ZC SOHC NON Vtec Engine
01-Mar-2011, 12:34 PM
#21
I don't know then about gaskets like the hondata one for you IM but that may help a little and for relitively cheap and they're reusable. You may also be able to sneak some steathy HP outta swapping a B series TB in. it'll look stock but have a bigger then stock bore. Do a coolant line bypass when you change the TB and help keep IM temps down even further.
01-Mar-2011, 02:29 PM
#22
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Well, I race circle track racing. And really, I am looking for the most power that i can... These are the engine rules.
Only engines that were factory available for the make, model and year being run are permitted.
Maximum engine size is 2500cc.
No head modifications.
Cam lift will be inspected and must conform to the engine specs for the car.
Maximum overbore of .030”allowed.
Exceptions to the above engine make, model and year rule must be presented in writing to the tech official and tech supervisor for discussion and ruling through the track management.
No double overhead cams allowed
Any help with this is appreciated and yes. I am looking for power... Once again...
Thanks in advance!
Only engines that were factory available for the make, model and year being run are permitted.
Maximum engine size is 2500cc.
No head modifications.
Cam lift will be inspected and must conform to the engine specs for the car.
Maximum overbore of .030”allowed.
Exceptions to the above engine make, model and year rule must be presented in writing to the tech official and tech supervisor for discussion and ruling through the track management.
No double overhead cams allowed
Any help with this is appreciated and yes. I am looking for power... Once again...
Thanks in advance!
Install some poly motor mount inserts (the 3 lower mounts) to direct more power to the wheels instead of rocking the engine.
Are you allowed to port or port-match/gasket match?
Are you allowed to alter the ecu/tuning?
How can they tell what pistons you are running? Do they actually pull your motor apart?
There are a lot of little things you can do that will add up collectively and make a decent noticeable difference. But depending on the rules, you could still be quite limited...
A well designed high quality header complimented by a short-ram intake with velocity stack can net you some gains. But again it depends what the rules allow. I know I'd be doing some pretty sneaky innovative stuff to help get more clean air in and out of that engine...lol.
01-Mar-2011, 03:36 PM
#23
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I am really not sure about changing pistons now. Maybe for now, we will start with small stuff. Like you said MPR, about the collective power with some little things and maybe i will look for a nice header for the motor. The intake manifold i dont think we are allowed to change them, so is there an aftermarket intake manifold that we could get that looks stock? I really dont want to be disqualified! ol Dusty, when you say "TB", do you mean throttle body? Like i said before, i am new to the honda world!
ol Dusty, when you say "TB", do you mean throttle body? Like i said before, i am new to the honda world!
01-Mar-2011, 03:58 PM
#24
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^Yes, TB = throttle body.
I don't know if there is an aftermarket or other type of oem style intake manifold that looks stock that could be used on this motor. Maybe someone more informed about d-series motors could add some comments on that...
If you do use a larger tb with the stock intake manifold, you may have to port the intake inlet diameter to match the diameter of the tb. I was unaware the tb from a b16 would work on a d-series intake...
What are you allowed to do exhaust-wise? You could run a better flowing aftermarket universal oem style cat and run a larger diameter piping from the header back (cat included, no bottle-necks! lol). I'd suggest around 2.25" diameter for that engine. Any larger and you'll actually start to lose significant power in the low to mid range. That should be complemented with a short ram intake with heat shield to keep out hot air from the engine bay and a velocity stack or cone filter with internal velocity stack...
You'll actually lose a little low-end torque but gain a bit in the mid to top end. It's a trade off, basically. You essentially want to shift your peak volumetric effeciency range to the rpm range where you need it most. In oval racing, you'll propably want more mid and top end, to pull out of the corners and keep pulling down the straight.
I don't know if there is an aftermarket or other type of oem style intake manifold that looks stock that could be used on this motor. Maybe someone more informed about d-series motors could add some comments on that...
If you do use a larger tb with the stock intake manifold, you may have to port the intake inlet diameter to match the diameter of the tb. I was unaware the tb from a b16 would work on a d-series intake...
What are you allowed to do exhaust-wise? You could run a better flowing aftermarket universal oem style cat and run a larger diameter piping from the header back (cat included, no bottle-necks! lol). I'd suggest around 2.25" diameter for that engine. Any larger and you'll actually start to lose significant power in the low to mid range. That should be complemented with a short ram intake with heat shield to keep out hot air from the engine bay and a velocity stack or cone filter with internal velocity stack...
You'll actually lose a little low-end torque but gain a bit in the mid to top end. It's a trade off, basically. You essentially want to shift your peak volumetric effeciency range to the rpm range where you need it most. In oval racing, you'll propably want more mid and top end, to pull out of the corners and keep pulling down the straight.
