which engine is best for boost
#1
which engine is best for boost
hey guys just wondering which engine is best to boost out of the four:
b16
b18b
b18c
or b18c5
and how much boost can each engine run safely when stock.
also what can you do to maintane a turbo engine as oppose to a stock engine? thanx a lot.
b16
b18b
b18c
or b18c5
and how much boost can each engine run safely when stock.
also what can you do to maintane a turbo engine as oppose to a stock engine? thanx a lot.
#2
well what numbers are looking at making?
are you gona keep it stock? or build it up?
you want a relatively cheap motor or expensive?
b18b is a nice cheap swap that is good for boost.. and if you blow something, they are a dime a dozen and pretty cheap. Good starter motor, imo.
are you gona keep it stock? or build it up?
you want a relatively cheap motor or expensive?
b18b is a nice cheap swap that is good for boost.. and if you blow something, they are a dime a dozen and pretty cheap. Good starter motor, imo.
#3
I'd say B18B because they are cheap, and because I heard you don't get a dip in ur power band when VTEC engages with turbocharged VTEC engines...if you don't tune it.
I saw someone selling a built block with turbo pistons and machined head on a board some where for 500, if i could afford down time with my car, I'd get that right now.
I saw someone selling a built block with turbo pistons and machined head on a board some where for 500, if i could afford down time with my car, I'd get that right now.
#4
#5
b18b is non vtec.
There shouldn't be a dip in power at the vtec crossover.
Tuning is an absolute MUST, so don't even think about not getting it tuned.
B18a/b's are good b/c of their low compression ratio. B16s have 10.210.4:1 CR (which is ok for boost, but not too much boost), b18c1's are about 10/10.6:1 CR (which again is ok for boost, but not too much) and B18C5's are like 10.8/11.3:1 CR (which is a little high if you ask me, but people do boost stock ITR's).
The lower the compression the more boost you can safely run (generally speaking) and the larger margin of error you have when it comes to tuning. People have made 350-400+whp on stock b16/b18b/b18c1's but on a pretty conservative/reliable setup 250-300whp is quite common.
There shouldn't be a dip in power at the vtec crossover.
Tuning is an absolute MUST, so don't even think about not getting it tuned.
B18a/b's are good b/c of their low compression ratio. B16s have 10.210.4:1 CR (which is ok for boost, but not too much boost), b18c1's are about 10/10.6:1 CR (which again is ok for boost, but not too much) and B18C5's are like 10.8/11.3:1 CR (which is a little high if you ask me, but people do boost stock ITR's).
The lower the compression the more boost you can safely run (generally speaking) and the larger margin of error you have when it comes to tuning. People have made 350-400+whp on stock b16/b18b/b18c1's but on a pretty conservative/reliable setup 250-300whp is quite common.
#9
well i was thinking of boosting a b18c5 but what can i do over time to make it somewhat more reliable?? and it will be tunned they tell me at splitfire i can exp[ect 310 whp on 6psi with exhaust andf proper tunning done
#10
dont get it tuned by splitfire man.. (unless if you know them personally)
My friend went there with a built lsvtec and made some real ****ty numbers, since it wasn't built my Paul he didn't care and blamed the builder.
go to Neetronics. or contact zeeman.
My friend went there with a built lsvtec and made some real ****ty numbers, since it wasn't built my Paul he didn't care and blamed the builder.
go to Neetronics. or contact zeeman.
#13
it sounds like you have a lot more research to do before boosting. why do you insist on boosting a type r? just because you'll have an r? it'll be one expensive repair if you blow a c5 compared to a c1. just boost a c1 man.
#14
ya, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing all of the internals (pistons/rods) with lower compression forged parts you might as well start with the cheaper engine (gsr compared to ITR).
Tuning is key for reliability, bigger injectors (DSM blue/black tops or any other 440+cc of your choice) and a custom chip made in crome and a larger fuel pump will do for engine management. Make sure your cooling system is up to par (new water pump, make sure the rad hoses are ok, maybe a bigger rad/thin fan if your having temperature issues). Wiring up your rad fan so that it comes on full time might be a good idea too. A good clucth is a must for turbo setups. Also, make sure your ignition system is up to par (dizzy, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs) a step or two colder plugs are a really good idea as well. Don't forget sticky tires.
