b16 upgrades??
21-Jan-2004, 02:47 PM
#22
you can buy a set of rims for $2000 
j/k
well, you are SURE you want engine work, NOT lowering... rims, brakes... etc.?? And secondly are you SURE you want to go normally aspirated? If so, yeah... I/H/E is the first step, then V-AFC and some tuning, and a bigger throttle body to feed the beast.
j/k
well, you are SURE you want engine work, NOT lowering... rims, brakes... etc.?? And secondly are you SURE you want to go normally aspirated? If so, yeah... I/H/E is the first step, then V-AFC and some tuning, and a bigger throttle body to feed the beast.
21-Jan-2004, 03:48 PM
#29
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
The reason why 14" steelie will clear SIR caliper and HX won't is because HX spokes curve inwards, where the steelie doesn't.
If you want the HX to fit, you either
1) grind caliper
2) get 3mm or 5mm spacers
Here are the tips from Honda-Tech
Thread 1
Thread 2
Thread 3
You will benifit from HX rims a lot.
If you want the HX to fit, you either
1) grind caliper
2) get 3mm or 5mm spacers
Here are the tips from Honda-Tech
Thread 1
Thread 2
Thread 3
You will benifit from HX rims a lot.
21-Jan-2004, 04:09 PM
#30
we never got an HX Nova... we had a VX in the 5th gen, NOT the HX of the 6th gen. As such, said wheels would be hard to come by. I bought Konig Helium rims - 10.7 lbs each. 
and 15" to clear my brakes w/o using spacers.
and 15" to clear my brakes w/o using spacers.
21-Jan-2004, 04:18 PM
#31
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
Ya B, I see what you are saying. Just another alternative.
HX rims being stock, light and low key if you know what I mean. If he can find a set, excellent. Cause not sure if he is that hardcore to spend 2G on a set of rims.
HX rims being stock, light and low key if you know what I mean. If he can find a set, excellent. Cause not sure if he is that hardcore to spend 2G on a set of rims.
21-Jan-2004, 05:16 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: tdOt area
Posts: 19
duzz it really make that big a diff in rims?
11 pounds per rim huh... how is that compared to stock SiR rims?
they cant weight that much more-----
OR CAN They?? DUN DUN DUNNNNNNnnn.......
11 pounds per rim huh... how is that compared to stock SiR rims?
they cant weight that much more-----
OR CAN They?? DUN DUN DUNNNNNNnnn.......
21-Jan-2004, 05:49 PM
#33
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
HX rim is actually 14 x 5.5" and weight at 11.75lb.
Honda stock 15" usually weight between 17~22lbs.
You can expect to save at least 20 lbs off 4 rims. Lighter rims will make your car accelerate faster, handle better and put less stress on breaks.
Honda stock 15" usually weight between 17~22lbs.
You can expect to save at least 20 lbs off 4 rims. Lighter rims will make your car accelerate faster, handle better and put less stress on breaks.
21-Jan-2004, 06:50 PM
#34
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: H-town YOOOO
Posts: 3,079
im so glad i dont have warranty on my car!
b/c i can do this stuff myself.
if your lucky pick up a set of ITR cams!
they got for like 3-4 bills used!
i would start with aI/H/E like everyone has mentioned!
for me i SIR will be going through this!
I/H/E - already have the AEM 1 pic cold air
DC sports 4-2-1 ceramic coated
2 1/4" exhaust
Aem Pullies, Vtec Controller, ITR cams, ITR intake valve springs
ITR TB, who knows..... im in no hurry right now!
i got so much **** to do then throw it on my car right away!
b/c i can do this stuff myself.
if your lucky pick up a set of ITR cams!
they got for like 3-4 bills used!
i would start with aI/H/E like everyone has mentioned!
for me i SIR will be going through this!
I/H/E - already have the AEM 1 pic cold air
DC sports 4-2-1 ceramic coated
2 1/4" exhaust
Aem Pullies, Vtec Controller, ITR cams, ITR intake valve springs
ITR TB, who knows..... im in no hurry right now!
i got so much **** to do then throw it on my car right away!
