Engine Problem - Spark Plug Condition?
#21
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...way/index.html
how to check CEL code.
80 kms less per tank isn't a lot, but it def confirms a problem. thing to figure out now is why open loop mileage is worse AND closed loop driving produces hesitation. check the CEL code so i don't have to guess at the problem at random. also, check your PM i sent you some info
how to check CEL code.
80 kms less per tank isn't a lot, but it def confirms a problem. thing to figure out now is why open loop mileage is worse AND closed loop driving produces hesitation. check the CEL code so i don't have to guess at the problem at random. also, check your PM i sent you some info
#22
oh just a quick questions...once I get the dizzy cap off how do I get that inner plastic cover off? is it a snap fit with clips or screws or what cause I was trying before and I couldn't get it, I just didn't want to break it! haha
Thanks,
Jamie
Thanks,
Jamie
#23
Hey,
This could be kind of tricky getting the CEL code because I will be driving and it will come on then I will turn the engine off and back on and the CEL will be out....not sure what that means...I guess a bad connection somewhere but it makes it extremely difficult/impossible to get the CEL code because it does not stay on through multiple engine starts. I think I will have to start with the diagnostic on the dizzy igniter and ignition coil...unless I can get that tricky CEL to stay on! haha Also, thanks for the PM'ed info thats a great help!
Thanks,
Jamie
This could be kind of tricky getting the CEL code because I will be driving and it will come on then I will turn the engine off and back on and the CEL will be out....not sure what that means...I guess a bad connection somewhere but it makes it extremely difficult/impossible to get the CEL code because it does not stay on through multiple engine starts. I think I will have to start with the diagnostic on the dizzy igniter and ignition coil...unless I can get that tricky CEL to stay on! haha Also, thanks for the PM'ed info thats a great help!
Thanks,
Jamie
#24
To remove the plastic cover, just remove the rotor. Theres a philips screw that you will see near the opening facing the firewall. You may have to rotate the engine over to get the screw to appear.
Your CEL will be stored. Doesnt matter if it comes on then goes off or not.
Your CEL will be stored. Doesnt matter if it comes on then goes off or not.
#25
Hey,
So I can still put a wire to the two terminals in the plug under the dash and the CEL will still blink so I can count it? Or will it only be stored in a way that only a hand held diagnostic unit can retreive it?
Thanks,
Jamie
So I can still put a wire to the two terminals in the plug under the dash and the CEL will still blink so I can count it? Or will it only be stored in a way that only a hand held diagnostic unit can retreive it?
Thanks,
Jamie
#29
Hey,
The CEL is currently off on my dash but it was oon a couple of days ago. Anyways I did the paperclip trick and the CEL blinked two long blinks and one short....I think that means vtec solenoid valve....would that have anything to do with my hesitation issue? Where is and what does the vtec solenoid valve do?....I haven't noticed the hesitation when the vtec is not working (when the CEL is on) but I wasnt sure if it was something else or not....not too sure what to do from here...should I go after the vtec solenoid valve or continue with the igniter system testing?
Thanks,
Jamie
The CEL is currently off on my dash but it was oon a couple of days ago. Anyways I did the paperclip trick and the CEL blinked two long blinks and one short....I think that means vtec solenoid valve....would that have anything to do with my hesitation issue? Where is and what does the vtec solenoid valve do?....I haven't noticed the hesitation when the vtec is not working (when the CEL is on) but I wasnt sure if it was something else or not....not too sure what to do from here...should I go after the vtec solenoid valve or continue with the igniter system testing?
Thanks,
Jamie
#30
Hey,
So I've been doing a bit of research on vtec solenoid valves and it shouldn't have anything to do with how the engine runs, rather just whether or not vtec is enabled....any thoughts/suggestions??
Thanks,
Jamie
So I've been doing a bit of research on vtec solenoid valves and it shouldn't have anything to do with how the engine runs, rather just whether or not vtec is enabled....any thoughts/suggestions??
Thanks,
Jamie
#31
yes it's true, vtec solenoid valve has nothing to do with how it runs. however, it's indicated as a problem by the ECU so it's time to troubleshoot it. test operation according to the Helms bible, if the solenoid is ok then it's either then wiring or the ECU.
#33
Hey,
Ok So Ive checked the vtec solenoid valve....taken it apart and cleaned it and now the CEL light doesn't come on anymore...But the car is still hesitating and when it's idling I can feel it studdering every once and a while...Also, sometimes the car searches for idle, like it bounces between 900 and 1500 rpm, and it only happens when the car isn't completely warmed up. What could cause this?....I'm wondering if that would have anything to do with my hesitation issue? Anyways I think I should start the tests on the igniter and dizzy...what do you think?
Thanks,
Jamie
Ok So Ive checked the vtec solenoid valve....taken it apart and cleaned it and now the CEL light doesn't come on anymore...But the car is still hesitating and when it's idling I can feel it studdering every once and a while...Also, sometimes the car searches for idle, like it bounces between 900 and 1500 rpm, and it only happens when the car isn't completely warmed up. What could cause this?....I'm wondering if that would have anything to do with my hesitation issue? Anyways I think I should start the tests on the igniter and dizzy...what do you think?
Thanks,
Jamie