How do I Get more Power Out of TYPE-R b16b Engine?
14-Jan-2009, 01:34 PM
#1
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Posts: 172
How do I Get more Power Out of TYPE-R b16b Engine?
Hi everyone, I have a 97 Honda Civic Si With a TYPE-R engine in it, I was wondering, what can I do to my engine to get more power out of it without putting in a turbo. I was thinking Toda cam gears and cam shafts, What else can be do to the engine and such to get more power?
Please and Thank you.
Please and Thank you.
14-Jan-2009, 07:47 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 172
Nice, Thanks for Quick replies ^^.
So far If I get Toda camgears and Cam shaft Spec B, I'm also going to change the timing belt, the Throttle Body, The Valve Springs. I'm Still not too sure about porting since I don't know too much about it.
So far If I get Toda camgears and Cam shaft Spec B, I'm also going to change the timing belt, the Throttle Body, The Valve Springs. I'm Still not too sure about porting since I don't know too much about it.
14-Jan-2009, 09:15 PM
#6
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i've heard about this shop in etobicoke. just of kipling south of dundas. its called Etobicoke Engines they do P&P for 8valve civics for 200$ and 16valve for 400$ not sure if the prices are still the same. give them a call i found their number. (416) 236 2566
15-Jan-2009, 11:03 AM
#9
porting a type-R head is a complete waste of money, type-R's already have a factory port job.
I'd save the money on the valves, type-Rs use upgraded ones to begin with. If you use anything larger than stage 1 cams you will NEED upgraded valve springs and retainers. I'd try to match the valvetrain to the cams, but if not, supertech and crower make good valvetrain that won't break the bank. Just don't pick something with a super high seat pressure/spring rate if you're only using like a stage2 cam, this will save unnecessary wear on your rocker arms/valvetrain.
The type R has a nice intake manifold already and a lot of the aftermarket intake manifolds are designed off the Type-R manifold. I'd also be careful with how large of a throttle body you use, too big and you'll actually loose torque, which is something 1.6L's can't afford to loose. The R already has a 62mm, which is up from the b16a's 60mm.
A good header is a MUST if you wanna make good power. Same with a free flowing exhaust, 2.5" works well and won't be super loud if you use a cat, resonator and a good muffler. Keeping a cat will hold you back a few WHP but keep you street legal.
And of course tuning. When switching to different camshafts tuning is a must b/c if you change how much air is entering/exiting the engine and when, you'll need to change how much fuel is entering and when the spark is firing (ignition timing). I'd recommend dyno tuning, to get the most power possible.
I'd save the money on the valves, type-Rs use upgraded ones to begin with. If you use anything larger than stage 1 cams you will NEED upgraded valve springs and retainers. I'd try to match the valvetrain to the cams, but if not, supertech and crower make good valvetrain that won't break the bank. Just don't pick something with a super high seat pressure/spring rate if you're only using like a stage2 cam, this will save unnecessary wear on your rocker arms/valvetrain.
The type R has a nice intake manifold already and a lot of the aftermarket intake manifolds are designed off the Type-R manifold. I'd also be careful with how large of a throttle body you use, too big and you'll actually loose torque, which is something 1.6L's can't afford to loose. The R already has a 62mm, which is up from the b16a's 60mm.
A good header is a MUST if you wanna make good power. Same with a free flowing exhaust, 2.5" works well and won't be super loud if you use a cat, resonator and a good muffler. Keeping a cat will hold you back a few WHP but keep you street legal.
And of course tuning. When switching to different camshafts tuning is a must b/c if you change how much air is entering/exiting the engine and when, you'll need to change how much fuel is entering and when the spark is firing (ignition timing). I'd recommend dyno tuning, to get the most power possible.
05-Mar-2009, 07:50 AM
#13
well the b18b and b18c blocks are different, so it can't handle it. If you were to use a LS crank in a b18c block you'd also have to use the LS rods and remove or bend up the oil squirters so the crank doesn't hit them. Now worth the extra 1.8mm more stroke of the LS crank IMO. The longer stroke of the LS crank would then equate to less high RPM stability, which lets face it, the b-series engines are all about and make all their power.
05-Mar-2009, 01:52 PM
#15
Like Zeeman said, you'll need a vavle train upgrade when going with any stage 2 cam. This pervents valve float. Personally, I'm a skunk2 pro fan, but it's A) Hard to find locally, B) expensive, C) not developing too much these days for B series.
A Bigger throttle body is bad, if it's not needed.
As for a good exhaust, I highly suggest anything BUT canister. My car is 2.5 exhaust, cat, resisnated, Skunk2 Caniter w/ Silencer, and I still get harsed from the police. Check out Vibrant, or a twin loop system (expensive).
Another Huge gain, would be using a Fidanza flywheel (7.5lbs) or something a lot lighter than you have now. Taking weight of the rotating mass doesn't 'give' you horses, but it will allow you motor to rev a lot faster, because it's not trying to spin as much of a load.
