zex_civic

Hey folks, and wellcome to my thread. I posted to get a second look at my set-up from someone else's point of view on things. I own a 1991 Honda Civic cx with a B16a engine with chipped ecu, 2.5" stainless exhaust and some other goodies. I have a set-up planned out and here it is, let me know what you think:

T3/T04E BB Turbo
3” Down Pipe
FMIC & 2.5” IC Piping
450cc injectors
255 Welboro Fuel Pump (Inline)
AEM Stand Alone, AEM Fuel Rail and FPR, AEM Lightened Crank Pullies & Accessory Pullies, Skunk 2 Cam Gears, Comp. Boost Cams
ACT 6 Puck Un-sprung Clutch (3 Piece Fedanza 8 lbs Flywheel) Extreme Pressure Plate ARP Flywheel Bolts & Pressure Plate Bolts)
Stage 2 Axels
Block Guard & 3mm Head Spacer, ARP Head Studs
Traction Bar
Port & Polish Cylinder Head
Stiffer Valve Springs
MSD Distributor, Wires & Super Spark Coil
92-95 Aluminum Rad
And Tuning @ the local hot rod shop.

If you have anyother suggestions or knoledgable facts that i should know before i start putting this all together, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know so i dont screw anything up.

Thanks:
Derrick

turbo___zc1

good set up but change the fuel pump to an intank 8lbs flywheel too light 12 lbs no lighter
6 puck unsprung and daily driving

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

to save yourself like $1000, you should just convert to obd-1 and get your car tuned with crome. Nothing against AEM, its just that IMO its a little overkill for anything under 500-600whp, even then crome is capable of handling that quite well.
IMO the fuel rail, pulleys, block guard (not a good idea unless you plan on boring/honing the cylinder walls after install to make sure they didn't get distorted from the block guard) and you might wanna consider larger injectors if you plan on running more than like 10psi. If you plan on running over 11psi you'll also need a different MAP sensor (2.5 bar motorolla or GM 3 bar).
I agree that you should use an intank fuel pump.

Happy boostin'

imported_MiC

^^^

i was just thinking about that aswell...

like zeeman said above, you could save some bucks and spend it for something else. just convert to obd1, and get an obd1 ecu chipped, and tune it with crome or uberdata. lots of people i know are running on crome nowadays. unless you're getting a really good deal on the aem management system then go for it,
otherwise just convert to obd1.

if u plan on running more than 11 psi, you need a new map sensor for sure. stock ones r only good for up to 11 psi and that's pushing it, for they won't be that accurate anymore.

don't forget the blow-off valve, you'll wanna save your turbo and your engine from the excess pressure.

don't cheap out on exhaust, 3" inch mandrel bend, full cat-back exhaust would benefit you really well... no cheap wrinkled bends.

hope that helps...

btw, nice setup!

zex_civic

Hey guys, thatnks for all the tips. i am getting the AEM standalone, lightened crank pullies, fuel rail and 450cc rc injectors for $600. It was purchased by my brother and i know how it was used, and only used for 3 months. I was also told that the block guard keeps the cylanders from flexing at all. Thanks for the tip on the map sencer because i plan on running 15psi. BOV is a HKS Duel Squenchal or what ever its called, I Plan on running a 38mm Tial WG and making my own 316 stainless 3" exhaust. I plan on running a 3 bar FPR. And why not a 8 lbs flywheel???????

