SpeedyGonzalez

hey guys im new here. Hows every one doing ? Just needed some input on a certain matter or plan that i have been thinking of putting into action.

Im thinking of building a N/A civic for daily driving, something modest, yet something good enough to give your average bmw owner a good scare or run for every penny.

I was thinking the following :

-92-94 hatch
-H22a motor with some internal work *headers, cams*
-tranny (lsd)
ecu
of course the suspension, breaks and tires will have to be addressed as well, but thats something im not worried bout right now.

What do you guys think, would something like the above setup net good 1/4 mile times atleast a mid- low 14 sec pass. At the same time keep the daily driving reliability in check ? ..

Any suggestions on the model or year of the civic would be appreciated as well. im looking to get the lightest platform as well, so that my power to weight ratio isnt out of whack either. ...thanks in advance

cosmic zx2

why not build a CRV-tec?
and the lightest civic is the VX and then the CX

and welcome to the club

cosmic zx2

click here to see what a crv-tec is capable of

punkindrublic

ya i'd agree... even just running a stock b20z with a gsr tranny would be nice... but a nicely built b20 vtec is the best you can do really... thats what i wanna do this winter/spring

click here for what you can do wiht a b20 and some bling bling....


280hp @ 9500 rpm all motor 2.0L

805CiViC

Daaaammmnnn that looks like alot of work. Sweet result though. About how much does a CR-VTEC swap cost?

imported_BoOsTd

if you want a light platforme, scrap the h22 idea... IMO they are way to heavy for a civics front end... Oversteer ect...

Mugen Power

that's a wicked set up. too bad it costs about $10,000 to build. n/a is nice, but the cost of the build up (every possible thing being strenghthened and upgraded) is astronomical. stock block b20's will last a bit, as long as you don't overrev them.

Ryan

hey speedy..u should build ur suspension and brakes first b4 i install something like a h22..b/c ur gonna be going fast and u wont be able to stop man..also the oversteer with a civic having a h22 dropped wont happen if your suspension is done right.

dingus8

there is a guy on this board hyperflow maybe I forget thoguh and he is sellign a built to the tit's h22 with rods pistons and skunk 2 cams with tranny and mounts for liek 5000 it's amazing....a b20 vtec = complete garbage unless your sleeving and buildign it completly liek rods pisotns huge cams...yada yada....you codul build a b series to...b18c with ctr pistons and jun 3's with soem tunign woudl be a real nice setup

Rice Burner

The question really is how much do you wanna spen?
As you can see there are different suggestion's and they all range in price!
You could make what ever you want fast, just how fast depends on how much you wanna spend! Don't forget though once you pass a certain limit of mods there is no turning back and for as long as you own it you are repairing things and have to spend more to mod the next thing in order to work in conjunction with what you've done! Trust me!

imported_BoOsTd

Speaking the truth... you will be into a lifetime of repairs and high maintence bills... if you do the engine, then u do the drivetrain, brakes, suspension...ect dont forget you will be spending over 500$ just in prepareing the engine bay for an H22.. like mounts and shyt...

I would stick with a B series with internals done...

SpeedyGonzalez

hey guys im back, just got busy with work..not much time on my hands..well heres what i had in mind...a h22a with tranny , lsd..etc..etc...but the question that runs to mind immediatly is how much is all this gonna cost. Yeah i would love to have this car sitting on my drive way , but for now i have to take it step by step, i guess im willing to drop bout 13k into the car..on the whole..after everythings said and done (of course thats excluding car price)

I heard there are shops that would do the whole swap with tranny ..mounting, and everything else for around 6gs. Now i understand there are after install charges like tuning, upgrade parts..etc.

My reasons for choosing the h22a is the torque! . 152 lbs of torque in a light hatch should do the trick. Let alone with that displacement ...anything is possible in the future, after i have saved up more money.

The b20 swap looks intresting, but like another memeber pointed out wouldnt it have to be rebuilt all over?. Im looking for an engine I can drop in and run for some time. plus our winters so i guess i have to gain some weight some where to keep the car on the road.

Basically im planning on finding the lightest chasis so that even if i drop in a h22a , my power to weight will not be too off skewed.

Well what do you guys think ? ..think the h22a is still the way to go. or would it be easier and cost effective if i dropped 1.8 DOCH engine in there ?

imported_MY SiR

If you want torque and are willing to spend about 13gs on "upgrades" above and beyond the cost of the car, do what I did, I bought a Trans Am (or you can of course look at Z28! It is fast in the 1/4 mile, it has a lot more torque and horsepower than an H22 and it was designed for the motor that's in it. The power to weight ratio isn't that bad. I'm sure you would be able to pick up a coupe for less than $10,000.

To address some concern:
Commuting to work? I drive my Civic. Winter? I drive my Civic. Rain? I drive my Civic, my Trans Am is a convertable. BMWs? I blow them away! Fuel consumption? Do you think a "hybrid" is any better? Insurance? My Trans Am is cheaper to insure than my Civic.

Mark

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

^^^ If he wanted a **** TANK he would have gone to z28.org LOL j/k Mark, your trans am is nice, but tell me something??? How many times has your trans am been in for service, and how many times has your Civic been in for service??

Cheapest way to get yourself into a hot hatch is to buy Cablerat's 5th gen Civic with the swap already done and a ton of new parts... for AROUND $9K!!! Hella deal!

mourad

You guys think the LS1 or LT1 engines are that crappy? From experience, I noticed domestic cars are built cheaply and they're all flimsy 'n shitty all around. When it comes to the engine though, I have to say though, the LS1 engine of the T/A & SS is bulletproof, it takes a beating and responds very well to N2O and other additives.
After all, the block itself is nothing but a thick piece of metal. Whether it be forged here or overseas, it's really the same thing, no?
There's always a trade-off of course, it's all power/weight. Something like an F-body is HEAVY, hence any additional power gained from 4 extra cylinders is wasted... That means tons of gas wasted with no lower ET's.
My Opinion, I s'pose I'll accept the punishment now...

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I am a big believer in GM motors, but you are heavily mistaken if you think a cast here is the same as a cast in Japan... well, cast maybe, but it's the machining and assembly that I worry about.

The GM 5.7L 350 motors are just absolutely classic... nothing can touch them in terms of aftermarket support and longevity. You will never see as many aftermarket heads for a B-series as you do for the 350 (but that's partially cuz the 350 NEEDS new heads in order to breathe). Anyways, I think it's great bang for your buck... but heavy on gas. Not a good daily driver, but it'd make a great second toy... problem is, it's an embarassment in Solo2 and requires a lot of work to make it track worthy in Solo1, and... well, drag racing is just boring.

mourad

Well said

Nova_Dust

Once you start, you ain't gonna turn back. Which is why I try to leave engine work the last.

There are other things that can improve the handling and overall driving experience.

slow_dx

If you're going to be building a b18 w/ ctr pistons, I would recommend that you install a thicker headgasket.

PCT pistons in a b18c w/ b16a head + stock headgasket = 12.9:1

GSR head = > 13:1 + quench pads may touch piston tops at high RPM.

Be careful!

dingus8

ctr pistons in a gsr doesnt' yeild that much compression unless the head was milled......