Header Company...
#1
Header Company...
Ok, so I have a GSR motor in my EF, and I am trying to decide which company header to buy, i hear so many mixed reviews on so many companies.
I have been told everything from megan racing to DC sports to Hytech headers and others.
What company would you suggest? why?
I have been told everything from megan racing to DC sports to Hytech headers and others.
What company would you suggest? why?
#2
it all depends on how deep your pockets are and what your final power goals are.
I like RMF.
or
And really like AN-R
for obvious reasons.
The dyno results are as equally impressive as the craftsmanship.
DC is crap IMO.
The Vibrant J-spec is a decent header for the price.
I'm tempted to buy a Rage header to try for myself. You can get the small tube for like $850, which is a lot, but not compared to the price of the DTR, RMF, Hytech, SMSP, and AN-R.
Some of the custom ones may not be compatible with a/c or power steering, but you're definately going to see the best results with the more expensive brands.
I like RMF.
or
And really like AN-R
for obvious reasons.
The dyno results are as equally impressive as the craftsmanship.
DC is crap IMO.
The Vibrant J-spec is a decent header for the price.
I'm tempted to buy a Rage header to try for myself. You can get the small tube for like $850, which is a lot, but not compared to the price of the DTR, RMF, Hytech, SMSP, and AN-R.
Some of the custom ones may not be compatible with a/c or power steering, but you're definately going to see the best results with the more expensive brands.
#4
there are a few, but it all depends on your goals.....oops, Z already said that. for a mild set up, i'd go Megan 4-1 w/2.5" collector (with skidplate). from there i'd go Vibrant 4-2-1 j-spec. the next level is, i guess, is the Rage small tube, Profab/Jerry Built/SMSP shelf header & Toda 4-2-1 (big paper). if you need the best of the best...RMF, Hytech, SSR (street sweeper) & SMSP are the cream of the crop. each unit will set you back $1000-1300US. but, you never have to buy a header again if you bought any of those 4. and, they'll probably make 10whp and 7wtq more, throughout the band, than any of the mentioned off shelf headers.
#5
well most of the headers that zeeman suggested are way to much for your setup they are designed for 2.0l + setups
edlebrok (sp) with 2.5 collector welded on (apparetnly has nice sized primaries)
rage or profab (about 7-800)
man stay away fromt his megan dc garbage...
get a rage or pro fab is my chioce for you
edlebrok (sp) with 2.5 collector welded on (apparetnly has nice sized primaries)
rage or profab (about 7-800)
man stay away fromt his megan dc garbage...
get a rage or pro fab is my chioce for you
#6
Originally posted by dingus888
well most of the headers that zeeman suggested are way to much for your setup they are designed for 2.0l + setups
well most of the headers that zeeman suggested are way to much for your setup they are designed for 2.0l + setups
I know a few people with the RMF headers on mildly built gsr/itrs/lsvtecs with amazing results.
Now, you're right in saying that those headers are too much for his setup, b/c they aren't designed for a stock gsr. But if he has any plans on chaning cams/doing headwork, then i'd grab a good header now, and enjoy not being held back by a cheaper header once you do build up the engine a bit.
If he doesn't have any plans on building the engine, a $1200US header would definately be a bad idea.
I'd say a Rage or Profab would be a good choice as well, even if you decide to do some internals, they'll still provide good power.
But if you only ever plan on doing bolt-ons, just grab a vibrant, mugen or megan like m_power said.
#7
header
hey guys,
I neglected to mention that my engine is fully built! I mean everything up to ITB's, so i am looking for a high-end header.
So anyways, an expensive header is what i have in mind.
I neglected to mention that my engine is fully built! I mean everything up to ITB's, so i am looking for a high-end header.
So anyways, an expensive header is what i have in mind.
#9
that's the first motor with ITB's that i've seen without proper crankcase and valvecover ventilation. hmmmm...i hope that motor has some sick compression, headwork and cams to feed those ITB's. here's a word of advice, if you bought it that way, do a leak down bofore install. if its just built, break it in properly, dawg. anyway, you need to more specific about your set up before we can help out.
Dingus888- i currently run that jg/edelbrock with collector mod. it makes very good power. it can hang with some of the best headers up to 8700rpm. anything beyond that (9-10K) and the other custom headers will absolutely crush it.
Dingus888- i currently run that jg/edelbrock with collector mod. it makes very good power. it can hang with some of the best headers up to 8700rpm. anything beyond that (9-10K) and the other custom headers will absolutely crush it.
#10
yes, the motor does have very high compression, with custom pistons, shaved head head that is properly balanced, Skunk2 racing cams, all the rod ends were done, cam gears adjusted properly, and i did do a leak down.
The engine management is a 1.5 bar SRS.
The engine management is a 1.5 bar SRS.
#15
oh....i was sort of figuring that u meant SDS.
Does the unit you have control ignition timing? If not, you might wanna get something that does. I know crome has ITB tools and i believe hondata does too.
Does the unit you have control ignition timing? If not, you might wanna get something that does. I know crome has ITB tools and i believe hondata does too.
#20
Originally posted by Jameson
yes, the motor does have very high compression, with custom pistons, shaved head head that is properly balanced, Skunk2 racing cams, all the rod ends were done, cam gears adjusted properly
yes, the motor does have very high compression, with custom pistons, shaved head head that is properly balanced, Skunk2 racing cams, all the rod ends were done, cam gears adjusted properly
Edit- i just noticed you have an EF. your choice is limited to probably the RMF narrow. any other quality header would require you to replace the front cm with traction bars.