I would say use a CTR pulley, but I'm sure you already have one lol. You might want to get the assembly balanced after you change a fly wheel, read about harmoic(sp?) balancing. Not a HUGE deal with the flywheel, as much as a Pulley, but with that expensive engine, safer is better
Little thigns to look for:
Fuel pressure regulator, Air intake, Intake itself, Fuel rails, Headers, Injectors..
Keeping in mind, 'Lean is Mean'. You don't want ot be 'dumping' fuel into the engine, research your desired setup, then research, research, research...
-Brian
A Bigger throttle body is bad, if it's not needed.
As for a good exhaust, I highly suggest anything BUT canister. My car is 2.5 exhaust, cat, resisnated, Skunk2 Caniter w/ Silencer, and I still get harsed from the police. Check out Vibrant, or a twin loop system (expensive).
Another Huge gain, would be using a Fidanza flywheel (7.5lbs) or something a lot lighter than you have now. Taking weight of the rotating mass doesn't 'give' you horses, but it will allow you motor to rev a lot faster, because it's not trying to spin as much of a load.
I would say use a CTR pulley, but I'm sure you already have one lol. You might want to get the assembly balanced after you change a fly wheel, read about harmoic(sp?) balancing. Not a HUGE deal with the flywheel, as much as a Pulley, but with that expensive engine, safer is better
Little thigns to look for:
Fuel pressure regulator, Air intake, Intake itself, Fuel rails, Headers, Injectors..
Keeping in mind, 'Lean is Mean'. You don't want ot be 'dumping' fuel into the engine, research your desired setup, then research, research, research...
-Brian
05-Mar-2009, 02:20 PM
#16
spending money on a fuel pressure regulator, injectors and a fuel rail is a complete waste of money. The stock fuel pressure regulator is more than sufficient, the stock injectors are good for up to around 200whp and the stock fuel rail is good for like 500whp. You will NOT see ANY gain in power from replacing these items. Actually if you replace the fuel injectors with larger injectors and don't set the ECU up for the larger injectors, you'll be pissin fuel into the cylinders and will lose a ton of power.
I've actually seen a couple cars loose torque from a lighter flywheel, but yes the engine will rev up faster, but at the same time, the RPMs will fall faster when shifting or decelerating.
I personally am not a huge skunk2 PRO fan, those cams are too big for 90% of the setups they are in, IMO skunk2 has better advertising than products. The skunk2 tuner 2's are good cams IMO.
I've actually seen a couple cars loose torque from a lighter flywheel, but yes the engine will rev up faster, but at the same time, the RPMs will fall faster when shifting or decelerating.
I personally am not a huge skunk2 PRO fan, those cams are too big for 90% of the setups they are in, IMO skunk2 has better advertising than products. The skunk2 tuner 2's are good cams IMO.
05-Mar-2009, 02:42 PM
#17
spending money on a fuel pressure regulator, injectors and a fuel rail is a complete waste of money. The stock fuel pressure regulator is more than sufficient, the stock injectors are good for up to around 200whp and the stock fuel rail is good for like 500whp. You will NOT see ANY gain in power from replacing these items. Actually if you replace the fuel injectors with larger injectors and don't set the ECU up for the larger injectors, you'll be pissin fuel into the cylinders and will lose a ton of power.
I've actually seen a couple cars loose torque from a lighter flywheel, but yes the engine will rev up faster, but at the same time, the RPMs will fall faster when shifting or decelerating.
I personally am not a huge skunk2 PRO fan, those cams are too big for 90% of the setups they are in, IMO skunk2 has better advertising than products. The skunk2 tuner 2's are good cams IMO.
I've actually seen a couple cars loose torque from a lighter flywheel, but yes the engine will rev up faster, but at the same time, the RPMs will fall faster when shifting or decelerating.
I personally am not a huge skunk2 PRO fan, those cams are too big for 90% of the setups they are in, IMO skunk2 has better advertising than products. The skunk2 tuner 2's are good cams IMO.
Not to thread Jack, but, some products say by using their fuel rails, it will cool the fuel more. And 100% on the FPR and Injectors. And again, I hear ya on the advertising b/s too.
Every tried an oil catch can? I can't say anything myself, but some people swear by them.
09-Apr-2009, 02:42 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 537
Z has it fully covered, but, i also thought the 16b uses a 62mm tb. until i got my hands on one and found out that they come equipped with 60mm joints. check this out b16b owners........... Tuner Performance Reports - TPRMag.com - Featured Article - '94 Honda Del Sol (B16B CTR) - Buddy Club: PN# Spec IV Valvetrain
that combo accompanied by an HK tune, 4.9 f.d., and ur good
that combo accompanied by an HK tune, 4.9 f.d., and ur good
Last edited by Mugen Power; 09-Apr-2009 at 02:47 AM.
