So i got HID's for my civic.....
#1
So i got HID's for my civic.....
I recently purchased a McCulloch 5400K HID hi/low kit for my 99 Honda Civic. I was told that i would get the best light output between 4000k and 6000k output. My questions/concerns are as follows:
1. Where should i mount the ballasts and ignitors?
2. I hear they need to be somewhat far from the headlights
because they really get hot. (true or false)
3. I want to make it theft proof (well at least somewhat theft
proof) keeping that in mind, where is a good place to mount
the ballasts/ignitors where they are not in plain sight?
4. Unrelated, but is there a way i can fabricate some sort of
locking system where when the hood is opened, you have to
manually unlock a separate locking mechanism (i.e. beside the
hood latch) with a key for example. Just to increase increase
the difficulty of popping the hood to unarm/disarm the alarm.
5. Any other precautions that I need to take with the HID bulbs
in order to ensure that they work for years to come?
I might be too concerned about this, but unfortunately security MUST be a concern when doing any sort of modification to your car. It's rediculous that we have to purchase alarm, extra sirens, proximity sensors, etc., but that's just the reality we face.
Any comments or suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
1. Where should i mount the ballasts and ignitors?
2. I hear they need to be somewhat far from the headlights
because they really get hot. (true or false)
3. I want to make it theft proof (well at least somewhat theft
proof) keeping that in mind, where is a good place to mount
the ballasts/ignitors where they are not in plain sight?
4. Unrelated, but is there a way i can fabricate some sort of
locking system where when the hood is opened, you have to
manually unlock a separate locking mechanism (i.e. beside the
hood latch) with a key for example. Just to increase increase
the difficulty of popping the hood to unarm/disarm the alarm.
5. Any other precautions that I need to take with the HID bulbs
in order to ensure that they work for years to come?
I might be too concerned about this, but unfortunately security MUST be a concern when doing any sort of modification to your car. It's rediculous that we have to purchase alarm, extra sirens, proximity sensors, etc., but that's just the reality we face.
Any comments or suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
#2
I had the 6000K kit for a while...
1. indside fenders
2. false
3. see 1.
4. no
5. don't **** with them... once you turn them on, leave them on... don't flash them on/off, don't be an idiot with them basically... use them as lights are meant to be used and you'll be fine. also follow the burn-in procedure. finally, I would disconnect your DRL or at least rewire them to your corner lights.
1. indside fenders
2. false
3. see 1.
4. no
5. don't **** with them... once you turn them on, leave them on... don't flash them on/off, don't be an idiot with them basically... use them as lights are meant to be used and you'll be fine. also follow the burn-in procedure. finally, I would disconnect your DRL or at least rewire them to your corner lights.
#7
yeah, there is a DRL fuse somewhere... since I have H4s, the DRL was on the high-beam and my kit didn't have high beams so the DRLs were automatically moot. But since you say you got the hi/lo kit, then it'd be best to disconnect the DRLs.
#14
alright, they are up and running. THEY ARE SO FRIGGEN BRIGHT. NO BULBS WILL MEASURE UP NO MATTER WHICH ONES YOU GET. HID IS THE WAY TO GO One more thing for people wanting to do this upgrade, swap the fuses for the low beams to 25amps. also in my car, you can pull the fuses for the DRL module and the DRL relay. I did both for good measure.
#17
i have everything fully operational and i would like to apologize for the misinformation above. With a HIGH LOW kit, you can still keep your DRL's because on the HIGH LOW kit, there is a small bulb attached for the highbeam (bulb is right beside the HID bulb, but is much smaller) which is NOT an HID bulb so that should be wired to teh H4 connector as a normal highbeam should.
In the h4 connector, the top horizontal slot is the positive connection for the low beam (that would go to positive lead on teh ballast), the right vertical slot is the ground for BOTH the highbeam and the lowbeam, the left vertical slot is the positive connection for the HIGHBEAM/DRL bulb (same bulb)
The DRL bulb that is along side the HID bulb on the H4 base, is very small and the light output is slightly compromised, but it's a DRL bulb so who cares. You should be happy that you have DRL's and HID from your OEM civic Headlights so you will not be hasseled.
In conclusion, no need to remove the DRL or lose the DRL when you have a high-low HID conversion kit. You would only lose your DRL with a regular LO kit with no highbeam bulb to use for DRL's.
In the h4 connector, the top horizontal slot is the positive connection for the low beam (that would go to positive lead on teh ballast), the right vertical slot is the ground for BOTH the highbeam and the lowbeam, the left vertical slot is the positive connection for the HIGHBEAM/DRL bulb (same bulb)
The DRL bulb that is along side the HID bulb on the H4 base, is very small and the light output is slightly compromised, but it's a DRL bulb so who cares. You should be happy that you have DRL's and HID from your OEM civic Headlights so you will not be hasseled.
In conclusion, no need to remove the DRL or lose the DRL when you have a high-low HID conversion kit. You would only lose your DRL with a regular LO kit with no highbeam bulb to use for DRL's.
#19
as for question 4 there is somet hing you can do...
a friend of mine has alot invested under the hood....
about 30 000
so he has a system that uses steel braided wire that is connected to a mount i believe... that only allows it to spool out to open the hood when certain things are done.. i .e a switch is on.. or the key is in the ignition ... or the lights are on.. ect.. i'll ask him what he bought and i can do a write up about it when i have time
a friend of mine has alot invested under the hood....
about 30 000
so he has a system that uses steel braided wire that is connected to a mount i believe... that only allows it to spool out to open the hood when certain things are done.. i .e a switch is on.. or the key is in the ignition ... or the lights are on.. ect.. i'll ask him what he bought and i can do a write up about it when i have time