21-Jan-2004, 06:58 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: tdOt area
Posts: 19
haha...
nice...
juss curious-------->
If i was interested in getting cams and cam gears, would i need anything else to support them? or is tossing those two items in juss fine?
im actually at www.skunk2.com right now, and im seeing Valves, retainers, valve springs, etc, etc... is it "recommended" (for my engines good being) to upgrade all these at the same time? or is it okay if i upgrade in the future?
nice...
juss curious-------->
If i was interested in getting cams and cam gears, would i need anything else to support them? or is tossing those two items in juss fine?
im actually at www.skunk2.com right now, and im seeing Valves, retainers, valve springs, etc, etc... is it "recommended" (for my engines good being) to upgrade all these at the same time? or is it okay if i upgrade in the future?
22-Jan-2004, 12:44 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 537
$2000, huh.....
first off, if you want your car to be a bit quicker, i hope you know that your car will be off the road for a while, because your going to have to rip that head off and rinse that bitch (P & P) and mill it 30 thou, lighten your flywheel or just buy a lighter aluminum one, cam gears, port match your p30 intake manifold (don't buy an itr unless your looking to rev beyond 8600rpm), buy some itr cams and inner valve springs, 2.5" exhaust str8 thru (2.5" from the header collector to the muffler) and buy a tuning device (hondata, vafc or whatever) and hit the dyno. its all about the proper set up and good tuning. all quick cars have been tuned well.
P & P-$700
lighten oem flywheel-$150
port match intake manifold-$80
cam gears-$200 (used)
itr cams and valvesprings-$450
custom mandrel exhaust and muffler-$400
Hondata-$550 VAFC-$275
tuning-$350
if you go the vafc route, the total is $2600 tuning included. i know its a chunk of paper for just a couple of mods, but, the game is pricey. ****, i forgot about a header. alright, make that $2900 ($200 for a dc 4-2-1 header, and $100 to modify the collector and 1 section of the header to 2.5"). this is exactly why i tell people to either save there money longer, or, buy a lighter car. i'm currently building a turbo kit for my b16 and it will cost no less than $4000 in parts alone. the good thing about the setup that i gave you is that you'll beat some of those relatively stock itr's. if you can drive, then you'll be happy with this set-up.
P & P-$700
lighten oem flywheel-$150
port match intake manifold-$80
cam gears-$200 (used)
itr cams and valvesprings-$450
custom mandrel exhaust and muffler-$400
Hondata-$550 VAFC-$275
tuning-$350
if you go the vafc route, the total is $2600 tuning included. i know its a chunk of paper for just a couple of mods, but, the game is pricey. ****, i forgot about a header. alright, make that $2900 ($200 for a dc 4-2-1 header, and $100 to modify the collector and 1 section of the header to 2.5"). this is exactly why i tell people to either save there money longer, or, buy a lighter car. i'm currently building a turbo kit for my b16 and it will cost no less than $4000 in parts alone. the good thing about the setup that i gave you is that you'll beat some of those relatively stock itr's. if you can drive, then you'll be happy with this set-up.
22-Jan-2004, 12:53 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Originally posted by vtektchi_
haha...
nice...
juss curious-------->
If i was interested in getting cams and cam gears, would i need anything else to support them? or is tossing those two items in juss fine?
im actually at www.skunk2.com right now, and im seeing Valves, retainers, valve springs, etc, etc... is it "recommended" (for my engines good being) to upgrade all these at the same time? or is it okay if i upgrade in the future?
haha...
nice...
juss curious-------->
If i was interested in getting cams and cam gears, would i need anything else to support them? or is tossing those two items in juss fine?
im actually at www.skunk2.com right now, and im seeing Valves, retainers, valve springs, etc, etc... is it "recommended" (for my engines good being) to upgrade all these at the same time? or is it okay if i upgrade in the future?
22-Jan-2004, 12:55 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: on a race track
Posts: 17,846
Re: $2000, huh.....
