zeeman

iTrader: (1)

From my understanding Skunk2 stage2 is basically just ITR non vtec lobes with a juiced up vtec lobe...pretty much any dohc vtec engine can run ITR cams pretty good.....and i was more referrring to a 1.8L anyways.
But would i put skunk2 stage 2s in a stock b16 and expect miracles....no, b16a don't like huge cams (generally) unless they have lots of work done (go big), so my statement of stage 2/3/4 cams not being worth it unless you go big makes sense. But there are exceptions to that statement. Like BC3+'s, they're a pretty good cam to toss into a relatively stock ITR (but keep in mind and ITR already has at least 11:1 CR, a good intake manifold and throttle body, good header and flows decent)


Well the bigger the stage the bigger the cam (generally).
Every brand of cam is different though.
A stage 2 cam from skunk2 can be quite different from a stage 2 cam from crower.
It just means that crowers stage 1 cam would be smaller than their stage 2 cam, and their stage 3 cams would be bigger than their stage 2 cam.
But to compare a stage 2 cam from skunk2 to say crane's stage 2, you could notice that the lift/duration of the two are quite different.

4doorcivic

i got a b20b i realy want to put cams in it I WAS TOLD that LS cams are good for this motor cheap and will make some more power is this truee or eny one recamend a mild shaft like a stage 1 or something because i dont plan on keeping this motor long

Nova_Dust

Based on the spec, B20B cams perform slighly better than B18B (LS) cams.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't put LS cams in b20, if ur not keeping it long, why spend money on it?

VTEC_Thunder

Thanks for the info zeeman.

But you didn't answer my other question "which cams would your recommend for getting 180whp from a b16?" (anyone can chime in here....looking for some opinions...)

LEITNER

ctr cams dude...you cant go wrong....and bump your compression to 11.5:1

VTEC_Thunder

Thanks for the reply..

I forgot to mention, I won't be changing the pistons or anything in the stock bottom end. Just head work and tuning.

Is there a special thinner gasket you can buy that will slightly increase your compression? I know you can get thicker gaskets to decrease the compression, but wasn't sure if there were any that are thinner than stock thickness...

LEITNER

cut the head .033" and you should be around 11.2:1. advancing the cam gears 1-2 degrees should bring you back to stock cam timing...but dyno tuning is important to get it right...

4doorcivic

what cams would be best for the b20b in a ef civic ... im gona drive it this summer soo i need some *****

dingus888

crower 403's with a nice header

180 whp on ctr cams in a b16 I dont' think that is possible maybe 150-160 whp with a sweet header and good tune maybe 160-170 with sweet header IM TB tuned very well

180 whp in a b16 will be hard....umm ls crank and rods with S2s2's or similar cam would be easier with b16 stamped on the block

LEITNER

clearly dude you dont know anything if your recommending the ls set up in the b16...just stupid on every level. and it was type r cams not ctr cams and i couldnt care less how hard you think it is thats the figures he got.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

180whp in a b16 will be hard?!?!?!?
So i guess omniman is some sort of magician to hit 200WHP on a b16 eh.

Steve:
I think he was talking about using the 403s in the b20b that 4doorcivic was talking about.

I wouldn't use the LS crank in a b16, the pistons you have to use are crap apparently, i believe its b/c the piston pin has to be akwardly placed causing the oil control rings not to seal properly or something like that. But i've heard/seen nothing but bad things about the pistons you need to use when using the LS crank in a b16.
If you want to use a LS crank, use a LS block, their dirt cheap and very plentiful. I'd take b16 pistons in a LS block over a LS crank/rods in a b16 anyday.

