h22a1 all apart, what should i do?
22-Feb-2010, 09:50 PM
#1
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h22a1 all apart, what should i do?
Today i bought a 95 civic coupe thats ready for a h22 swap (engines/tranny is gone) and it came with a h22a1 thats all apart (head is still intact). Ill take pics of it tomorrow. He said that it was running fine but he took it apart because he was going to build it. Now that its apart, is there something that i should replace that i would absolutely regret not replacing before putting it back together? Ill take pics and post them tomorrow.
23-Feb-2010, 03:54 AM
#3
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To be honest, the first thing I'd do if I had some $ would be sleeving the block and getting rid of those stock sh!tty sleeves. FRM sleeves (stock) cause a lot of oil burning problems. I got to experience it first hand. Every 1000km adding a L of oil not hitting vtec, EVER, driving calm and slow, shifts always at 3k or lower. Took the car to sudbury which is 400km(?) or so, and driving with some spirit it went from full to almost low.
So I would highly suggest replacing those if you plan on keeping this motor. And no, its not an issue with piston rings. Number of times I've seen people replace ring, pay up a LOT, just to find out the oil problem has not been solved.
Otherwise replacing water pump and timing belt, all new gaskets like head gasket/intake manifold gasket/exhaust manifold gasket/oil pan gasket/oil pan gasket/valve cover gasket/valve stem seals/cam seal. OH almost forgot, get new head studs since you are not supposed to re-use them due to stretching.
So I would highly suggest replacing those if you plan on keeping this motor. And no, its not an issue with piston rings. Number of times I've seen people replace ring, pay up a LOT, just to find out the oil problem has not been solved.
Otherwise replacing water pump and timing belt, all new gaskets like head gasket/intake manifold gasket/exhaust manifold gasket/oil pan gasket/oil pan gasket/valve cover gasket/valve stem seals/cam seal. OH almost forgot, get new head studs since you are not supposed to re-use them due to stretching.
23-Feb-2010, 08:31 AM
#4
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I live in sudbury :P lol. This is totally a budget build at the moment, so im trying to save as much as possible putting it together, then later on i plan on tearing it apart and building it for boost. I already plan on getting all new gaskets, i cant believe some people reuse them. The waterpump is likly still good (its only got 160k), so ill leave that for now. Whats the change interval on the timing belt for this engine? ill check it out for cracks and stuff while im at it. The head wasnt pulled apart, are the head studs inside the head, or are they what holds the head onto the block?
23-Feb-2010, 09:25 AM
#5
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i really wish there was a edit button...
whats the recomended place for getting these gasets? Locally my best bet would be part source as i used to work there, but perhaps i can get them cheaper online?
how about this kit from ebay ? :
93-96 2.2 L Honda Prelude Si Vtec H22A1 Full Gasket Set on eBay.ca (item 360163130223 end time 12-Mar-10 19:03:20 EST)
whats the recomended place for getting these gasets? Locally my best bet would be part source as i used to work there, but perhaps i can get them cheaper online?
how about this kit from ebay ? :
93-96 2.2 L Honda Prelude Si Vtec H22A1 Full Gasket Set on eBay.ca (item 360163130223 end time 12-Mar-10 19:03:20 EST)
23-Feb-2010, 04:14 PM
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Timing belt/water pump should be done every 100k km. Also, the reason why you should do it is because once the h22 goes into EG, changing timing belt/water pump is gonna be impossible.
For parts I would only buy from Honda for gaskets. OEM>aftermarket.
For parts I would only buy from Honda for gaskets. OEM>aftermarket.
23-Feb-2010, 05:07 PM
#7
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I live in sudbury :P lol. This is totally a budget build at the moment, so im trying to save as much as possible putting it together, then later on i plan on tearing it apart and building it for boost. I already plan on getting all new gaskets, i cant believe some people reuse them. The waterpump is likly still good (its only got 160k), so ill leave that for now. Whats the change interval on the timing belt for this engine? ill check it out for cracks and stuff while im at it. The head wasnt pulled apart, are the head studs inside the head, or are they what holds the head onto the block?
source another engine to drive on for awhile... accumalate some money buy all the parts you need for the turbo build. once you are finished you can swap out the motors with minimum downtime and sell the one you have been driving on.... or even keep it for a back up motor...