Originally posted by m power
first off, if you want your car to be a bit quicker, i hope you know that your car will be off the road for a while, because your going to have to rip that head off and rinse that bitch (P & P) and mill it 30 thou, lighten your flywheel or just buy a lighter aluminum one, cam gears, port match your p30 intake manifold (don't buy an itr unless your looking to rev beyond 8600rpm), buy some itr cams and inner valve springs, 2.5" exhaust str8 thru (2.5" from the header collector to the muffler) and buy a tuning device (hondata, vafc or whatever) and hit the dyno. its all about the proper set up and good tuning. all quick cars have been tuned well.
P & P-$700
lighten oem flywheel-$150
port match intake manifold-$80
cam gears-$200 (used)
itr cams and valvesprings-$450
custom mandrel exhaust and muffler-$400
Hondata-$550 VAFC-$275
tuning-$350
if you go the vafc route, the total is $2600 tuning included. i know its a chunk of paper for just a couple of mods, but, the game is pricey. ****, i forgot about a header. alright, make that $2900 ($200 for a dc 4-2-1 header, and $100 to modify the collector and 1 section of the header to 2.5"). this is exactly why i tell people to either save there money longer, or, buy a lighter car. i'm currently building a turbo kit for my b16 and it will cost no less than $4000 in parts alone. the good thing about the setup that i gave you is that you'll beat some of those relatively stock itr's. if you can drive, then you'll be happy with this set-up.
first off, if you want your car to be a bit quicker, i hope you know that your car will be off the road for a while, because your going to have to rip that head off and rinse that bitch (P & P) and mill it 30 thou, lighten your flywheel or just buy a lighter aluminum one, cam gears, port match your p30 intake manifold (don't buy an itr unless your looking to rev beyond 8600rpm), buy some itr cams and inner valve springs, 2.5" exhaust str8 thru (2.5" from the header collector to the muffler) and buy a tuning device (hondata, vafc or whatever) and hit the dyno. its all about the proper set up and good tuning. all quick cars have been tuned well.
P & P-$700
lighten oem flywheel-$150
port match intake manifold-$80
cam gears-$200 (used)
itr cams and valvesprings-$450
custom mandrel exhaust and muffler-$400
Hondata-$550 VAFC-$275
tuning-$350
if you go the vafc route, the total is $2600 tuning included. i know its a chunk of paper for just a couple of mods, but, the game is pricey. ****, i forgot about a header. alright, make that $2900 ($200 for a dc 4-2-1 header, and $100 to modify the collector and 1 section of the header to 2.5"). this is exactly why i tell people to either save there money longer, or, buy a lighter car. i'm currently building a turbo kit for my b16 and it will cost no less than $4000 in parts alone. the good thing about the setup that i gave you is that you'll beat some of those relatively stock itr's. if you can drive, then you'll be happy with this set-up.
and he doesn't have to do all of that at the same time.... could do it bits and pieces....
22-Jan-2004, 02:00 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 537
Re: Re: $2000, huh.....
Originally posted by gatherer
good advice but where'd you the get the prices? (just curious)
and he doesn't have to do all of that at the same time.... could do it bits and pieces....
good advice but where'd you the get the prices? (just curious)
and he doesn't have to do all of that at the same time.... could do it bits and pieces....
bbarbulo
22-Jan-2004, 02:35 PM
#40
Originally posted by gatherer
I don't think you have to do it all ... since the rev limit ain't changing ... but I'd recommend it because your taking it aprt for the cam might as well do the rest while your in there.....
I don't think you have to do it all ... since the rev limit ain't changing ... but I'd recommend it because your taking it aprt for the cam might as well do the rest while your in there.....
higher lift and duration cams need better control of the valves by way stiffer springs. The piston is now getting closer to the open valve due to the higher lift AND the extended/modified duration so you want to ensure no valve float occurs. Also, b/c of the higher lift, the spring may be working closer to the limit of it's range (full compression) so you definitely want new springs meant for that purpose. Lastly Ti retainers take off some of the stress from inertia to help reduce the likelyhood of float cuz they are lighter.Stage 2 cams are recommended with springs and retainers, Stage 3 require them for sure! Don't get too wild with the cams or you'll lose vacuum to run your power brakes.