Thanks:
Derrick

O, by the way, I also have 24" MT drag slicks so thats y i plan on useing the 6 puck unsprung clutch. I plan on useing the track quite a bit.

dingus888

get a street disc or sprung hub disc with hd pressure plate I ahve a extreme in my dsm and that thing eat's master's slaves for dinner 2600 lbs not to metnion on a unsprung puck disc that is way overkill to the max I have have a street disc and love it woudl never god puck

so hd plate with sprung puck FTW

no block guard

arp head studs and thicker head gasket is pretty much all you need as fair as the block is concerned

imported_Nicotine

yeah..headstuds for sure..

and, depending on how many lbs of boost.... are you gonna run completely stock internals?

if you are doing over 10....i would recommend at least new rods. plus pistons. if you can afford it...they arn't too pricey...but..dont wanna grenade your soon to be nice setup after putting out in good parts. (esp if you're gonna have your engine apart as it seems)

nice to see someone else doing a build. wish you best of luck with your build!!! (i have had a few small setbacks....woot..)

d16z6T

8 lb flywheel is fine. I have a 7lb flywheel in my setup, no probs thus far.

brianmcgaugh

First of all you should let us know your goals so we can say what you need dont need...

But for the 300 area

A BB t3/t04e is gonna be $$$ and you still have a T series stage 3 wheel not really worth it.
Save the $ on the AEM and go obd1 with crome
you dont need the fuel rail or fpr for anything under 500 (IMO...nice to have but not a must at all)
get larger injectors min 680cc's (youll want to go bigger trust me)
stock axels will hold alot of power ive seen guys run 400+whp all season and not break a single axle
dont bother with a block guard, open deck will hold up fine
no pullies
stock dizzy, just get a new cap and rotor, plug wires
stock rad is fine, maybe a slimfan though

This is all my opnion others will probally tell you different though

brianmcgaugh

Id sell all of that and just go obd1 and crome
you dont need the fuel rail, dont want the pullies, and will run out of injector quick with the 450s. The aem is nice but you dont need it at all
also depending on the injectors you might need a resistor box

imported_weiRtech

exactly... don't just throw a bunch of parts together without having a specific target in mind. thing can go wrong quickly if you don't plan it out properly. it sounds to me like you need to do a bit more research or just not make typos... 3 bar FPR??? chipped ecu and aem stand alone? i'd also do as zeeman suggested about the block guard, don't use it unless you plan on overboring your cylinders afterward.

zex_civic

Alright, good to know. So, convert to OBD1 and tune with chrome, 255 welburo *intank* fuel pump, 680cc injectors, head spacer and arp head studs, a sprung 6 puck disk, hd pressure plate and 12lbs flywheel, new map sencer (plan on running 15lbs o boost).

I plan on running at the track quite a bit, but i want a steady street car as well, i would like to get into the 12's(i have slicks), can i get into that et range?i have a 4-1 collector manifold right now, getting a t3/to4b turbo, 2.5" boost piping w/a fmic. Will this handle steady abuse on and off the track?

dingus888

I think yoru stock block mint be pushign it's limits with 15 pounds on a t04b I mean you dont' shoot for a psi goal more like power goal stock block shoudl be good to 300 whp ish

I mean anythign after 300 whp I have heard is the limits of stock rods I mean you mint be able to make abit more....

12's you will need like 250-280 whp which is easy as pie and wont' need huge boost to obtain

imported_Turbo-D

i have an emissions issue and will be getting in touch with zeeman in the next couple of dasy to covert to OBD1 and get rid of my FMU. will getting it tuned bring my emissions within standards to pass??

chris_si98

atleast rods and pistons?

No one in the right mind would just purchase just pistons and rods. If you overhaul the BE, do it right. Measure taper/out of round/over-bore, depending on that get OS pistons/rings or not. Get all new bearings, a fresh hone and a gasket set.

And anything over 10psi youw ould recommend rods/pistons? Why is that? Do you know how much power his setup is going to make at 10psi?

chris_si98

nope!

but it will make your car run ALOT better. It'll be faster, better on fuel economy and much safer for your engine.

A boosted d16 is very hard to make pass emissions. I know one guy who did it but he did a 2 speed idle test (which doubles the limits) and he passed.

brianmcgaugh

Edit

chris_si98

........................

brianmcgaugh

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the original poster has a b16a in his EF, the guy asking about being able to pass emissions (a different person than the original poster) has a turbo d-series.