$3500 is enough to boost a car, if you buy used parts and do the install yourself.

You can spend well over $3500 in parts alone if you buy a full-race/AFI/edelbrock turbo kit.

The h22's are 30lbs more than a B-series, which weighs more than a D-series. So a h22 is more than 30lbs more than a D-series.

For the money you're gunna spend, i'd build a budget b20vtec which can easily make around the same WHP/WTQ as a h22. I've seen several stock (and stock-ish) b20vtecs make like 180whp 140wtq. Even mildly built ones can make close to 200whp 150wtq. A b-series swap into an EK is easier to do, easier to maintain and easier to modify than h-series.

Not to mention H-series trannys are garbage in terms of gearing and their cable shifter linkages.

Don't waste your time even thinking about a K-series b/c you don't have $6000-8000 to do this swap. Besides $6000-8000 for 185whp 145wtq is **** IMO.

okay how about a b18c swap?

i have a 99 SI btw but i wanted to know what brackets i needed for the engine to fit (with AC and power steering)

also what can i do to this engine (other than turboing) to make it faster

a b18c (GSR) swap will run around $3500 after everything all said and done. They usually put down around 160whp 125wtq. You can add some bolt-ons and ITR camshafts and tuning to get some more power out of it.

You're wasting your time/money modding a d-series for more power unless you're boosting it. I know people have made 150whp out of n/a non-vtec d-series', but I'm pretty sure you don't want to tear your engine apart to change the pistons/cams/valvetrain.

so does anyone know what brackets I need and where to get them?

I wanna know where your hearing that a turbo d is gonna be unreliable? built right you'll be better off then a H22. and handle better. go with a B if your not gonna turbo. H's are crap. they are heavy pigs that are over hyped garbage. you'll ruin your car and then then when you blow the motor racing you'll have to put in a new H because your car won't take anything else without a lot of work and you can't over bore one. also building a mild turbo using new rods and pistons with some ARP head studs and a good tune is gonna be just as reliable as a N/A build. once you mod the internals of an engine your messing with the engineering Honda spent a TON of money on. So really if your gonna build it you can't say that reliability is a factor as to why you built your motor the way you did. also if by tracking your car you mean taking a corner the H is gonna plow your front end into the wall. If your going pure straigh then sure go for an H.

just one question, and sorry bout the long post but it's better then a double post (eh martin?) but you've got a thread going on here about building ab H and then another thread about a B tranny which are you doing? cuz I feel alot of us are wating our time giving you advice on a pipe dream if you not actually going to go H

if you want to go n/a the best would be b20vtec i have a built b20 in my car and i got a lil more than 220whp but to build mildly isnt that expensive you can find any b series head for cheap either b16 or if your really lucky b18c-r would be best in my opinion and a b20 long block goes for what 500$ you need a tranny which arent that expensive for a nice b16 tranny or better a gsr you get to use original mounts after you need an ecu some arp head studs some gaskets and call it a day

a lot less cheaper than a k and almost at the same whp...

I do want to go H but there are soo many negative comments about H both hear and at torontoprelude that I'm getting persuaded otherwise

The initial point of this thread was to get oppinions on both engines while being compared however I would have got my h series mounts by now but after reading this thread I'm thinking otherwise

I'm not chasing a pipe dream I have the money to do this swap right now it's all boiling down to which will give me less of a headache and which will give me the best outcome

if you want no headaches, enjoy driving a completely stock civic, modded cars can be a headache no matter whats done to them.

Whatever you do, DO NOT cheap out. Doing so will result in an unreliable car that doesn't perform how you want it to.

IMO...the only good things about h22's is if your going all out and doing an h2b swap and boosting the motor either than that a b series is pretty much stock and is really really reliable i have had my b20 for 2 years not once an issue and i drive it up north 4-5 times a year and go to the usa 1-2 times a year

people have told me b20's are good to mod but where can i buy them

and also from my quick research i dont believe there was a vtec b20?

agreed, veryy front heavy.

well compared to what it is stock and what it is after you go FI... ull understand & smile hahah

Just build your motor proper and tune proper and ull be good.. just dont keep raping it..

B20B 2.0 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1997 126hp@5400rpm 133tq@4300rpm '97-'98 CR-V (USA)

B20Z 2.0 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1997 146hp@6400rpm 143tq@4500rpm '98-'01 CR-V (USA)

Though i believe that the stock B20 head doesn't perform as well as the other mentioned above.

I'm happy to see that you changed your mind about the H22 and K20. i wanted to get the H22 swap too, got the B16 instead...Can't wait to boost!! The pros know their stuff.

Remember that when you have B-series mounts, any B-series motors will fit without modding the mounts....and there's something like 10 nice B motors to choose from.

ahah thanks guys but now im in an even bigger sh1t hole than before


ive been reading on sites that installing a b20 is ALOT of work and ALOT of parts needed

i gave kijiji a quick skim and found a b20 block with a b16a2 head for 1500

however, people have been saying that there are alot of parts needed like axles, intake manifolds to make it fit under.

if this is true is this swap really worth it?

im not cheapening out but i wanted this whole swap done by june or may

can someone post up exactly EVERY part i need for this swap and approximately how much it is? and where to get it?

The greatest write up ever everything is there and you can now start to price out parts and see how much the grand total is going to be.......


How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec - Honda-Tech

arp rod bolts 75
ARP Head Studs 135
HEAD GASKET GENUINE 52
ACL Main & Rod Bearing 120
piston rings?
valve seals 20
water pump 30
timing belt 130
oil pump 90
magnetic oil drain plug 5
NGK V-power R5671A-8 13
Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator ?

this is all brand new ebay materials and not including shipping

i'd also need a block and if i paid someone to do it for me i'd be up into 3000 for sure

tiger japanese is selling a b20b long block for 430 so after that all i'll need is a complete tranny and a mounting+bracket kit and obd conversion harness to put it in right?

B20Z 2.0 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1997 146hp@6400rpm 143tq@4500rpm '98-'01 CR-V (USA)

The B20Z does not have VTEC

Hes right.

And just to give you an example of what kind of numbers you can expect. This is my buddys engine we built a year a'go.
-B20
-crower stage 1 cams
-Skunk2 cn gears
-Blox IM
-I/H/E
-adj regulator
-55 shot dry NOS kit with bottle heater

The engine put down 139.00hp+122.49tq
with the bottle 209.69hp+199.30tq

Its in a 91 ed, so it pulls pretty good especially on the bottle.

does your friend want to do anything else to the motor?

Its staying that way.
Hes got an EG with a sohc turbo that he drives all so.