01-Mar-2011, 04:09 PM
#25
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Well, the exhaust that we run now does not have the cat on it. The exhaust manifold back is just a straight pipe anyhow. The only other way that i think we can change is put a nice header on it... And if I put a b16 tb on my d16, will there be any difference in power/performance?
01-Mar-2011, 05:54 PM
#26
D/B/H series TB's all fit on D series manifolds, same bolt pattern also I think a d16y8 IM might fit on your engine, looks stock but they might notice, it is still a Honda IM but with a larger plenum or as some might call it a surge tank (to me a surge tank is a fuel thing but I can see how the term fits) port match the bigger bore TB from a B series as these are roughly 10mm larger diameter then a D which is usually 56mm IIRC. B16 will be smaller then a B18c1 and the largest would be the ITR, I know the H22 is a good size but I forget just how big.
Mark I think the only reason companies sell aftermarket TB's for the D series is because one for a B series will fit on a D. I think just like how they don't come with the senors installed, you'll need to install the stock MAP and TPS sensors from your TB onto the new one. Could be wrong but lets face it the market for D series parts isn't as strong as B series.
I agree with mark about the velocity stack and a heat shield. Definitely look for ways to max flow in. Sounds like with a straight pipe you're prolly good as far as exhaust goes.
One other thing that I'm sure you're aware of, you don't need to be a Honda guy to know that weight reduction can also help a lot. I'm sure you've done the obvious stuff like seats and sound deadening removal. Have you pulled off the front fenders and cleaned all the crap out from up there? I once pulled the front fenders of a friends ED and we found a good 50lbs of dirt just pasted to everything. Gut the car if you haven't already.
Mark I think the only reason companies sell aftermarket TB's for the D series is because one for a B series will fit on a D. I think just like how they don't come with the senors installed, you'll need to install the stock MAP and TPS sensors from your TB onto the new one. Could be wrong but lets face it the market for D series parts isn't as strong as B series.
I agree with mark about the velocity stack and a heat shield. Definitely look for ways to max flow in. Sounds like with a straight pipe you're prolly good as far as exhaust goes.
One other thing that I'm sure you're aware of, you don't need to be a Honda guy to know that weight reduction can also help a lot. I'm sure you've done the obvious stuff like seats and sound deadening removal. Have you pulled off the front fenders and cleaned all the crap out from up there? I once pulled the front fenders of a friends ED and we found a good 50lbs of dirt just pasted to everything. Gut the car if you haven't already.
01-Mar-2011, 06:59 PM
#28
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Dustin, who is this "Mark" you speak of? lol
Nick T. I'm using a velocity stack from Bpi. There are lots of similar types/copies out there, so take your pick. You'll want to match the inner diameter of the stack to the diameter of the piping you use for the intake to the tb.
Heat shield, I made my own from some sheet steel. main thing is to block as much of the hot engine bay air as you can. The colder the air going into the engine the better.
Nick T. I'm using a velocity stack from Bpi. There are lots of similar types/copies out there, so take your pick. You'll want to match the inner diameter of the stack to the diameter of the piping you use for the intake to the tb.
Heat shield, I made my own from some sheet steel. main thing is to block as much of the hot engine bay air as you can. The colder the air going into the engine the better.
01-Mar-2011, 07:24 PM
#29
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MPR. Would you recommend a BPI stack over the others? Are you located in Canada? If so, how much was the bill to get the stack shipped if you got it shipped?
Now i am interested! And i just realized that I have access to a DOHC engine for the tb... I completely forgot bout it!
Now i am interested!
And i just realized that I have access to a DOHC engine for the tb... I completely forgot bout it!
02-Mar-2011, 10:27 AM
#30
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^I bough mine from a local seller for about the same price as buying one from their website. BPi - Performance Velocity Stack
If you go to products you'll see they have just the stacks (no filter) and stack kits (filter included). Go with the 3".
There are other copies and brands out there, all probably yield similar dyno results. the choice is yours.
If you go to products you'll see they have just the stacks (no filter) and stack kits (filter included). Go with the 3".
There are other copies and brands out there, all probably yield similar dyno results. the choice is yours.
02-Mar-2011, 12:06 PM
#31
02-Mar-2011, 05:42 PM
#33
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Thanks guys! This site is awesome! I learned so much on this site all because of the generous community here on TCC! Once again, thank you!! 
If anyone else has any other opinions/suggestions, i will be glad to here them! Cheers!
If anyone else has any other opinions/suggestions, i will be glad to here them! Cheers!
03-Mar-2011, 07:23 AM
#37
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03-Mar-2011, 11:46 AM
#39
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Posts: 57
No. That is one thing that the track will not let us do is change the body/shape/aerodynamics. The only thing that we are allowed to do is "message" the fenders. They want us to run safety wheels but we cannot get the proper offset... Therefore, the wheels stick out. Unless we flare the fenders.. Weird. ehh?