Mugen Power

to a certain extent, yes he is........ his 200whp build actually hit 195whp ish on one dyno and then 201whp or so on another. his set up was not fancy, but precise. Omni knows what works. i personally love B16's, and there have been many people that claim to make in the neighbourhood of 200whp at 1595, but, in actuality, those said b16's ended up making 160-180whp. there are only a handful of 200whp 1595 B16's on the planet. the problem is, most people think its easy to hit 200whp. trust me, even at 1820 cc's and 87.2, 200whp (on a dynojet) with a less than stellar header its difficult. now imagine how hard that is from 1.6L. the only real aid in making xxxwhp out of a 16 is RPM (hello r/s ratio). what its configuration, the 16 can make up the difference (whp) through rpm. and even then, its still not going to make any tq...........200whp (with no tricks i.e. aiming air filters above the floor of the plenum, removing air filter, open header, no cat etc) is harder to achieve than people think.

i mean, isn't it funny that Omni is the only one (pretty much) that proves he can make near 200whp out of 1595? i've yet to see anybody on a dynojet make 190whp+ out of the 16. every dyno i've seen close to that number, are on dynopacks. i remember Omni made 192whp on Roger Foo's EG, with a bone stock jdm b16 shortblock, S2S1 cams, SMS header, worked and milled head and Comptech ice box. absolutely sick

dingus888

^^^thankyou 200 whp in a b16 would be very hard I have yet to see it done other thans omni's which woudl have a best flowing head ever with the best cam port header combo. 180 whp in a b16 is very hard on a stock head and bottom end I dont' understand how you think ctr cams with a stock block head and **** header im etc cam make 180 whp. I have yet to see that. But I have seen 160 ish whp on that combo multiple times even 170 ish with all the other goodies

stock b16's with crap ihe dyno what 140-145ish it it's nice and healthy who do you gain 40 WHP from ctr cams......????? let alone a way bigger cams and sweet header I mean 40 whp is alot to gain

Like stated 200 whp is even hard on 1.8l to do

not to mention wasn't omni's a dyno queen..??

and yes I meant 403's on the b20 relax

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

if you read LEITNER's post you'll see that that b16 that made 180whp had headwork, balanced bottom end, better intake manifold and throttle body, and CTR/ITR cams....so it wasn't a stock block b16.
Headwork is an absolute must to make serious power, same with higher compression, but compression alone won't make an engine super potent. Its part of the equation, but so is combustion chamber shape/size, port shape, how many CFM the head can flow at any given valve lift, the cams you are using, supporting mods, etc etc.
I'm not disagreeing that hitting 180whp will be tough, but not impossible....you better have a budget of $4000+ to get there.

VTEC_Thunder

Yeah, I dyno'd 140whp with my stock b16 last summer with only a basic SRI.

$4000 for 180whp b16? That include tuning? I think it can be done for less than that.

What all do you need? lets make a hypothetical list of everything necessary and you guys add in the prices (cause I don't know...lol):

-S2s2 cams
-valve springs/retainers
-.030" shaved off the head + port & polishing
-adjustable cam gears (optional???)
-TB or TB and intake manifold
-header (a good one)
-ecu mods (for tuning)
-tuning



....if there is anything I forgot, just throw it on the list.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

ya and add up the cost of all of that stuff.
Dude, trust me, i've got over $4000 into my setup.
Cams - $500
Valvetrain - $400
Headwork - easy $1000
Cam gears - $200
Throttle body - $200 (at least, way more if you go aftermarket)
Intake manifold - $300
Header (good one) - $800+
Ecu mods - $100
Tuning $300-1000

And thats quoting on the low side of things, plus a new headgasket and ARP head studs (which i highly recommend), might as well change the valve seals too while the head is apart.

Nova_Dust

For non VTEC application, Crower 405 will dump lots of fuel due to cam overlapping, so what about 403 or 404? Daily driving approx 30km, weekend off duty with some track use. I really don't care about mileage, that is part of the game.

Tmack

Hey I just pt a Delta 272 in my B7 sohc. It has the usual I/H/E, .40 milled off the head,Y7 ajustable cam gear. I have not got the car tuned. But recently the car is starting to smell like fuel when I punch it. How do I correct this? Would a FPR and gauge help, or shold I try ajusting my A/F ratio? Thank's any help would be aprreciated.

SikTeg

what u guyz think of skunk2 pro 1's?