250-300whp?
08-Feb-2005, 03:33 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 156
Originally posted by bbarbulo
Considering an Edelbrock turbo kit in Canada retails for $5-6K alone, plus this kid is talking about a GSR swap... ummm yeah, I think he could easily spend $10K. And we haven't even talked clutch, Quaife, axles, or internals at all.
Considering an Edelbrock turbo kit in Canada retails for $5-6K alone, plus this kid is talking about a GSR swap... ummm yeah, I think he could easily spend $10K. And we haven't even talked clutch, Quaife, axles, or internals at all.
Do your own kit or buy from the States, no need to spend a fricking rediculous 5-6G on a Edelbrock kit. Greddy kit's go for 1200 US on average used and are plenty reliable for 220-250 to the wheels (250 is pushing the 15G a little) with the extra you saved upgrading to say the 18G turbo will make up the difference and get to 300 whp.
You really need to state your goals and budget for sure and whether you want to achieve your goal based on efficiency or overkill.
If you are going GSR swap or going to fork out that 5-6G
for a brand new edelbrock kit then yeah 10G no prob.My point is you can do it for a hellavu lot cheaper unless you want brand new.
08-Feb-2005, 03:43 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
Posts: 798
Originally posted by TURBO
Yeah he was thinking of a GSR swap but if he only needs 250-300 whp why go that route? He also mentioned a smaller budget would be better.
Do your own kit or buy from the States, no need to spend a fricking rediculous 5-6G on a Edelbrock kit. Greddy kit's go for 1200 US on average used and are plenty reliable for 220-250 to the wheels (250 is pushing the 15G a little) with the extra you saved upgrading to say the 18G turbo will make up the difference and get to 300 whp.
You really need to state your goals and budget for sure and whether you want to achieve your goal based on efficiency or overkill.
If you are going GSR swap or going to fork out that 5-6G for a brand new edelbrock kit then yeah 10G no prob.
My point is you can do it for a hellavu lot cheaper unless you want brand new.
Yeah he was thinking of a GSR swap but if he only needs 250-300 whp why go that route? He also mentioned a smaller budget would be better.
Do your own kit or buy from the States, no need to spend a fricking rediculous 5-6G on a Edelbrock kit. Greddy kit's go for 1200 US on average used and are plenty reliable for 220-250 to the wheels (250 is pushing the 15G a little) with the extra you saved upgrading to say the 18G turbo will make up the difference and get to 300 whp.
You really need to state your goals and budget for sure and whether you want to achieve your goal based on efficiency or overkill.
If you are going GSR swap or going to fork out that 5-6G
for a brand new edelbrock kit then yeah 10G no prob.My point is you can do it for a hellavu lot cheaper unless you want brand new.
Link Is Here.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...act/index.html
08-Feb-2005, 03:50 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Posts: 3,657
^^^
Still gotta mod your stock oil pan or get a custom one...
I also don't see upgraded injectors and a fuel pump in that picture... there's more parts you'll need as well. Spending 6k on a turbo 'kit' is stupid, when you can custom fab your own for 1/2 the price.
Still gotta mod your stock oil pan or get a custom one...
I also don't see upgraded injectors and a fuel pump in that picture... there's more parts you'll need as well. Spending 6k on a turbo 'kit' is stupid, when you can custom fab your own for 1/2 the price.
08-Feb-2005, 03:51 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 156
Originally posted by rbjeepthing
The Edelbrock kit is worth it because you are getting everything and I mean everything including the tune. You can open the boxes and have it installed in 5 hours yes five hours without running around trying to get all the parts.
Link Is Here.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...act/index.html
The Edelbrock kit is worth it because you are getting everything and I mean everything including the tune. You can open the boxes and have it installed in 5 hours yes five hours without running around trying to get all the parts.
Link Is Here.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...act/index.html
08-Feb-2005, 03:53 PM
#25
doesn't matter... based on his questions I doubt he has the ability to do a home kit. a mook always has to pay more, cuz not only can he NOT custom fab parts... he will also get ripped along the way by ppl who'll see that he's a mook and will rip him off.
08-Feb-2005, 03:54 PM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 156
Originally posted by Torrey
Spending 6k on a turbo 'kit' is stupid, when you can custom fab your own for 1/2 the price.
Spending 6k on a turbo 'kit' is stupid, when you can custom fab your own for 1/2 the price.
Originally posted by bbarbulo
doesn't matter... based on his questions I doubt he has the ability to do a home kit. a mook always has to pay more, cuz not only can he NOT custom fab parts... he will also get ripped along the way by ppl who'll see that he's a mook and will rip him off.
doesn't matter... based on his questions I doubt he has the ability to do a home kit. a mook always has to pay more, cuz not only can he NOT custom fab parts... he will also get ripped along the way by ppl who'll see that he's a mook and will rip him off.
08-Feb-2005, 03:56 PM
#27
not everyone can "fab" guys. seems to be a commonly forgotten detail. it's like saying, paying $3000 for a paint job is stupid when the materials are all under $500. well no **** sherlock, except not eveyone has a paint booth and a large compressor.
