bnorris1986

I just bought a 1986 Civic Wagon 1.5L FWD (automatic) and was wondering what are the best cheap modifications I can make to this vehicle to have it running really nice. I don't want it for racing or anything like that. Maybe just a little added horsepower, better gas mileage and maybe some pointers on getting it riding a little smoother. Is there a throttle body I can get that I can put on without having to get an intake manifold? What is the best air intake system for this model? What kind of cam to get? Etc... Any help and direction would be much appreciated.

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

First off, AWESOME platform to start with. I love wagovans, but isn't that carb'd not EFI? If so you might wanna look into either a more modern swap and EFI conversion, or better and what I'd do (only a suggestion I'm not gonna cry if you don't) Is a better set of carbs. Now Webber's are kinda expensive. A custom manifold (chop your stock one, and port it) is cheap, then toss a set of bike carbs from something high revving and about 1000cc's like R1's can easily be jetted to supply more then enough fuel for a motor like yours.

I used to be the proud owner of an 87 CRX, very similar to your Civic. I'm not 100% about the differences under the hood but I'm sure they're very similar. A D16A1 from a first gen integra should be the easiest motor swap, tho unless you somehow found a JDM one, it'll be EFI. Tho that'd be a HUGE power increase without having to get into custom mounts. This motor would also leave the possibility of preferably swapping the trans, but not completely necessary. Leaving out one bolt and taping one of the holes in the trans to bolt the starter to it instead of the motor, would allow you to retain the original trans (again I'm kinda goin on some fuzzy memories and basically the same chassis)

You could fit carb's on that motor, again webber or bike carbs and make some decent power.

I hate to say it, but really without tuning/jetting the carb, you're not gonna make any real power gains you'll notice. Swapping exhaust and maybe a better filter is about all you can do and that's still not gonna get you a whole lot.

This chassis while sweet is kinda expensive to mod. You have a couple options if you wanna lower it.

1. cheapout, cut the rear coils down a little and adjust the front torsion bars as low as they'll go or take them out and file off the key way and put them back in lower then stock.

This option will get you the look, but handle horribly.

2 for around $12-1300 The Tien mid-evil pro suspension kit is amazing. Meant for 1G CRX's and 3G Civics it should still do a great job on your wagon.

This option is best, but expansive and may be hard to get. I don't know when the last batch was made, but they only really make them in small amounts to order, usually in group buys for redpepperracing.com a site you really need to check out. Guys there know so much they'll make my inputs seem half useless.

Pics of it as it is?

bnorris1986

I really just want to do basic stuff like I said. No swap or any of that. I'm pretty sure this car has a fuel injected 1.5 Liter. I know its 1.5l 16 valve for sure. I don't want to lower it or anything like that. Whatever I can do to make it handle and ride better and whatever I can do to the stock 1.5 to help improve performance a little without going over the top in cost. Small stuff like cold air intake, pullets, cams, intake manifold, throttle body. What mm throttle body to get? Do these parts last as long as OEM or longer? I want a dependable every day driver with a little ummph to it.

bnorris1986

Here is a photo.

bnorris1986

I just did some research and I believe its a D15B2 engine.

Found in: 1988–1991 Honda Civic GL/DX/LX
1988–1991 Honda Civic Wagon Wagovan/DX
1988–1991 Honda CRX DX
1992–1995 Honda Civic LSi Hatch/Saloon (European Market)
1992–1995 Honda Civic DXi Hatch/Saloon (European Market)
1990–1995 Honda Concerto (European Market) Displacement: 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke: 75 mm × 84.5 mm (3.0 in × 3.33 in)
Rod Length: 134 mm
Compression: 9.2:1
Power: 92 hp (** kW) at 6,000 rpm (US)
90 PS (66 kW) at 6,000 rpm (Europe)[11]
Torque: 88 lb·ft (12.2 kg/m, 119 Nm) at 4,700 rpm
Valvetrain: SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
Cam Gear: 38 tooth
Piston Code: PM3
Fuel Control: OBD-O DPFI and OBD-1 MPFI
Redline: 6,500 rpm, 7,200 rpm rev limiter
Head Code: PM5
ECU Code: PM5/P04

What small but effective modifications can I make to this engine?

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

This is what confused me.

Your's is EFI. I didn't catch that you had an 89, and accidentally put 86 in the post.

I'm not 100% about your motor compared to other D series, but don't go too big with the TB, you'll lose bottom end if you go much bigger then stock. An intake and filter will help a little along with a decent exhaust system, again don't go too big or you'll lose more then you gain.

Short of a swap, which the one I was on about won't work. You're not gonna gain a whole lot. Tho given the chassis you have way better options as far as just swapping out your motor and then buying a D16z6/D15b VTEC for like $400 and then a conversion harness and ECU for another $150ish and drop that right in.

bnorris1986

What all parts do I need to buy for the Mini Me Swap on a D15b2?

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

Mini me swap is technically keeping your block and swapping the head.

If you get a complete D series VTEC motor, with an ECU (for an auto in your case, which you may need a complete swap with trans, I've never done this with an auto before) then really all you need to go with the motor should be a conversion harness for the ECU, and run a couple wires thru the firewall for the VTEC solenoid and pressure switch and then ground a third wire. Your car may have the MAP sensor on the firewall, keep that and leave the one on the new motor unhooked. Then run the vacuum line from the old MAP to the new sensor. There may be a coolant sensor as well that might need the wires to be lengthened and run to a new location as well.

Sounds like a lot but really as long as you search out the wiring diagrams and go into it with a plan it's not that bad.

bnorris1986

When you swap the head on the mini me do you need to swap ecu too because of vtec?

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

swapping the ecu with an obd1 conversion harness is the easier way to do it. Certain older obd 0 ecu's can be chipped and/or run the moates demon to tune with software like neptune to run the motor. Your ecu might run the new motor, but not to it's potential, without vtec and possible not long term reliably. Really for less then $200 the proper ecu and harness would be a good investment in the swap. I don't know what if any tuning software for obd1 honda's can really work with an auto ecu, so I'd recommend finding a complete swap from an auto 92-95 civic Si. You should be able to basically drop that in. Just might need to mix and match from the mounts to get the right combo that works for your car.