anyone got a torque wrench
 

i brought a front strut bar but i don't have a torque wrench to install it, anyone have one where i can come and use?

btw install is simple right? unbolt the bolt that connect the strut together and install the strut and bolt it on again?

yes it is that simple.

I don't have torque wrench, but I use them at work everyday... so when I'm working on my car at home, I know approx. how tight nuts & bolts should be by the feel.

Go buy one they arent that expensive, I cant get over all of these requests for tools. You have no idea how much you will use tools if you owned them. For a measly 40-50 bux you can pick a cheap one up at home depot or can tire or sears. Hell if you are that cheap use it then return it

I have a torque wrench ... actually I have a lot of different tools that fit in the category of "never to leave my sight" (yes I do drive with them in my car :p) come to the meet tonight I'll be there

canadian tire has the beam type torque wrenches for $22 or so, best investment

I heard these ones are more accurate than the clicking kind...true??
:shrugs:

true

but they have the downside, that you have to be able to see the scale to use them properly, so in tight places a clicker style torque wrench would be better, but they require re calibration to keep them up to spec, whereas the beam style does not.

are you kidding me?? beam types are terrible for accuracy. just look through the pile of torque wrenches at CT, you're guaranteed to find some that read +/- 5 lbs right off the bat. no way I'd ever use a beam type.

I have torque wrenches... both inch-lb and ft-lb and both are clicking type.

yep its true, beam are more accurate and stay accurate unlike un-calibrated click types.

When clicker types are calibrated often then they are as accurate as beam type, if you see the needle not lining up at 0 then they will be off, but if you get one that is straight from new they are great.

I used to calibrate torque wrenches for QS9000 approval at a manufacturing facility. Quite frankly, I've never seen a torque wrench that was out of spec. They were all click types, and we had these massive blocks of steel where you insert the 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive, and the calibration blocks had a digital readout of the torque you put in... so you compare that to when it clicked, and you record the data for QS9000 audits. Not one torque wrench was ever out. They DO break from abuse and stuff, but if you are careful, it's fine.

Might not have happend for you but they do go out of whack, and need to be recalibrated on a basis.

i'll come out to the meet tonight, if anyone have a torque wrench can they bring it along

btw one question, the strut bar should be installed when the car is on flat ground or does it not matter?

i'm a believer of the click type as well... i'd rather just set a rating then tighten then click i'm done... rather then lining up the bending rod...

although wouldn't that bending rod also loose its "spring" in time? cause you bend anything enough it looses its elastisity right?

i've had the same torque wrench on and off for over 2 years now... never once been calibrated... and it was in use at my dads work... and it is still within spec, mind you its not a cheapy one from CT or home depot... the retail is probably $250 but not my money :haha:

How do you know when to recalibrate the wrench? If mine is off, where do I go to recalibrate it? I have the CT one where you dial it to spec.

i'm not sure how you'd do it at home :shrugs: my dads work has all those cool things to calibrate a slew of measurement tools... like the thing bbarbulo was talkin about up there

you need this

http://www.hotrod.com/hotrod/techart...mage_large.jpg

as far as the beam style, as long as it lines up at 0 with no load your fine

i wouldnt trust any torque wrench other then snap-on. I paid 400 for mine, been using it for 4 years. Assembled countless motors with it, and went to get it calibrated the other day..... it was 0.001 ft/lbs off.

You get what you pay for.

well any torque wrench can be off, the limit is 4% off the reading, a snap on could be off as well, just depends how it is used, and how long etc.

I keep mine in my room, in it's original box... it's just a Sears one cuz I needed it quick... and I needed BOTH of them on the same day. Eventually I'll upgrade when I gotta build a motor.

i bought a clicking type 3/8" torque wrench a few days ago from canadian tire that handles 25 to 250 inch/lbs. it cost me $89 plus taxes.

the instructions for my neuspeed front upper strut bar says to torque the nuts to only 33 inch/lbs. so here i am tightening the nuts extremely tight waiting for the wrench to "click" but it doesn't.

is there something else that i need to hear to look for to tell me to stop tightening? perhaps the torque wrench is defective?

I've had that happen to me before on my buddy's WRX... I snapped the studs off cuz the torque wrench wouldn't click. seems to me sometimes they just don't wanna give. you have to be careful and have a feel for it. just reset the torque wrench to 0, and set it to 30 inch lbs. try it on another bolt that you know is tight (ie lugnuts), and when it clicks, then go and do your strut tower nuts.

cool. thanks for the tip. will let you know the outcome later.

The thing about snap on tools is when you start breaking tools the guy in the truck doesn't come around as often.

When he does come around and you need to exchange/fix a tool he's usually gets in pissed off mood.

^totally depends on your dealer. Our guy is awsome about warrenty stuff.

If your not satisfied with the service, call snap-on head office.

:dito: but they're a lot quicker to sell a high ticket item like a tool chest. :D Our rep comes around every other week and has had our torque wrenches repaired several times with no problem. Our torque wrenches probably see more abuse than anyone's... get dropped on the floor daily and are often used to remove bolts.

Okay please help a noob out. The clicking wrenches right...Is each click considered 1 pound? Like if a product wants you to tighten it to 15lbs of force, you wait till it clicks 15 times? I have no idea how to use them expect to tighten and un-tighten bolts.

no

you set the dial to the desired force you want the bar to stop at

once you apply force to the bolt, and as soon as it starts to get tight, once the force is over your desired force you dialed in on the torque wrench it clicks to let you know its at that force

huh? i dont have that kind then....

anyone have a picture of one?

hey cool.. other reps are cool? hmmm

My buddy always had problems with warranty work with one of the rep's in London. Plus I always hear the horror stories re: snap-on & warranty repair from most of the other Class A lic. tech's that I work with.

There should be a dial on the low part of the handle.
How do you adjust the torque setting on yours?

I only know of two types which are the bar and the dial/click one.

I think the click type is very accurate, those beam types are relying on too many variables, I have two snap on click type and a Snap on Digital tech wrench, Deadly accurate, I only use it for building motors, when i compare all three they are all the same. Maybe you should know that there is the right way to use one and the wrong way. How you use it dramatically changes how much torque is on the bolt. The readings are the same but the torque applied to the bolt is different. Make sure you know how to use it before so you dont break any bolts or more commonly, undertorque.

the torque wrench i bought at canadian tire was finally returned for a full refund today. turned out the wrench was defective which surprised me because it was made in the usa and not china or taiwan like the ones sold at home depot and rona. i expected better quality control out of stuff made from our neighbors down south. oh well.

anyone know where else i can good a half decent torque wrench from?

the motomaster ones are fine... i have one at home i just use the bling bling one cause i can