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-   -   D16y8 Rebuild Estimates (https://www.civicforumz.com/honda-civic-performance-jdm-discussion-14/d16y8-rebuild-estimates-109441/)

imported_curlybandit 18-Jul-2006 10:57 AM

D16y8 Rebuild Estimates
 
I got a '96 Si with ~230,000 kms on the motor. It still runs great and I baby the S*** out of it, but I know that even with that, it'll eventually need some work.

I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas of how much a rebuild would cost for a D16y8. How much does a rebuild kit usually cost and what's needed for a complete rebuild?

If I don't plan on doing it myself, any ideas of how much it would cost to take it to a recommended location/mechanic?

Thanks.

imported_t_dot_SiR 18-Jul-2006 11:27 AM

simply not worth the rebuilt unless you know you'll be driving the car another 4-5 years of about 100000km

if your engine is really healthy now like you had super care of it, just drive it and continue to care about it

honda engines can last quite a bit if you give proper car, i've seen ones that goes all the way to 400,000 km without much problem... that is if you regular oil change, and tune-ups on time, and you don't drive the sh!t out of it...

you probably still have another 40000-60000 km before your next timing belt and water pumps changed.... if you already had your first one like 30000-40000km ago... again, check the scheduling, to see if you need any seals replacement, need any new head gaskets, need any fuel pump replacement...

you seriously don't need a rebuilt if its healthy IMO =)

save up your money for a new car a few years later

imported_mikepasini 18-Jul-2006 12:23 PM

swap...

imported_curlybandit 18-Jul-2006 01:10 PM

Well, I just picked up the car in Sept/05, and I plan on keeping the car for at least another 4 maybe 5 years, as long as it holds out that long, (I do like to open it up sometimes...)

So.... how much would it cost? (Guestimate)

Would it be worth the cost to rebuild if I wanted to go turbo vs a swap? (i.e. turbo D16 vs B16 swap.....just a hypothetical....)

btw, timing belt/water pump was done about a month ago

bbarbulo 18-Jul-2006 01:16 PM

just keep rocking the D. I've seen many well treated cars with original engines hold up to 400+ thousand kms. so if you do treat it right, fear no road. once it starts to get tired, your options are a freshening up, with OEM parts.... costing about a grand plus R&R (remove and reinstall) on the engine. the other option is to get a complete swap from a lower mileage accident vehicle for about $500-600 plus R&R, but then you are getting an engine that is in unknown condition.

imported_SaYjAiBaO 18-Jul-2006 01:42 PM

keep the d, b16 swap is seriously overrated. i walk b16 coupes with my z6 hatch and my swap cost me 500 bucks. d motors are strong in stock form i tell ya. you can abuse it enough and it will still run strong. i say you buy a cheap d series motor on the side and build it for boost. the motors go for dirt cheap, just do your research. you'll be all over the b's with your boosted d :thumbup:.

chris_si98 18-Jul-2006 01:44 PM

ya untill the D blows. lol

zeeman 18-Jul-2006 04:34 PM

with what you would spend building/boosting a D you can buy a b-series and boost it and make the same power on stock internals, then if you wanna take the time to build the B-series for boost, then 600+whp is completely possible.
B16 swaps are over rated, but a b20 w/gsr tranny makes for a hella fun car and theres room for either a vtec head swap or boost to make more power.

Rebuilding an engine will cost around $2000....if you do all of the work yourself.
Rings - $150
Bearings - $300
Gaskets/seals - $300
Timing belt - $100
Water pump - $100
Oil pump - $200
Machine work - $200 (as a bare minimum)
Clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/pilot bearing - $400
These aren't the exact prices but pretty close if you use OEM parts (which i would do). Add another $1000 if you have to pay someone to pull the engine out, rebuild it and install it.

imported_SaYjAiBaO 18-Jul-2006 09:32 PM

a built d's power output can be matched by a stock b but how much could you beat on the d compared to the b? 400whp is achievable on a d but who needs that kind of power on the streets anyways.

chris_si98 18-Jul-2006 10:14 PM

if you had 3000$ to spend.. you could barely get a full b18c5 swap.

but you could have a boosted D with 200whp. But the D is un-reliable. Each have its pros and cons.

And I know andrew will come back and say he can built a b20vtec with 200whp for close to 3000$.

imported_2join performance 18-Jul-2006 11:06 PM

The d is reliable.

imported_SilverSleeper 18-Jul-2006 11:12 PM


Originally posted by chris_si98
if you had 3000$ to spend.. you could barely get a full b18c5 swap.

but you could have a boosted D with 200whp. But the D is un-reliable. Each have its pros and cons.

And I know andrew will come back and say he can built a b20vtec with 200whp for close to 3000$.

Your biased, plain and simple.

Just because your D blew does not mean D's are unreliable. There a lot of lightly turbo'd D's that work reliably and consistently. Furthermore, to echo Bruno, the D series rather than the B is the one you see live to 400+k anyhow.

So in short, stop being so bitter :p.

chris_si98 18-Jul-2006 11:36 PM

there are more d16's that blow than last 10,000 km. Atleast from what I've seen.

And I was talking more in a sense that there are a lot of problems that arise when you boost a motor. ( boost leak, exhaust leaks, wastegate problems, oil leak, coolant leaks, etc.)

imported_SilverSleeper 18-Jul-2006 11:43 PM

It's all in the tuning and the maintenance. Simple as that.

Da_rimrocka3 19-Jul-2006 12:50 AM

i'd have to agree with silver, if u get a ****ty job done on any motor it simply wont last, in fact my mechanic has a built d, boosted, nearly 300whp and running as strong as any motor out. almost 3 years now as a daily driver. it all depends on the quality of parts and the quality of work u put into it.

imported_doggy69247 19-Jul-2006 03:07 AM

i have blown d and b so i cant say eather way :)



the d i spun a bearing i was told and the b if u burn oil and dont keep a close eye on it u wil blow #2 i think it was it starvs ov oil for 1 seckond and boom of it goes i got mine 2 go out the back then out the bottom and then out the front aswell split the motor clean in half it was real messy

chris_si98 19-Jul-2006 11:34 AM


Originally posted by SilverSleeper
It's all in the tuning and the maintenance. Simple as that.
meh boost a y7 or y8 then come tell me its real reliable at 200whp

:p

zeeman 19-Jul-2006 01:20 PM


Originally posted by SilverSleeper
It's all in the tuning and the maintenance. Simple as that.
unfortunately, thats not true at all.
Tuning is KEY, but having a strong engine and a well planned out setup is very important. Boosted cars are high maintainance and quite expensive to maintain....and not what i would recommend for someone who would use it as a daily driver, especially if they don't have another car or access to another car when stuff goes wrong, or if they aren't necessarily mechanically inclined.

chris_si98 19-Jul-2006 01:24 PM


Originally posted by zeeman


unfortunately, thats not true at all.
Tuning is KEY, but having a strong engine and a well planned out setup is very important. Boosted cars are high maintainance and quite expensive to maintain....and not what i would recommend for someone who would use it as a daily driver, especially if they don't have another car or access to another car when stuff goes wrong, or if they aren't necessarily mechanically inclined.


:thumbup: tuning is key.. but tuning doesn't affect things like oil leaks, exhaust leaks, etc. All those things can make your life real ****ty when you don't have a back up car and your feedline is leaking like a mofo

zeeman 19-Jul-2006 01:33 PM


Originally posted by chris_si98
:thumbup: tuning is key.. but tuning doesn't affect things like oil leaks, exhaust leaks, etc. All those things can make your life real ****ty when you don't have a back up car and your feedline is leaking like a mofo
Word....talking from first hand experience.


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