08-Feb-2005, 04:27 PM
#28
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,431
fp green is a great pump gas turbo and on a high revving b18c woudl probobly fair well, I've saw a t3/t4 57 trim BB on a b16 spool up real fast. And a greedy kit is garbage 18g pfft 
I'd rather have a turbo that had more top end pull aswell as won't spool at 2000 rpm's so I can get some traction. An fp green is good for 400 hp-450 hp and yes has gone 10's in dsm's but so has a 20g etc so...
I'd rather have a turbo that had more top end pull aswell as won't spool at 2000 rpm's so I can get some traction. An fp green is good for 400 hp-450 hp and yes has gone 10's in dsm's but so has a 20g etc so...
08-Feb-2005, 04:49 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 351
Has anyone here driven a 300whp civic who has posted?? I have driven a 323whp civic hatch before and whoever said that 21 shouldnt own it is kinda right. I have tonnes of driving and racing experience and 323 was pretty hard to handle (real boost of course) The car is all over the road in the power, its a real handful, really fun for sure but the civic wasnt really made for that kind of hp. I have also drivien a 400whp audi S4 and that car is super fast but really controllable at speed. Remember the 300whp civic will probably go close to 280kmh or so and from my experince a civic with full suspension (we are talking street car not race car) will not handle very well at 240km I dont care how much you spend on suspension, and a car like that is gonna cost close to 10gs. It just plane wasnt engeneered to go that fast that quickly. You will run into braking issues and axle issues, forget about keeping tires on it. I dont mean to be negetive, but its the truth, I have spent too long to make things go faster and smoother just to have problems with regular drivablility. Just my thoughts of course
08-Feb-2005, 05:08 PM
#31
i totally agree with scott newman. I've driven a 258whp boosted b16 CRX and it was very hard to drive. Fun but hard. Torque steer was crazy!!! This car is all over the road b/c like you said it wasn't designed to have that much power or to be driven like that. This car had lots of suspension mods and it was still very squirrley.
250whp is very attainable but don't skimp on things like suspension and brakes. Because if somebody pulls out in front of you when your going 200+km/hr you need to be able to stop real quick otherwise your going to waste all of that money you just spent on making your car fast.
250whp is very attainable but don't skimp on things like suspension and brakes. Because if somebody pulls out in front of you when your going 200+km/hr you need to be able to stop real quick otherwise your going to waste all of that money you just spent on making your car fast.
08-Feb-2005, 05:29 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scarborough and Mississauga
Posts: 7,065
no, no one is gonna prove scott wrong. Unless your driving in a straight line only on drag radials on the street your not gonna get any traction 1-3 and even 4th if ur in the 300-400whp. I know the car scott is talking and although I have not been in the car I know that the car has pretty much the best street tire available on the market now.
If your goal is 300whp i would say tune for 300whp but dial it down to like 200whp on the street cause there is no reason you would need 300whp daily.
If your goal is 300whp i would say tune for 300whp but dial it down to like 200whp on the street cause there is no reason you would need 300whp daily.
08-Feb-2005, 05:40 PM
#35
two words for you guys:
Quaife differential
and the other trick is... to use a soft engaging clutch like the Exedy. Yeah, you may do a couple more clutch jobs than you'd like, but you're not gonna bust an axle or rip engine mounts every time you shift. Something organic/ceramic blend that'll behave well and slip when it's supposed to, yet hold down 250 torque.
Quaife differential
and the other trick is... to use a soft engaging clutch like the Exedy. Yeah, you may do a couple more clutch jobs than you'd like, but you're not gonna bust an axle or rip engine mounts every time you shift. Something organic/ceramic blend that'll behave well and slip when it's supposed to, yet hold down 250 torque.
08-Feb-2005, 05:47 PM
#37
let off the gas?? LOL
you know in drag racing, that's why they pay pro drivers big bux... to keep traction on them tires. so yeah... learn to modulate the throttle in order to keep traction. either way, you're gonna eat tires like mad in a boosted car, just so you know. that's why stock cars use elec boost control... well partially that's why... so they can regulate the application of boost and tailor the power curve for the average driver.
you know in drag racing, that's why they pay pro drivers big bux... to keep traction on them tires. so yeah... learn to modulate the throttle in order to keep traction. either way, you're gonna eat tires like mad in a boosted car, just so you know. that's why stock cars use elec boost control... well partially that's why... so they can regulate the application of boost and tailor the power curve for the average driver.
08-Feb-2005, 06:11 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Posts: 156
Originally posted by dingus88
fp green is a great pump gas turbo and on a high revving b18c woudl probobly fair well, I've saw a t3/t4 57 trim BB on a b16 spool up real fast. And a greedy kit is garbage 18g pfft I'd rather have a turbo that had more top end pull aswell as won't spool at 2000 rpm's so I can get some traction. An fp green is good for 400 hp-450 hp and yes has gone 10's in dsm's but so has a 20g etc so...
fp green is a great pump gas turbo and on a high revving b18c woudl probobly fair well, I've saw a t3/t4 57 trim BB on a b16 spool up real fast. And a greedy kit is garbage 18g pfft
I'd rather have a turbo that had more top end pull aswell as won't spool at 2000 rpm's so I can get some traction. An fp green is good for 400 hp-450 hp and yes has gone 10's in dsm's but so has a 20g etc so...
Where is this guy who started the thread anyway??
