B16 and h22a
 

hey guys

I Just wanted to know what I'd need to do to a b16a2 or a GSR to make it at par or better than an h22?

Trying to stay away from turbos and preferrably mods that won't break my wallet

Looking for a daily driver preferrably 220 hp 160 ft/lb

in terms of power, u will never extract more power out of a stock bore 16 or c1 without forced induction.....its impossible. the 22 is .6L bigger than the 16 and .4 bigger than the c1. displacement wins hands down. this is my boys g23 graph. good luck making this kind of power without f.i. frig, most k's having problem making these numbers and this motor is in a dd, not a drag car. Zman & Gord Bush FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/953...h22dynotx3.jpg[/url]

first of all h22's don't make 220hp and 160ft/lbs

its more like 170-180whp 140-150wtq

stock b16s put down around 130-145whp 95-105wtq

stock gsrs put down around 150-160whp 115-125wtq

you'll never get the torque of a 2.2L out of a 1.6-1.8L but with the right bolt ons and maybe some ITR cams and tuning a GSR can put down 175whp 130wtq or so.

this is what I consistantly see on a dynojet 248x

I'm talking about jdm engines I think the h22 type s pushes 220 and 164 but I think jdm h22a pushes roughly 190 hp and 156 ft/lb

So if I did basic mods ( cams, pistons, intake) I can never attain the h series' power

If so why is the h22a swap so uncommon? They're roughly the same costwise to put in?

Bengali - Zeeman's talking wheel horse power and wheel torque. So basically what the engines put out at the wheels after power lose through engine/tranny etc.. Not what the engine actually produces.

H22s are uncommon for several reasons... Firstly I think because the B series engines are much easier to put into civics.. I've done complete B installs in several hours it's so friggin easy.

H22s also require physical body modifications that are permanent:

Cutting out the shifter area metal and cutting off part of the passenger side engine mount. So in the end, once you go H, you can't really go back.

Lastly I believe it's also because of how big the motor is in a civic bay, it's very difficult to work on the car after the fact. IE - if your master brake cylinder dies, you will need to remove the H22 engine before you can take out the cylinder.. Many things will be much more difficult to do with the H22 in there..

I remember my H22 had literally a cm clearance on both left and right sides.. Less than a cm on the front (clutch slave cylinder was almost touching the fan blades...) and maybe an inch or so in the back to the nearest obstacle.

Personally I still love and miss my old H22 EG.. That thing was so much fun to drive, much more fun than I've had with stock GSR motors.

N/A will cost more, just bolt on a turbo kit and your done.

Ahh kk gotcha

I'm not going to turbo so popping in the h22 is the best solution for me cuz I get the power I want stock

I can afford to maintain it so it's good but seeing as how I'm getting this swap done soon into my ek I wanted to know how long it takes to put it in ( is it under a day?)

Also does anyone know of how I can use my stock d16y8 AC compressor? ( like what bracket is good or can I use my one and integrate the bracket?)

I've heard enough times that the H22 will set off the balance of your car.

my car is already off balance cuz i have subs in my trunk but even if i didnt the H22 adds 30 pounds to my front end which doesnt really affect anything

it adds a lot more than 30 pounds.

As far as I know you can't keep the A/C when doing the h22 swap (but I could be wrong).

ya it all depends on the mounts but if you really break the bank you can have ac but you have to get really good mounts and a new bracket

i dont know for sure but i think its easier for people to use their stcok d series AC compressor than the H series' one

but ya there was a thread somewhere where they actually compared the weight between the H series and the B series (i think they used a GSR) and the H series was only 30 pounds more

that 30lbs or what ever it is also sits farther forward of the front axle that's why it makes such a huge difference. If I were you trying to make 200+ hp on a budget. I'd say do what I'm and a few others around here are doing, cuz we're also looking for ~200hp and on the cheap. just boost the motor you have. find a next d-series and build that up over the year and next summer put in a built and boosted d, it won't take much to make a d hold that and still be a DD.

i did consider that before but i did a bit more research and theres alot of work involved in turboing a d (oil leaks, an arm and a leg if anything goes wrong) so i wanted to stay away from turbo's

also to get a full turbo set up and have it installed would be more than an engine swap and i've always loved the H series one of my cousins in new york has an EG with this swap and i LOVE it (i wasnt driving the car but this car picked up FAST)

ok so for what ol_dusty and bengali548 are trying to achieve, how much do you guys plan on spending to get this result?

What do you need the 220hp for?
Have you been in a car with a B series engine before?
Everyone on here seems to think they are slow has hell!

im spending 3500 all said and done

theyre not slow but i know that im not going to do much to my engine (like turbo charging etc.) so i find spending around 2500-3000 dollars for +43-53 hp +10-15 ft/lb (this is theoretical stats no base)

while the H series is 200 hp 160 (theory)

random question

what do you guys think would be the best swap option for my EK?

i wont boost but i dont mind building

what set up would would beat an h22 in a 1/4 mile

with a stock h22 in my ek ill be running mid 14's

1. K-swap
2. You can build your current engine for boost on a budget?
3. K-swap or turbo b or d.
4. I would hope so.

You say you have $3500, why not just build your car for boost??
Vitara combo and turbo would still be cheaper then a swap and make more HP. A 240 hp sohc for a DD is pretty fun and realiable when done right. Just something to think about. I personally have seen way to many engine demons in the H.

ya i considered your idea before but the thing is that turbo'ing (after research) burns alot of oil and tends to break easily and that theres alot of work involved.

also the engine i have now is a bit messed up theres a bucking problem that i assume is the engine mounts but id rather have the engine gone than to fix it

and 3500 isnt enough for a turbo installed and tuned turbo's even if i built my own turbo id still be paying out my a55