finishing motor swap
#1
finishing motor swap
hey guys im almost done my motor swap its a z6 into a 95 coupe.now ive disconnected every wire,connector,ground,and vacuum hoses,fuel filter,battery terminal,rad hoses all of that stuff. now i just need the axles off cat off and shifter linkage off,but the bolt on the cat are so rusted to hell a socket wont work on them.and my axles no matter how hard i try they wont come off.now i put my steelies on so i have access to the axle nut and i completely lowered the car so the wheel cant move but i cant get the nut off im using a 32mm socket and a 2 foot breaker bar and by no means am i weak.is there a trick to this i dont want to round off the bolt.thanks.also any opinions on dropping the motor from the bottom because i dont have a engine hoist thanks.
#3
ok nevermind the axles i got the nut off i realized what i did wrong i had an extension on my 1/2 drive ratchet so it wasnt putting enough torque on it so i got the nut off and the lower castle nut and cotter pin out whats next to taking the axle out ?? so i have to remove that 17mm bolt that goes thru the suspension fork to the other 17 mm that hold the bolt in place???
EDIT: i got the thru bolt out now im having trouble breaking the lower balljoint free from the hub ive been hitting that flat spot between the threads and balljoint for about 10 minutes straight and it wont budge
EDIT: i got the thru bolt out now im having trouble breaking the lower balljoint free from the hub ive been hitting that flat spot between the threads and balljoint for about 10 minutes straight and it wont budge
#4
You don't have to remove the suspension fork.
You need a ball joint seperator that you stick in between the joint and pry it apart. There's different kinds.. One is a C clamp style and another looks like a tuning fork. If you using the tuning fork kind, make sure you grease up the ball joint good first because you will probably rip the boot..
Once you relase the joint, just lift the whole spindle out, pull the shaft out and let the spindle rest on the shaft. To get the shaft out, shift a flat head driver in between the tranny and the shaft and pry it..
As for the exhaust bolts, if they are stripped and rusted you will have to cut the bolts. Hacksaw's work well... Just make sure you're careful cuz those bolt have springs and the bolt will shoot out right as you finish cutting through.
As for the shift linkage.. There's 2 rods.. one is a bolt and the other is a pin... The easiest way to get the pin out is to find a bolt of the same diameter. Line the bolt up with the pin and hammer the pin out the top. BTW, the pin is hidden behind the rubber boot on the linkage. push it forward to see the pin.
You need a ball joint seperator that you stick in between the joint and pry it apart. There's different kinds.. One is a C clamp style and another looks like a tuning fork. If you using the tuning fork kind, make sure you grease up the ball joint good first because you will probably rip the boot..
Once you relase the joint, just lift the whole spindle out, pull the shaft out and let the spindle rest on the shaft. To get the shaft out, shift a flat head driver in between the tranny and the shaft and pry it..
As for the exhaust bolts, if they are stripped and rusted you will have to cut the bolts. Hacksaw's work well... Just make sure you're careful cuz those bolt have springs and the bolt will shoot out right as you finish cutting through.
As for the shift linkage.. There's 2 rods.. one is a bolt and the other is a pin... The easiest way to get the pin out is to find a bolt of the same diameter. Line the bolt up with the pin and hammer the pin out the top. BTW, the pin is hidden behind the rubber boot on the linkage. push it forward to see the pin.
#5
Don't worry about the bolts for the exhaust, they are cheap and you can get them in a kit so I always cut them. It's not worth the hassle. Oh and when you cut them make sure you don't catch it in the face.
To separate the lower ball joint get a BFH. Don't be a princess hit it hard.
To separate the lower ball joint get a BFH. Don't be a princess hit it hard.
#6
ok ive gotten one side axle out completely but the passenger side wont budge the person who last did the axles punched the metal tab in way to far now its wedged in onto the spindle is the only way of getting it out a air gun?
#8
Originally posted by italstallion
ok ive gotten one side axle out completely but the passenger side wont budge the person who last did the axles punched the metal tab in way to far now its wedged in onto the spindle is the only way of getting it out a air gun?
ok ive gotten one side axle out completely but the passenger side wont budge the person who last did the axles punched the metal tab in way to far now its wedged in onto the spindle is the only way of getting it out a air gun?
If the nut still won't come of buy a small propane torch from CT, the little blue one for $10 and heat it up and try again. Also to get more torque use a long bar. The other week I had to use a 6 foot pole to manage to get enough torque.
#10
Originally posted by chris_si98
geez.. what were you taking off man?
geez.. what were you taking off man?
#12
when cracking the ball joint loose leave the 17mm bolt that holds the shock fork to the lower control arm in. This will make cracking that sucker loose with a BFH so much easier. I used to take that 17mm bolt out first too, but i find with it in it only takes a few slugs with a hammer, at my house i use a regular hammer, nothing heavy duty and it works fine. Pickle forks can make a nice mess of the balljoint boot, especially if you don't know how to use it properly.
For the axle nut, i'd say about 30% of the time when i try to remove them they don't budge, not even with a torch or impact gun. A chisel and hammer are the only way to get them off sometimes.
But you need to pry the tab up. We used to have this tool that worked killer, it was a punch of some sort, with the end grinded off to sharp wide point, so it would get under that tab on the end of the axle really well, no matter how much it was steaked.
I find the best way to get the "bitch pin" (pin that holds the shift linkage to the tanny) out is with an air chisle and 8mm punch. The chisle will only get it out so much, then you need the 8mm punch to hammer it the rest of the way out.
For the axle nut, i'd say about 30% of the time when i try to remove them they don't budge, not even with a torch or impact gun. A chisel and hammer are the only way to get them off sometimes.
But you need to pry the tab up. We used to have this tool that worked killer, it was a punch of some sort, with the end grinded off to sharp wide point, so it would get under that tab on the end of the axle really well, no matter how much it was steaked.
I find the best way to get the "bitch pin" (pin that holds the shift linkage to the tanny) out is with an air chisle and 8mm punch. The chisle will only get it out so much, then you need the 8mm punch to hammer it the rest of the way out.
#13
ok guys i got the balljoint out my removing the castle nut then raising the hub assembly from underneath the rotor.i raised it maybe 6 inches then about 5 swings with a baby hammer and it popped off.still need the other axle out i just went out and bought a 230 ft lbs impact wrench and a 7 gallon air tank i just need to fill it up and give it a go
#14
better be a 1" drive impact gun....b/c i've seen axle nuts own plenty of 1/2" drive impact guns. But then again, i've got many axle nuts off with a 1/2" drive impact both air and electric.
#18
ok ive tried everything to get this nut off ive even used a propane torch to heat the bolt up and chisel some more of the nut off and it still wont budge,tried taking the wheel off and sticking a screwdriver and that snapped,im at a complete stand still.if anyone has an impact gun and a compressor and such please pm me i will even pay for your time to come down here i just want this nut out lol.
#20
Originally posted by eth0r
meh, i just get a dremel and cut it it last time i had a problem with one
meh, i just get a dremel and cut it it last time i had a problem with one