Tracking a car?
20-Jan-2008, 10:40 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 194
yeah brakes are good to upgrade ...
But for a first timer here's a way to survive brake fade:
if the pedal starts to feel mushy slow down a bit (so that you don't have to hit the brakes as hard) give yourself larger braking distances (again so that you don't have to hit the brakes as hard) and head intot he pits( cool down time)
When you get to the pits DON'T come to a complete stop .. exit the track and drive around the camping areas or infield (depending on which track you are at) slowly... you want to drive slow .. so that you don't need the brakes you also want to drive slow to avoid warpping rotors or over heating the pads... on current cars most front brakes (where most of the braking is done) are Vented disc brakes... when the car is in motion the vents between the inner and outter discs help remove heat (of course they don't do this quick enough when on the track) if you come to a stop these also stop removing heat effectively. so you want to move slowly.
if you come to a stop the rotors will dissapate the heat through the pads and caliper.. and hub and wheel bearings and all that stuff... all parts that don't like heat .. when you heat the calipers and pads (already done from the on the track braking) you will start to raise the temperature of the brake fluid .. if the brake fluid is old you will boil it. if you do that you will have to bleed your brakes to get the air out.
Anyways this is of course much simplified .. but my advise for driving around after coming off the track is whats needed to help avoid boiling the fluid and having no brakes at all. (of course a car can be driven with no brakes it's just very hard to do .. don't ask how I found this out)
But for a first timer here's a way to survive brake fade:
if the pedal starts to feel mushy slow down a bit (so that you don't have to hit the brakes as hard) give yourself larger braking distances (again so that you don't have to hit the brakes as hard) and head intot he pits( cool down time)
When you get to the pits DON'T come to a complete stop .. exit the track and drive around the camping areas or infield (depending on which track you are at) slowly... you want to drive slow .. so that you don't need the brakes you also want to drive slow to avoid warpping rotors or over heating the pads... on current cars most front brakes (where most of the braking is done) are Vented disc brakes... when the car is in motion the vents between the inner and outter discs help remove heat (of course they don't do this quick enough when on the track) if you come to a stop these also stop removing heat effectively. so you want to move slowly.
if you come to a stop the rotors will dissapate the heat through the pads and caliper.. and hub and wheel bearings and all that stuff... all parts that don't like heat .. when you heat the calipers and pads (already done from the on the track braking) you will start to raise the temperature of the brake fluid .. if the brake fluid is old you will boil it. if you do that you will have to bleed your brakes to get the air out.
Anyways this is of course much simplified .. but my advise for driving around after coming off the track is whats needed to help avoid boiling the fluid and having no brakes at all. (of course a car can be driven with no brakes it's just very hard to do .. don't ask how I found this out)
21-Jan-2008, 02:08 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Photographer's Corner
Posts: 13,424
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
imported_kumanan
Interior - Audio - Security
8
15-Mar-2006 12:17 AM
imported_eddy2000k
Interior - Audio - Security
12
28-Aug-2005 12:04 PM
