Best Engine Swap Bang for Buck???
#1
Best Engine Swap Bang for Buck???
Hi All,
I've delayed getting any engine swap, but I think my engine will only last the winter.
In the spring I plan to get an engine swap.
Does anyone know what is the best "bang for the buck" engine to swap to?
I've delayed getting any engine swap, but I think my engine will only last the winter.
In the spring I plan to get an engine swap.
Does anyone know what is the best "bang for the buck" engine to swap to?
#8
bang for the buck?
LS/B18B hands down.
Its not the fastest, its a good solid all around performer
is the most economical B series swap
can be had, complete for $2000 (parts wise)
phenominal on gas - 87 octane
and an awesome highway tranny
very durable - turbo charging option down the road?
LS/B18B hands down.
Its not the fastest, its a good solid all around performer
is the most economical B series swap
can be had, complete for $2000 (parts wise)
phenominal on gas - 87 octane
and an awesome highway tranny
very durable - turbo charging option down the road?
#9
Yes...
I was thinking about about LSVTEC...
Turbocharing down the road is definitely a possibility.
You sound like this is what you have in your car??
Upon doing some forum reading, I've read that naysayers complain that the LSVTEC combo isn't reliable. I've also read that the bore to stroke ratio isn't really favourable for high revs.
What do you make of these comments?
I was thinking about about LSVTEC...
Turbocharing down the road is definitely a possibility.
You sound like this is what you have in your car??
Upon doing some forum reading, I've read that naysayers complain that the LSVTEC combo isn't reliable. I've also read that the bore to stroke ratio isn't really favourable for high revs.
What do you make of these comments?
Originally posted by JookSingKid
bang for the buck?
LS/B18B hands down.
Its not the fastest, its a good solid all around performer
is the most economical B series swap
can be had, complete for $2000 (parts wise)
phenominal on gas - 87 octane
and an awesome highway tranny
very durable - turbo charging option down the road?
bang for the buck?
LS/B18B hands down.
Its not the fastest, its a good solid all around performer
is the most economical B series swap
can be had, complete for $2000 (parts wise)
phenominal on gas - 87 octane
and an awesome highway tranny
very durable - turbo charging option down the road?
#10
Originally posted by TauMax
Yes...
I was thinking about about LSVTEC...
Turbocharing down the road is definitely a possibility.
You sound like this is what you have in your car??
Upon doing some forum reading, I've read that naysayers complain that the LSVTEC combo isn't reliable. I've also read that the bore to stroke ratio isn't really favourable for high revs.
What do you make of these comments?
Yes...
I was thinking about about LSVTEC...
Turbocharing down the road is definitely a possibility.
You sound like this is what you have in your car??
Upon doing some forum reading, I've read that naysayers complain that the LSVTEC combo isn't reliable. I've also read that the bore to stroke ratio isn't really favourable for high revs.
What do you make of these comments?
the say sayers are correct, LS VTEC has many issues around it, some regarding reliability and durability. Its definately not as simple as grabbing a LS block and slapping a VTEC head on it.
Theres a difference between building an LS VTEC that works and building an LS VTEC that works well. The main difference is about a $1000 worth of machining.
Neither of these 2 set ups is what I have in my car, but I have a good friend with this set up.
It sounds like to me that you have alot to think about.
what you need to figure out is what is important to you:
COST - WHAT IS IN YOUR BUDGET?
RELIABLITY/DURABILITY- HOW MUCH DO YOU PLAN TO BEAT IT?
WHAT TYPE OF DRIVING DO YOU DO?
HOW FAST YOU WANT TO GO?
DO YOU WANT TO BE THE BADDEST **** ON THE STREET?
Answer those questions to find some direction
#15
Haha...
Yes, If they were so damn expensive, I'd put one in... Perhaps a few years in the future when more RSXs get junked!!
But in the meantime, it seems like the general consensus is for the B18B.
Yes, If they were so damn expensive, I'd put one in... Perhaps a few years in the future when more RSXs get junked!!
But in the meantime, it seems like the general consensus is for the B18B.
Originally posted by gatherer
K series engines
K series engines
#16
Re: i luv it
Who did your swap?
Just curious.
How much did it cost?
Are you using the stock LS tranny, or otherwise?
Any thoughts about going turbo?
Just curious.
How much did it cost?
Are you using the stock LS tranny, or otherwise?
Any thoughts about going turbo?
Originally posted by johnny23toronto
the B18B is the best thing I've ever done to my civic. Its sooo much fun to drive, and I always get the cheap gas and it still performs amazung
the B18B is the best thing I've ever done to my civic. Its sooo much fun to drive, and I always get the cheap gas and it still performs amazung
#18
swap
I did my swap, with hand tools - only my g/f helped with a block and tackle.
Cost of swap (around) = $2000 total.
Anyone can do it themselves. This is one of the few easy swaps. The most difficult thing I ever did before was change a D15 cap and rotor and rear drum shoes.
My lesson learned: When people say that swaps are complete, that is a crock of sh*t.
Sure, I only paid around $1400 for the motor, ls tranny, mounts, ecu, wiring, axles, etc, but that didn't include my new timing belt, waterpump, cv boots, belts, hoses, cap + rotor, gasket, new fluids, new mount inserts, and more... get the picture eh.
Doing the swap properly? - add another $350 Using OEM parts, add more $$ I didn't even change all of this crap, and I still had a lot of unforseen expenses.
Don't mind breaking down on the 401 at 3 am, then save yourself the above extras.
Or get a shop to install it, and I doubt they will change all of these things.
And don't forget that exhausts are not cheap, chances are you're still running a puny stock system.
And if you have a siezed/stripped existing engine mount bolt, add yourself another day of work!
Missing a bolt, have fun paying $6 per bolt from honda!
Then you gotta get decent tires, better brakes, integra rad (cause bubbles can form in head from keeping stock rad which sits at a lower hose height... etc etc) I still am not "done" all this.
Buy all your stuff in advance, cause people like to charge you extra if they see you're desperate.
Cost of swap (around) = $2000 total.
Anyone can do it themselves. This is one of the few easy swaps. The most difficult thing I ever did before was change a D15 cap and rotor and rear drum shoes.
My lesson learned: When people say that swaps are complete, that is a crock of sh*t.
Sure, I only paid around $1400 for the motor, ls tranny, mounts, ecu, wiring, axles, etc, but that didn't include my new timing belt, waterpump, cv boots, belts, hoses, cap + rotor, gasket, new fluids, new mount inserts, and more... get the picture eh.
Doing the swap properly? - add another $350 Using OEM parts, add more $$ I didn't even change all of this crap, and I still had a lot of unforseen expenses.
Don't mind breaking down on the 401 at 3 am, then save yourself the above extras.
Or get a shop to install it, and I doubt they will change all of these things.
And don't forget that exhausts are not cheap, chances are you're still running a puny stock system.
And if you have a siezed/stripped existing engine mount bolt, add yourself another day of work!
Missing a bolt, have fun paying $6 per bolt from honda!
Then you gotta get decent tires, better brakes, integra rad (cause bubbles can form in head from keeping stock rad which sits at a lower hose height... etc etc) I still am not "done" all this.
Buy all your stuff in advance, cause people like to charge you extra if they see you're desperate.
#20
Re: swap
Originally posted by johnny23toronto
integra rad (cause bubbles can form in head from keeping stock rad which sits at a lower hose height... etc etc) I still am not "done" all this.
integra rad (cause bubbles can form in head from keeping stock rad which sits at a lower hose height... etc etc) I still am not "done" all this.