23-Feb-2010, 10:55 PM
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ouch the body looks kinda rough.. my thoughts on what you should do about the exterior of the car:
drop it, get a stock rear bumper, get oem/jdm headlights and tail lights, and mount either a stock si spoiler (92-95) or a si spoiler from the 99-00 style to fill those holes in your trunk.
as for the motor, if you can wait longer to drive it, i say build it for boost now while its apart, just my two cents though
drop it, get a stock rear bumper, get oem/jdm headlights and tail lights, and mount either a stock si spoiler (92-95) or a si spoiler from the 99-00 style to fill those holes in your trunk.
as for the motor, if you can wait longer to drive it, i say build it for boost now while its apart, just my two cents though
23-Feb-2010, 10:59 PM
#10
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Actually, the body itself is in GREAT shape. The taillights are super gay and are for sale, as well as the gay rear bumper. In the ads i also put willing to trade for stock. Im supposed to get a wing for it eventually (he said i could either have the stock SI wing or a integra wing for it). Also there is lowering springs on the car. The reason the front is so high is because there is no engine or tranny in it. The reason the rear is so low is because the shocks arent hooked up because the bushings were NFG. I have new bushing for them and may install them tomorrow.
23-Feb-2010, 11:01 PM
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Actually, the body itself is in GREAT shape. The taillights are super gay and are for sale, as well as the gay rear bumper. In the ads i also put willing to trade for stock. Im supposed to get a wing for it eventually (he said i could either have the stock SI wing or a integra wing for it). Also there is lowering springs on the car. The reason the front is so high is because there is no engine or tranny in it. The reason the rear is so low is because the shocks arent hooked up because the bushings were NFG. I have new bushing for them and may install them tomorrow.
23-Feb-2010, 11:02 PM
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17's with brand new Kuhmo's on em. There are a couple dents (front drivers side fender has a small dent, and a small dent in the rear passenger side fender). and like i said, the gay rear fiberglass bumper is split in 2.
23-Feb-2010, 11:05 PM
#13
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yeah you can probably just pop those dents out a bit if you really care. personally i think anything bigger than 16's shouldnt be on a civic because they cause a rougher ride, and are more likely to rub. if you dont like those rims you should try and trade for some si rims, hx rims, or blades.
23-Feb-2010, 11:07 PM
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I'll prob stick with these because they have brand new tires of them. If i find the ride is too bad ill prob go with a OEM rim though like you said. I got the whole package for 750...so i cant really complain. Also came with a lot of extra's.
23-Feb-2010, 11:11 PM
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gotta love black coupes tho... FTMFW
23-Feb-2010, 11:15 PM
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to be honest i wanted a hatch, but im happy with my coupe, lol. Coupes defiantly look a LOT better and are a lot more practical, but a hatch would have saved me 400 lbs. Im surprised you were able to talk him down that much. I basically just got really lucky, the guy needed a motor for his land rover and i almost paid for that, lol. But with my deal i also got 3 ecus (the p13 for the H, also the p28 that was for the d16, and he gave me a p75 for a 92-95 teg), outter stock tails (he had tails for a hatch, inners dont fit, damn), a cheap alarm/remote locks system still in the box, strut brace, red honda emblems, and im sure im missing a bunch of stuff...lol.
23-Feb-2010, 11:19 PM
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to be honest i wanted a hatch, but im happy with my coupe, lol. Coupes defiantly look a LOT better and are a lot more practical, but a hatch would have saved me 400 lbs. Im surprised you were able to talk him down that much. I basically just got really lucky, the guy needed a motor for his land rover and i almost paid for that, lol. But with my deal i also got 3 ecus (the p13 for the H, also the p28 that was for the d16, and he gave me a p75 for a 92-95 teg), outter stock tails (he had tails for a hatch, inners dont fit, damn), a cheap alarm/remote locks system still in the box, strut brace, red honda emblems, and im sure im missing a bunch of stuff...lol.
23-Feb-2010, 11:21 PM
#18
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Haha, that stuff works great when your buying a car from a old man, a woman, or a kid who doesnt know what a cold air intake is, but when your buying it from someone who used to own a performance shop, its a bit harder to talk him down...but apparently you get lots of extra, lol.
23-Feb-2010, 11:23 PM
#19
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Haha, that stuff works great when your buying a car from a old man, a woman, or a kid who doesnt know what a cold air intake is, but when your buying it from someone who used to own a performance shop, its a bit harder to talk him down...but apparently you get lots of extra, lol.
