
8.5K, you have a completely stock B20 bottom? Still using that flat top 84mm piston?
There you go. That's what I have been thinking, is that if you build another 2 liter Honda engine with OE parts and more or less OE specs, the difference should be relative the same.
8.5K, you have a completely stock B20 bottom? Still using that flat top 84mm piston?
#38
i can get all the parts for the swap i mean everything to basicly drop the motor in any chassis for 2600 US so no more then 3000 canadian ( found dc5r ecu so no hondata needed)
motor i bought for 2300 COMPLETE so my build cost 5300 give or take couple bucks for oem honda bits i had to get
ppl analise things way too... much and like what was said earlier
try and do your own work and research and there ARE a couple of short cut that can save you about 1000 bucks
motor i bought for 2300 COMPLETE so my build cost 5300 give or take couple bucks for oem honda bits i had to get
ppl analise things way too... much and like what was said earlier
try and do your own work and research and there ARE a couple of short cut that can save you about 1000 bucks
#40
straight up. K OWNS. i am planning to do one for multiple reasons. RELIABILITY. build your D or B and take it to the track. kapow. rod through the block. wammy goes the piston through the hood. the most you will do with a K is beat it hard so it fries the rings. you have HUGE potential. and it is baller status. every guy has a b16. even gsr or go crazy and pay 4k for a type r. for another 1500 you can get a jdm K. and the biggest reason. is the torque. jdm K R has HUGE TORQUE. horsepower sells. torque gets you across the finish line.PERIOD. K OWNS.