Car Troubles....
24-May-2003, 12:04 PM
#1
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Car Troubles....
Ok, so I finally got my car started today.
I pull it out of my garage, and I notice that there is an oil leak (very dark), and possibly a tranny leak. It also goes crazy idle. It almost feels like its going to stall out every 2 seconds. My tire is also flat as hell.
I need to get these problems fixed. What can I do and possible where ?
I pull it out of my garage, and I notice that there is an oil leak (very dark), and possibly a tranny leak. It also goes crazy idle. It almost feels like its going to stall out every 2 seconds. My tire is also flat as hell.
I need to get these problems fixed. What can I do and possible where ?
24-May-2003, 06:07 PM
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i got the motomaster battery charger and start-up thing I have for my boat battery, but I switched it over and boosted it.
I head that I need to clean my throttle body, but I want to make sure that is the only problem.
The problems I am having are that when I start it, and it is idling, it will almost shut off unless I have my foot on the gas at 1500 rpm or else it will stall out. Another problem is, when I drive it for a bit, it will go crazy idle from 700-1500 !
What are the possibilities ?
I head that I need to clean my throttle body, but I want to make sure that is the only problem.
The problems I am having are that when I start it, and it is idling, it will almost shut off unless I have my foot on the gas at 1500 rpm or else it will stall out. Another problem is, when I drive it for a bit, it will go crazy idle from 700-1500 !
What are the possibilities ?
24-May-2003, 06:42 PM
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Originally posted by dented dx
the poor happy B16, it'll be all messed up before it hits the road again
the poor happy B16, it'll be all messed up before it hits the road again
What are you trying to say? I break it ?I didn't turn it on for about 2 weeks because I was busy, and when I did go to turn it on, the battery was dead. And the thing about the idleing was going on since I purchase the car from Dan.....
I remember him saying something the the vacuum and something else needed to be replaced soon.....
25-May-2003, 09:41 PM
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None of those parts need to be replaced...I did a tune up myself last summer so there are maybe 20k on the plugs, filters, oil.
The oil is Amsoil Synthetic which explanes why it is so dark... it's clean...trust me.
As for the idle, I've told you a few times now what to do and until you do those things I can't help you. I'm just saying what I would do to diagnose the problem and you need to do it to rule things out and/or confirm things.
The oil is Amsoil Synthetic which explanes why it is so dark... it's clean...trust me.
As for the idle, I've told you a few times now what to do and until you do those things I can't help you. I'm just saying what I would do to diagnose the problem and you need to do it to rule things out and/or confirm things.
25-May-2003, 11:58 PM
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ok, so you would like me to clean out the throttle body ?
I have no idea how to do this, and I dont want to **** up anything. Anyone want to do it for me and be liable for any damages ?
How much would a shop charge to do that ?
I have no idea how to do this, and I dont want to **** up anything. Anyone want to do it for me and be liable for any damages ?
How much would a shop charge to do that ?
26-May-2003, 10:28 AM
#17
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Wow, hard to believe but there are quite a few people who are totally clueless to basic engine maintenance.. Geeze forget that.. Some people don't even know what engine they have under their hoods...
Like happy said, check the idle air control valve and the fast idle valve.
The idle air control value is the thing right on the back of the intake manifold. Has an wiring plugged into it.
The fast idle value looks similar to it. Sits below the intake manifold, it has 2 coolant lines and 1 air line connected to it.. If your car has the idle problem while it's WARM then this valve is FINE and should not be touched. This valve is only used to maintain a stable idle while the engine is cold. It allows air to flow into the manifold until the coolant warms up.
Remove and clean. Don't go bending the internals, just clean as much as possible.
Don't open these components either, cuz then it can get annoying trying to put them back. Also, cleaning them doesn't mean its gonna fix them, they could still be messed.
Another possibility is your coolant level. If your coolant level is low, then coolant may not flow into the coolant temp sensor causing engine idle problems. Just because the rad is full, doesn't mean the system is full, you could have air in the line causing airlock. Open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing. Its below the distributor. Then add coolant to the radiator until it seeps out the bleed valve.
hope this helps..
Like happy said, check the idle air control valve and the fast idle valve.
The idle air control value is the thing right on the back of the intake manifold. Has an wiring plugged into it.
The fast idle value looks similar to it. Sits below the intake manifold, it has 2 coolant lines and 1 air line connected to it.. If your car has the idle problem while it's WARM then this valve is FINE and should not be touched. This valve is only used to maintain a stable idle while the engine is cold. It allows air to flow into the manifold until the coolant warms up.
Remove and clean. Don't go bending the internals, just clean as much as possible.
Don't open these components either, cuz then it can get annoying trying to put them back. Also, cleaning them doesn't mean its gonna fix them, they could still be messed.
Another possibility is your coolant level. If your coolant level is low, then coolant may not flow into the coolant temp sensor causing engine idle problems. Just because the rad is full, doesn't mean the system is full, you could have air in the line causing airlock. Open the bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing. Its below the distributor. Then add coolant to the radiator until it seeps out the bleed valve.
hope this helps..