Tuning is key for reliability, bigger injectors (DSM blue/black tops or any other 440+cc of your choice) and a custom chip made in crome and a larger fuel pump will do for engine management. Make sure your cooling system is up to par (new water pump, make sure the rad hoses are ok, maybe a bigger rad/thin fan if your having temperature issues). Wiring up your rad fan so that it comes on full time might be a good idea too. A good clucth is a must for turbo setups. Also, make sure your ignition system is up to par (dizzy, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs) a step or two colder plugs are a really good idea as well. Don't forget sticky tires.
#15
thanx a lot for all the help guys actually this question wasnt for me its for a friend that can either buy a boosted type r or a boosted gsr but doesnt know which one to go for i was telling him to build his own thats why i suggested b16 and b18b but i should tell him to go for the GSR?
#16
Originally posted by zeeman
ya, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing all of the internals (pistons/rods) with lower compression forged parts you might as well start with the cheaper engine (gsr compared to ITR).
Tuning is key for reliability, bigger injectors (DSM blue/black tops or any other 440+cc of your choice) and a custom chip made in crome and a larger fuel pump will do for engine management. Make sure your cooling system is up to par (new water pump, make sure the rad hoses are ok, maybe a bigger rad/thin fan if your having temperature issues). Wiring up your rad fan so that it comes on full time might be a good idea too. A good clucth is a must for turbo setups. Also, make sure your ignition system is up to par (dizzy, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs) a step or two colder plugs are a really good idea as well. Don't forget sticky tires.
ya, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing all of the internals (pistons/rods) with lower compression forged parts you might as well start with the cheaper engine (gsr compared to ITR).
Tuning is key for reliability, bigger injectors (DSM blue/black tops or any other 440+cc of your choice) and a custom chip made in crome and a larger fuel pump will do for engine management. Make sure your cooling system is up to par (new water pump, make sure the rad hoses are ok, maybe a bigger rad/thin fan if your having temperature issues). Wiring up your rad fan so that it comes on full time might be a good idea too. A good clucth is a must for turbo setups. Also, make sure your ignition system is up to par (dizzy, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs) a step or two colder plugs are a really good idea as well. Don't forget sticky tires.
tell your friend to give you details on both setups (the c5 and c1)
I'm sure both setups aren't the same. And ask who tuned it, what type of management, if the internals were modified, etc. Those items matter more than what engine was used IMO.
#17
b18b or b18c1 are both good choice for boosting... both for reasons of decent compression and the tranny is long enough for boosted cars...
b18c5 is boost-able too, but since the compression is so high, i rather go n/a on it.... like aggressive cams, valvetrain, higher compression pistons, bigger injectors... that's more ideal IMO
b16a is a good boosting motor too, but the tranny is too short... i think the b18b or b18c tranny is sweet for boosting...
plus the money you put in a b18... you will have plenty of money to build a good turbo kit.. and you can also upgrade the rads, do the misc stuff like spark plugs, dizzy cap/rotor, and waterpump/oilpump/fuelpump, etc.... then you'll still have cash to do good tuning.. remember you need atleast a clutch to handle 300-400whp (just in case you will go that much in the future) and if you wish, get lsd for the b18 tranny too...
upgrade tires and suspension, or even brakes if necessary
b18c5 is boost-able too, but since the compression is so high, i rather go n/a on it.... like aggressive cams, valvetrain, higher compression pistons, bigger injectors... that's more ideal IMO
b16a is a good boosting motor too, but the tranny is too short... i think the b18b or b18c tranny is sweet for boosting...
plus the money you put in a b18... you will have plenty of money to build a good turbo kit.. and you can also upgrade the rads, do the misc stuff like spark plugs, dizzy cap/rotor, and waterpump/oilpump/fuelpump, etc.... then you'll still have cash to do good tuning.. remember you need atleast a clutch to handle 300-400whp (just in case you will go that much in the future) and if you wish, get lsd for the b18 tranny too...
upgrade tires and suspension, or even brakes if necessary
#18
Originally posted by chris_si98
pft 440cc if he wants to build the block?
pft 440cc if he wants to build the block?
I guess i should've emphasized the "or any other440+ of your choice" in my last post for ya chris