NoSpleeny

Oh... and to append to my previous post... I'm @ 190 km on this tank of gas and I've used 40% of it... Therefore.. I should be able to squeeze 475 km out of this tank... but my fuel gauge is never correct.. so I'll never know..

When I change gears @ 3000 rpm and coast @ about 2000 rpm or so... I get about 420-430 out of a tank...

I wanna see if this low revving **** actually saves gas... my car accelerates slow as ever when I change gears under 2000 rpm.

Even those Fireflys and Geo Metros are accelerating faster than me.

Whiplash

yers is the one i was referring to pal...

T-Shirt Ninja

Prolly, But I betcha those frieflys and metros are redlining to do so lol

AzimuthX

So you redline the vehicle couple times after every oil changes?
If it was on auto, would driving on the 407 with OD off in 3RD gear be considered to work?


NoSpleeny: Its like a bike, if you start off with a high gear during acceleration, you are very slow and causing load on the engine (or the rider itself). So what the Import Dictionary meant I think is that the best time to shift is 3000-3200.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

NoSpleeny, yeah, like AzimuthX explaines, it's like starting a bike in top gear, it's hard on the knees, same with the engine....there is a high load.

AzimuthX, WOT in an auto car will result in a redline shift...that's good enough every once in a while....I don't recommend highway driving at high rpm as the tranny may overheat, which is an instant killer of auto trannies.

SiVeloz and SedanBoy, you speak of rust on a new car...that's a cryin shame if it's true. However, if you park your car anywhere around an industrial area or anywhere where metal is uses, it actually may be pollution that is collecting in crevices. I have a bit of it, and I was freakin out, but then I noticed most of it on my back bumper - plastic??? so I reasearched it a bit, and it turns out it's fallout from the Ford engine casting plant here in Windsor. Ford pays for their employees to have their cars professionally detailed every year because of this. Us regular folk are **** out of luck, so we gotta do it ourselves. Looks like little spots of rust on most horizontal surfaces of the car, like the roof, trunk lid, bumpers...hood. However, it's normal for welds to show some rust after some time, but it seems too soon. I noticed real rust on my bumper support (metal under the pretty plastic), but again, that's normal.

imported_Joker

How about parking your car? I heard it's better to park outside is this true. I always park in the garage. But does this afect the life of the car? What about parts that are better than OEm, Aftermarket stuff, is that bad. Example KYB AGX v.s stock shocks

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Park the car in a garage in the winter after driving it and you are just speeding up rusting. Rust is most effective at between -4 to 4 Celsius. All other times, inside is better than outside. The sun causes various rubber parts on the exterior to crack and fade. Also, if you get your car indoors before the salt is out there, and leave it there...that's good too.

Aftermarket parts can be good and bad. Shocks = good, springs would be bad. Reason being is that the shocks dampen action and actually aid the car in better ride control. Springs w/o proper dampning actually accelerate the wheel more up and down than the car was designed for. Heavy wheels = bad, light wheels = good. ECU chip on a bolt on only Honda is bad too...and other things like that...

imported_Joker

So parking in the garage during winter is bad?

imported_My Blue Si

It also helps a lot to wash the salt off your car during the winter

imported_pktrkt

changing gears under 2000rpm will also put extra stress on your clutch....

AzimuthX

bbarbulo or someone else: What does WOT mean?

Agent_Red

Wide Open Trottle

AzimuthX

Once in a while... does that mean before the oilchange (I suppose flush out the engine) or after the oilchange. Gotta love i-VTEC growling with hard accelerations.

imported_gatherer

running yellows will not extend your engine life....who told you that crap??? as for saving gas .. if your that cheap don't get a car!!! if you can stop you should thats what the yellow is there for ... it's also there so that the cars going straight see it and stop (if they have time) and the cars in the intersection turning left can then clear out... a yellow light DOES NOT MEAN HIT THE GAS HARDER YOUR NOT GOING TO MAKE IT... it means stay out of the intersection if you have time to stop (which isn't that big a distance if your doing the limit) and if your in the intersection it means get out as safely as possible.....damn man I want to be the guy marking your G1 test I'd fail you based on this ...never mine if you passed the required number to get the G1 I'd just do it ... yellow light running is a hugh problem in toronto and is terribly out of control in scarborough I wish cops would start ticketing these people that have ample time to slow down and yet fail to do so.... I understand yellow lights is a judgement call .... but smarten up and use good judgement... the decision to stop or proceed is based on whether you can stop successfully or not ... not whether or not your going to knock a mile or two off your engines life ... and it's not whether or not your going to save gas....

if the light is yellow and you have the distance to stop then do so!!!!

Gatherer

AzimuthX

Yes I know running yellow is a bad thing, the number one cause of T-BONE accidents that lead to fatal deaths. It was a sarcastic comment <- me. You should always drive safe with caution, its just that the point I have is your causing wear on the engine by idling 3-4 minutes, Joker asked how to preserve a honda, didn't say safely .

imported_Joker

AS for parking in the garage during winter, I get a weekly car wash so there is not much salt on the car. Will that make a difference?

h_accordexr

make it scream at 8000RPM

NoSpleeny

I drive a 2002 Civic LX Sedan... my car redlines @ 6750. Ya right.. I'm not even going to make 8000. The tachometer goes to 8500 but no way it's going to get there.

The highest I managed to get before the rev limiter kicked in was 7200.

imported_gatherer

could some one explain to me how having an engine idle at a red light reduces how long it lives for ... I'm sorry for keeping this going ... But I just don't get it man .. 3 to 4 minutes at a light idling I don't think will shorten the cars life span.... it makes no sense someone explain it too me ... in very detailed this is what's happening inside the engine thats killing the lifespan of the engine terms... thanks...

AzimuthX

When you idle, engine is at 800-1200 RPM, this mean the engine is working to prevent it from stalling. This causes wear on the engine as if you were driving it, now imagine how many idles you do a day times how many days you drive times 10 years, now thats alot of wear on the engine.